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鮮辣常山

2021-09-06 05:31徐露路
文化交流 2021年7期
關(guān)鍵詞:胡柚常山猴頭菇

徐露路

據(jù)史料記載,辣椒原產(chǎn)于中南美洲熱帶地區(qū),原產(chǎn)國是墨西哥。公元15世紀(jì)至16世紀(jì),歐洲的航海家們陸續(xù)開辟新航路,發(fā)現(xiàn)了美洲新大陸,使得原生于美洲大陸的辣椒傳入世界其他地區(qū)。16世紀(jì)末,中國正處于開放海禁的明代后期(隆慶至萬歷年間),與歐洲商人的貿(mào)易使得辣椒經(jīng)海路進(jìn)入中國,并從東南沿海逐步向西北、西南內(nèi)陸輸送傳播。

辣椒最早傳入中國的時(shí)候并不是用來吃的,而是用來觀賞的。清乾隆年間,辣椒最早作為一種蔬菜被中國人食用,國內(nèi)普遍開始吃辣椒則是在道光以后。

我們知道,川之辣,在麻;湘之辣,在烈;鄂之辣,在干;贛之辣,在香;云貴之辣,在酸;東北之辣,在辛。而常山之辣,主要在鮮。浙江常山是中國鮮辣文化的發(fā)祥地。這鮮,鮮在一方好山好水賜予的新鮮優(yōu)質(zhì)食材,鮮在千年古縣世代相傳的獨(dú)特調(diào)味佐料,鮮在這方水土祖輩傳承的烹飪技術(shù)。多年來,以“鮮辣”為特色的常山將軍魚等“十大碗”享有盛名,深受各地賓朋喜愛。

Chili peppers were originally produced in the tropical regions of Central and South America, with Mexico as its country of origin. From the 15th to the 16th centuries, European navigators opened up new routes one after another and discovered the New World of America, and chili peppers were thus spread from the American continent to other parts of the world. At the end of the 16th century, chili peppers were able to enter China by sea, reaching the southeast coast before further spreading to the inland areas in the northwest and southwest.

When chili peppers were first introduced to China, they were a feast only for the eyes. During Emperor Qianlongs reign (r. 1736-1796), they began to be consumed as a vegetable, and it was after Daoguangs reign (r. 1821-1850) that chili peppers became a common food in China.

Chinese spiciness is known to have different shades. Sichuan spicy flavor accentuates a numbing spiciness. Hunans is strong, Hubeis dry, and Jiangxis fragrant. The spiciness of Yunnan and Guizhou is more of a sour kind, and that of the northeast China is pungent. While for Changshan, its spiciness features freshness, which comes from good ingredients, unique seasoning spices and perfect cooking skills. Over the years, "fresh and spicy" characterizes "ten big bowls", classical Changshan dishes loved by people from all over the world.

將軍魚

General Fish

將軍魚也叫軍魚,是一種生長在淡水里的清水魚,生存于水流較急、水色清澈的江河中,對(duì)水質(zhì)要求比較高。錢江源源頭何家鄉(xiāng)長風(fēng)一帶,山清水秀,風(fēng)景如畫,是“將軍魚”主要生產(chǎn)河段。

General fish, also called military fish, is a kind fish that lives in clear, fresh water. This species survives in rivers with rapid currents and has high requirements for water quality. At the source of Qianjiang River, a village called Changfeng is known as the main water body home to the general fish.

定陽猴頭菇

Dingyang Lions Mane Mushroom

常山是“中國食用菌之鄉(xiāng)”,猴頭菇更是食用菌中的“一寶”。猴頭菇是四大山珍之一,不但營養(yǎng)價(jià)值高、味道鮮美,還有藥用價(jià)值,對(duì)慢性胃炎等多種消化道疾病均有較好療效。常山猴頭菇聞名國內(nèi)外,朵小型美,質(zhì)地細(xì)嫩、風(fēng)味獨(dú)特。

Changshan is the hometown of Chinese edible mushrooms, and lions mane mushroom is one of the edible treasures. As one of Changshans four signature dishes, it is tender, tasteful, nutritious, and also has medicinal value, good for curing digestive ailments.

球川豆腐干

Qiuchuan Tofu

南宋官吏、詩人、散文家汪應(yīng)辰從小就住在球川的外婆家,最愛吃的便是清鮮柔嫩的清燉豆腐。他說,球川豆腐用古井的水、山地的豆、祖?zhèn)鞯姆绞帜ゼ庸ざ桑诟屑?xì)膩綿滑,百嘗不厭。2008年,球川豆腐傳統(tǒng)制作工藝被列入衢州市非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)保護(hù)名錄。

Wang Yingchen, a Southern Song (1127-1279) official, poet and essayist, lived in his grandmothers house in Qiuchuan since he was a child. His favorite food was the fresh and tender stewed tofu. Qiuchaun tofu, according to him, was made from well water and mountain soy beans in an old-fashion way, which gave it a smooth and silky texture. In 2008, the traditional processing techniques of Qiuchuan tofu was included in the Quzhou Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

龍繞泥鰍煲

Longrao Loach Pot

龍繞土地肥沃,雨水充沛,溝渠、塘堰、水田等軟泥多的水體淺水區(qū),繁殖棲息著大量泥鰍。龍繞泥鰍特征明顯,體小細(xì)長,并且這一帶黃泥地多,受泥質(zhì)影響,泥鰍背部呈現(xiàn)淡黃色。

The fertile land and abundant rainfall in Longrao, especially the shallow water areas with soft mud, provides a perfect inhabit for loaches. Longrao loaches have distinctive characteristics: small and slender in shape with a light-yellow back, which is the result of their living beside the yellow mud.

三衢進(jìn)士面

Sanqu Jinshi Noodles

三衢進(jìn)士面,又稱“旦旦面”,是常山農(nóng)家歷史久遠(yuǎn)的特色菜,其烹飪方法簡單,幾乎家家戶戶都會(huì)做。取名三衢進(jìn)士面,寓意學(xué)業(yè)有成,這一面名還與北宋淳化年間官至吏部尚書、集賢殿學(xué)士的汪韶有關(guān)。汪韶是宋代常山的第一個(gè)進(jìn)士。

Sanqu Jinshi noodles, also known as Dandan noodles, is a traditional specialty of Changshan farming families, and its cooking method is so simple that almost every household can make it. The name “Sanqu Jinshi noodles” suggests success in studies. Legend has it that this special noodles have something to do with Wang Shao, the first jinshi (highest degree in Chinas imperial examinations) holder,? of Changshan in the Song dynasty(960-1279).

章舍金瓜醬

Zhangshe Golden Melon Paste

金瓜醬,又名醬豆糍,是常山農(nóng)村一道原汁原味的“生態(tài)干品”,主要用它當(dāng)下酒菜招待客人。金瓜醬歷史悠久,傳說與北宋進(jìn)士后官至秘閣校理、延康殿太學(xué)士的芙蓉章舍人王介一家有關(guān)。

Golden melon paste, also known as soy bean patties, is an original “ecological dry product” from the rural areas of Changshan. It is a snack served with wine for entertaining guests. It is said that this age-old golden melon paste is related to the family of Wang Jie, an official-scholar of the Northern Song dynasty(960-1127).

墨魚燉土雞

Cuttlefish Stewed with Local Chicken

常山農(nóng)村有一道專門給家中男子滋補(bǔ)的菜品,叫墨魚燉土雞。它是色香味俱全的浙西傳統(tǒng)名菜。土雞營養(yǎng)十分豐富。

Cuttlefish stewed with local chicken is a special dish in rural Changshan, and a nourishing food especially for the family men. It is a famous traditional dish in western Zhejiang province, rich in color, flavor, and nutrition.

菇鱔炒粉干

Fried Rice Noodles with Mushrooms and Eel Meat

常山粉干有近千年的歷史。早在北宋初年,常山的粉干家坊制作就遠(yuǎn)負(fù)盛名。常山粉干質(zhì)地柔韌富有彈性,水煮不糊湯,干炒不易斷,是大多數(shù)當(dāng)?shù)厝藧鄢缘拿朗场S霉谨X炒粉干,味道極其鮮美。

Fried rice noodles with mushrooms and eel meat have a history of nearly a thousand years. In early Northern Song dynasty, this dish was already well-known for being made in family workshops. Changshan rice noodles have a soft, elastic texture, and they do not get mushy in boiling or break easily in dry frying. They will become extra tasty when fried with mushrooms and eel meat.

柚皮炒羊肉

Stir-fried Lamb with Grapefruit Peel

冬吃羊肉賽人生,春夏秋食亦強(qiáng)身。常山是中國胡柚之鄉(xiāng)。冬季,是胡柚產(chǎn)銷的黃金季節(jié),在招賢、青石、東案一帶胡柚主產(chǎn)地,熱情好客的柚農(nóng)們會(huì)烹飪一道特色菜品,叫柚皮炒羊肉。

Lamb is a whole-some food all year round. Changshan is the hometown of grapefruit in China, and winter is the golden season for grapefruit harvest and marketing. In winter, the hospitable grapefruit farmers of Zhaoxian, Qingshi and Dongan counties often cook a special dish called stir-fried lamb with grapefruit peel.

古縣蒸肉圓

Zhaoxian Steamed Meat Balls

招賢鎮(zhèn)自古以來人杰地靈、商賈云集,素有常山“東大門”之稱,更有千年古鎮(zhèn)之美譽(yù)。招賢有道家喻戶曉的名菜,就是蒸肉圓。它是一道味道香濃又寓意團(tuán)圓的菜品?!耙簧鳉⒄匈t柳,一生愛殺招賢酒?!彼未笤娙藯钊f里曾六過招賢,每次途經(jīng)招賢下館子,他都喜歡點(diǎn)上一道蒸肉圓,把酒作詩……

In ancient Zhaoxian county, there is a famous dish of steamed meat balls. It is a dish with a rich flavor that symbolizes reunion. Yang Wanli, a great poet of the Song dynasty, had visited Zhaoxian six times. Every time Yang went to a Zhaoxian restaurant, he liked to have the steamed meat balls and some wine while writing his poems.

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