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兩岸曉風(fēng)頔塘綠

2020-12-08 02:07吳永祥
文化交流 2020年11期
關(guān)鍵詞:吳興南潯湖州

吳永祥

荻塘因唐代湖州刺史于頔曾加以修筑,故又名頔塘。它西起湖州城東之二里橋,東至江蘇省平望鶯脰湖,與京杭運(yùn)河相連。

煙火人村盛,川途客旅稠

浙江湖州自古以來是著名的江南水鄉(xiāng),北有太湖,境內(nèi)有東、西苕溪穿境而過,區(qū)域內(nèi)河網(wǎng)密布。因此,可以說水是湖州的命脈,也是湖州的靈魂。

在眾多的湖州河流中,有一條河已靜靜地流淌了一千多年,她就是頔(dí)塘(原名荻塘)。頔塘既是一條河的稱謂,也是一項(xiàng)水利工程的名字。

歷來文人,吟詠頗多

“當(dāng)年于頔刺湖州,曾筑長(zhǎng)堤捍逆流。兩岸曉風(fēng)楊柳綠,王孫得意騁驊騮?!边@是明代詩人俞睦寫的一首關(guān)于千年水利工程頔塘的詩。但頔塘歷史悠久,早在東晉時(shí)代便已存在。

據(jù)北宋《太平寰宇記》引南朝宋山謙之的《吳興記》,荻塘之筑,在東晉時(shí),由當(dāng)時(shí)的吳興太守殷康所開,并又記載該塘“西引霅溪,東達(dá)平望官河”。另據(jù)《潯溪文獻(xiàn)》,荻塘因唐代湖州刺史于頔曾加以修筑,故又名頔塘。

如今的頔塘是浙江省重要航道長(zhǎng)湖申線的重要組成部分,它西起湖州城東之二里橋,東至江蘇省平望鶯脰湖,與京杭運(yùn)河相連,在浙江省境內(nèi)約34公里,流經(jīng)湖州境內(nèi)吳興區(qū)八里店鎮(zhèn)、織里鎮(zhèn)和南潯區(qū)舊館鎮(zhèn)、雙林鎮(zhèn)、南潯鎮(zhèn)。

如果從太湖溇港水利工程體系這個(gè)角度看,頔塘則屬于溇港水利工程體系中“縱溇橫塘”的“橫塘”之一,塘與溇水系相通。

頔塘是“兩堤夾一河”的水利工程,其最早建設(shè)時(shí),主要出于灌溉的需要。按史料記載,殷太守開鑿荻塘,可“旁溉田千頃”。后隨著溇港水利工程體系的完善,頔塘的主要功能便是抵御洪水、圩田排灌和通航了。

對(duì)于頔塘(荻塘)的功用,歷來文人吟詠之詩詞頗多。如唐代詩僧皎然與李令從有荻塘聯(lián)句,詩云:“畫舸悠悠荻塘路,真僧與我相隨去。寒花似菊不知名,霜葉如楓是何樹。倦客經(jīng)秋夜共歸,情多語盡明相顧。遙城候騎來仍少,傍嶺哀猿發(fā)無數(shù)。心閑清凈得禪寂,興逸縱橫問章句。蟲聲切切草間悲,螢影紛紛月前度。撩亂云峰好賦詩,嬋娟水月堪為喻。與君出處本不同,從此還依舊山住?!薄爱嬼从朴戚短谅贰币痪浼词菍?duì)頔塘航運(yùn)功能的生動(dòng)描寫。進(jìn)入民國(guó)后,頔塘上更是輪船不斷,如《重建吳興城東頔塘記》中即記載道:“輪船則經(jīng)年累月,晝夜不分。”

宋人沈與求的《舟過荻塘》則云:“野航春入荻芽塘,遠(yuǎn)意相傳接渺茫。落日一篙桃葉浪,薰風(fēng)十里藕花香。河回遽失青山曲,菱老難容碧草芳。村北村南歌自答,懸知?dú)q事到金穰。”

沈詩從蘆荻、荻塘、夕陽、碧波、荷香、村歌入手,在描寫舟過頔塘看到之景色的同時(shí),寄托了其歸隱之意。

此詩還用了一個(gè)小典故,典故的主人就是曾任吳興太守的王獻(xiàn)之。傳說他有愛妾名桃葉,一天,桃葉渡江北去,獻(xiàn)之歌以送之?!疤胰~復(fù)桃葉,渡江不用楫。但渡無所苦,我自迎接汝。”這就是“桃葉浪”一名的由來。沈之詩中是借用,以指落日余輝映照下的波浪。

又如清代的范鍇也有一首詩寫頔塘,詩云:“暮霞初起日西銜,峴弁遙空涌翠巖。無限離情愁望遠(yuǎn),荻塘波景送春帆?!?/p>

頔塘水利工程自創(chuàng)建以來,歷代皆有修筑。據(jù)乾隆《震澤縣志》載,北宋治平三年(公元1066年)吳江知縣孫覺曾大修境內(nèi)的荻(頔)塘,并疊石為岸,這恐怕是荻(頔)塘最早使用石材來筑堤岸的記錄了。中華人民共和國(guó)建立前,湖州地區(qū)曾有兩次修筑頔塘,一次發(fā)生在20世紀(jì)20年代,一次發(fā)生在20世紀(jì)40年代末。據(jù)民國(guó)時(shí)期的《浙西水利議事會(huì)年刊》《重建吳興城東頔塘記》碑文等資料可知,20世紀(jì)20年代的那次修筑,規(guī)模大、花費(fèi)巨。修筑過程中也是不斷克服困難,歷時(shí)近5年始成。本次修筑,計(jì)花費(fèi)銀幣823700余元。

中華人民共和國(guó)建立后,頔塘作為水利和水運(yùn)航道,又經(jīng)過多次修建。最近一次修建是2007年啟動(dòng)的,頔塘作為長(zhǎng)湖申航道(浙江段)的主要組成部分,整體納入了長(zhǎng)湖申航道(浙江段)擴(kuò)建工程。工程已于2018年1月完成竣工驗(yàn)收。

聚財(cái)匯市,繁榮一方

頔塘因與京杭大運(yùn)河相通,故而在促進(jìn)湖州經(jīng)濟(jì)社會(huì)發(fā)展方面貢獻(xiàn)巨大。比如,頔塘在糧食運(yùn)輸方面就發(fā)揮了重要作用,朱國(guó)禎《修東塘記》(東塘即頔塘)中即云:“自東門盡潯水,凡七十里,履畝而隄,漕道出焉,管一州六邑之口?!?/p>

而又由于頔塘在圩田灌排方面的作用,有效促進(jìn)了塘兩岸的農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn),對(duì)當(dāng)?shù)亟?jīng)濟(jì)的進(jìn)一步繁榮起到了積極的作用。南宋衛(wèi)宗武《過荻塘》詩中就有“煙火人村盛,川途客旅稠”“綿絡(luò)廬相接,膏腴稼倍收”之句。

而自宋以來,湖州境內(nèi)的頔塘兩岸,也逐步形成了一些經(jīng)濟(jì)繁榮、文化發(fā)達(dá)、人才輩出的市鎮(zhèn),其中以晟舍鎮(zhèn)(現(xiàn)屬于吳興區(qū)織里鎮(zhèn))、南潯鎮(zhèn)(今屬于南潯區(qū)南潯鎮(zhèn))為典型代表。

頔塘邊的晟舍鎮(zhèn),主要繁榮于明清時(shí)期,并以文化、教育見長(zhǎng),其中凌閔兩氏之彩色套印書籍聞名于世,其代表人物則是中國(guó)文學(xué)史上的著名小說家、“三言二拍”中“二拍”的作者凌濛初。晟舍閔氏則以教育有方、科甲興盛、代有顯宦而成當(dāng)?shù)赝?,如明代閔家出了閔珪、閔如霖、閔夢(mèng)得、閔洪學(xué)四位尚書,清代閔家出了官至巡撫的閔鶚元。如今晟舍鎮(zhèn)已經(jīng)不復(fù)存在,代之而起并名揚(yáng)天下的則是頔塘邊的織里鎮(zhèn),有名的中國(guó)童裝之城。

在明清,晟舍鎮(zhèn)出版業(yè)發(fā)達(dá)的時(shí)候,販書業(yè)也很興盛,大量書船通過走頔塘、上運(yùn)河,將書販至鎮(zhèn)江、杭州、海寧等地。

南潯鎮(zhèn)的繁榮也得益于頔塘,可以說南潯因頔塘而生,因頔塘而興。特別是鴉片戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)后,南潯憑借蠶桑業(yè)與手工繅絲業(yè)發(fā)達(dá)的優(yōu)勢(shì),借助上海開埠的機(jī)會(huì)和頔塘便利的水運(yùn)條件,經(jīng)濟(jì)進(jìn)入高速發(fā)展時(shí)期,鎮(zhèn)上也逐步形成了在中國(guó)近代史上影響深遠(yuǎn)的絲商群體。正如劉大均在《吳興農(nóng)村經(jīng)濟(jì)》稱:“南潯以絲商起家者,其家財(cái)之大小,一隨資本之多寡及經(jīng)手人關(guān)系之親疏以為斷。所謂‘四象、八牛、七十二狗者,皆資本雄厚,或自為絲通事,或有近親為絲通事者。財(cái)產(chǎn)達(dá)千萬兩白銀以上者,稱之曰‘象;五百萬兩白銀以上不過千萬者,稱之曰‘牛;其在百萬兩白銀以上不達(dá)五百萬者,則譬之曰‘狗”。

頔塘也是湖絲走出浙江、走向中國(guó)、揚(yáng)名世界的重要通道。1851年,在英國(guó)倫敦舉辦的首屆世界博覽會(huì)上,“榮記湖絲”就獲得了由英國(guó)維多利亞女王親自頒發(fā)的金獎(jiǎng)和銀獎(jiǎng)。1915年,在巴拿馬萬博會(huì)上,“輯里湖絲”獲得金獎(jiǎng)。同時(shí),中西文化也在南潯交匯,如今南潯鎮(zhèn)上仍留有劉氏梯號(hào)、張石銘舊宅等中西合璧的建筑。

在南潯,至今仍留有一段頔塘故道,而這段故道也已作為中國(guó)大運(yùn)河的一部分而被納入世界文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。這段頔塘故道從南潯鎮(zhèn)西柵祇園寺舊址向東穿越古鎮(zhèn),出東柵分水墩進(jìn)入江蘇省境內(nèi),約長(zhǎng)1.6公里,是頔塘沿線至今保存最為完好的一段明清時(shí)期的古河道。

治水安民,代有賢人

頔塘這項(xiàng)千年水利工程,之所以至今仍在發(fā)揮著航運(yùn)、排灌等作用,與湖州地區(qū)歷代治水人的努力是分不開的。創(chuàng)建頔塘水利工程的首位治水人是東晉時(shí)的吳興太守殷康。據(jù)《湖州農(nóng)業(yè)史》之記述,殷康于東晉永和年間(公元345年至公元356年)在吳興筑荻塘。對(duì)于殷康的事跡,史書記載不多。但從《資治通鑒》中對(duì)他參與討伐叛軍的記載看,殷康當(dāng)是一個(gè)敢于擔(dān)當(dāng)、雷厲風(fēng)行的官員。

又如,唐代的于頔。他是頔塘建設(shè)史上的關(guān)鍵人物。據(jù)筆者綜合《晝上人集》《唐刺史考全編》《吳興金石記》等諸多材料考證,于頔于唐貞元七年(公元791年)至貞元十年(公元794年)任湖州刺史。于頔對(duì)荻塘的修筑,因有功于地方,民感其德,遂改荻塘名“頔塘”。正如當(dāng)代湖州作家徐建新在《頔塘賦》中所說:“民獨(dú)以頔命塘者,何哉?夫?yàn)楣僖蝗?,造福一方……所謂得天理、興水利、順民心是也。”

在于刺史之后,也有一些主政湖州的刺史修筑過荻塘。如薛戎,同治《湖州府志》載:薛戎“以廉直寬大為稱”,而“湖州最患人者,荻塘河水,瀦淤逼塞,不能負(fù)舟”,而薛戎“濬之百余里”。

明代的陳幼學(xué)也是頔塘建設(shè)史上的重要人物。萬歷三十六年(1608年),湖州知府陳幼學(xué)修頔塘,“甃以青石、尤為堅(jiān)固”。南潯人朱國(guó)禎特作《修東塘記》(頔塘當(dāng)時(shí)也叫東塘),記云:“潯水之利害,界以塘、甃以石,中間支派曲折至多,最巨者東塘。自東門盡潯水,凡七十里,履畝而隄,漕道出焉,管一州六邑之口。故潯雖鎮(zhèn),一都會(huì)也。自潯而上雖名塘,實(shí)馳道也,內(nèi)護(hù)田廬千萬。戊申歲,大水,風(fēng)沖波激,存者無幾。太守陳公于是修東塘,凡費(fèi)一千五百余金。塘成,父老列三德以頌:曰傭工,曰保障,曰利涉。我湖田疇,旱干水溢之無恙也。七十里屹如亙?nèi)纾煌煤诲X一粒,則公之功大矣?!睆挠浳目梢姡愑讓W(xué)對(duì)頔塘的修筑貢獻(xiàn)很大。

20世紀(jì)20年代那次頔塘的大修,有一個(gè)重要人物必須提及,此人就是南潯富商、著名收藏家龐元濟(jì)。龐元濟(jì),字萊臣,南潯人。父龐云鏳為南潯鎮(zhèn)巨富,“四象”之一。在那次頔塘修建過程中,龐元濟(jì)不僅參與發(fā)起修塘倡議,還積極捐資以助建設(shè)。此外,他還對(duì)修塘之材料提出了自己的建議:“全用石,不如兼用水泥之黏且固。所謂水泥,即今通用之粵廠水門汀也,泥石交融,固黏不解,既無私移之弊,亦無松動(dòng)之虞?!笨梢?,20世紀(jì)20年代對(duì)頔塘的修筑,已采用了當(dāng)時(shí)的新材料水泥。

Ditang River: More than 1,000 Years

By Wu Yongxiang

The Ditang River is one of numerous rivers that form a network of irrigation and navigation in Huzhou in northern Zhejiang. In history, Ditang was both a water-control project and a canal.

The water-control project was first built essentially for irrigation by Yin Kang, the governor of Wuxing in the Eastern Jin (317-420), according to a historical book written in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). It doubled as a canal designed and built to connect two other rivers. In the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the canal was upgraded by Yu Di (?-818), the governor of Huzhou from 791-794. Di in the name Ditang refers to the given name of Yu Di. Tang in Chinese refers to dyke or embankment. In the south of the Yangtze River Delta, many rivers have “tang” in their names, suggesting they are canals.

It was and still is part of a bigger irrigation and water-control system around the Taihu Lake. Today, it functions mainly as a canal, starting at Erliqiao east of downtown Huzhou and reaches the Beijing-Hangzhou Canal in Jiangsu Province to the north. Today, the Ditang River stretches about 34 kilometers in Zhejiang.

The project by Huzhou Governor Yu Di was probably the first large-scale official maintenance of the irrigation and water-control watercourse. History says there were many other maintenance and upgrade projects to keep the canal in function. Xue Rong (?-821), a Huzhou Governor in the Tang Dynasty, had Ditang dredged for navigation, according to a history book written in the 19th century. In 1066, Wuxian County magistrate Sun Jue had stone embankments built on two sides along the section within the county. It was the first stone embankment recorded in history. In 1608, Huzhou Governor Chen Youxue had Ditang repaired. Thirty-five kilometers of the riverbanks were shored up with flagstones.

In the first half of the 20th century, Huzhou City did two canal renovation projects. One occurred in the 1920s and the other in the late 1940s. According to written texts and the inscription on a stone stele (It is a tradition in ancient China to set up a stone stele to mark a large-scale project) in Wuxing County, the canal renovation project took nearly 5 years and 823,700 silver dollars to complete. Since the birth of the Peoples Republic of China in 1949, more canal renovation projects have been carried out. The last one started in 2007 and concluded in 2018. The Ditang River is now part of the 160-km canal that starts at Changxing in Zhejiang, via Huzhou in Zhejiang, then traverses the southern tip of Jiangsu Province and reaches Shanghai. The section in Zhejiang is about 95 kilometers long.

In history, towns and villages along Ditang flourished essentially because it connected with the Grand Canal. The canal contributed to the economic and social growth of Huzhou. As the canal doubled as an irrigation system, agriculture boomed. The canal gave birth to many towns in the Song Dynasty (960-1279). Most typical of these towns are Chengshe Town (present-day Zhili Town of Wuxing District, Huzhou City) and Nanxun Town (present-day Nanxun Town, Nanxun District of Huzhou). Chengshe flourished in the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911) thanks to its printing industry. Books printed in the town were shipped to Hangzhou, Zhenjiang and Haining through the canal system that connected Jiangnan. The town was also famed for producing scholars. Some became government ministers. Some became writers. Today, Zhili is a powerhouse of producing childrens clothes.

Nanxun is best known for its place in the history of silk export to the world. Through the canal, silkworm farmers shipped their products to Shanghai. Silk businesspeople from town exported raw silk to overseas buyers. Through the business, they amassed huge fortune. In words often seen in modern business literature, Nanxun alone produced 84 multi-millionaires back in the 19th century, if local legends are to be believed. Many of them had their garden houses built in town. Some houses have remained and are the biggest attraction of local tourism. The town boasts a 1.6-km section of the ancient Ditang Canal that functioned in the Ming and the Qing.

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