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冰雪佩茵山

2005-04-29 00:44:03趙秀明
世界文化 2005年1期
關鍵詞:直響肩背道道

趙秀明

肩背雪鞋,我走在明媚的晨光中,只覺周身寒氣陣陣,凜凜襲人。不過,此處小住數日,會讓人為之漸生敬意,因為這寒冷中透著幾分清爽。你瞧,空氣如此干爽舒適,清新宜人,每吸一口氣,濕潤的鼻孔就如凈化過一般愜意。我迎著空中簌簌飛舞的雪花,走在一條清掃過的白色小道上。那是五天前用鹽融化過的,而殘雪已結成了冰。只聽見腳下軋軋作響,如同踩在干爽的玉米屑上。寒風刮起,猶如磨刀一般霍霍直響,伴隨著那山谷深處傳來的陣陣狗叫聲,似乎也就在腳后。氣從鼻孔呼出,就像一股揮之不去的幽靈,籠罩在眼前。我步履艱難地走著,眼前的道道炊煙,如白色的旗桿,又如地上的冰柱,直立在村中。就連風也如同凝固一般。晴空下的村莊,披著著一層淡淡的薄霧,任那村中陣陣暖流也似難以掀開。那藍藍的天空,明澈如鏡。不過,那些氣喘或有心臟病的患者卻不能享受這一美景。

走出家門十分鐘,我便套上雪鞋,開始了一天的雪山之行。寒冷干爽的雪地上,雖然還依稀點綴著熊的腳印,而我每走一步,仍要深深地陷進雪里去。迎著陽光,眼前濺起金碎玉屑般的雪粒。我蹣跚而行,猶如那駛向天際的一艘破舊航船。

A Winter Day on Paine Mountain

I walk out of my house, snowshoes over my shoulder, into brilliant morning, into the kind of cold that, if you've lived here a while, you've learned to respect. This cold smells clean, like line-dried sheets, and glues the moist sides of your nostrils together at each intake. Snow squeaks in such cold. Walking down the plowed lane(white, for salt the past five days hasn't melted snow, which compresses toward ice), I hear my boots crunching packages of cornflakes. This cold hones each sound like a knife. The sharp dog yap up-valley seems at my heels. The ghost slipping out of my mouth looms up before my face. I trudge on through it. Smoke from our village chimneys stands straight up, dozens of white, un-wavering shafts, icicles lengthening from the land. Wind itself is frozen solid. A lens of haze hovers over the village this shining day, the steam of the town's warm living that can't break through the lid of cold. But the rest of the sky is eye-catching blue. Those who have asthma or heart trouble don't walk out.

Ten minutes from my door, I strap on the snowshoes and be-gin a day's trek in the mountains. The snow, so cold, is dry, and even with the modified bear paws, I sink in a foot at each step. Diamond dust swirls up before me in the sun. I wallow across the tilted snowfield, an old freighter churning out toward the horizon.

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