By Anastasia Sukhoretskaya 譯/季晶晶

外國時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師在北京

Foreign fashion designers in Beijing

By Anastasia Sukhoretskaya 譯/季晶晶

卡特琳娜（中）與學(xué)生在工作間

老外們帶著勇氣和決心來到中國，而中國也為他們提供了一個(gè)可以發(fā)揮創(chuàng)造力和表達(dá)自我的平臺(tái)。兩位居住在北京的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師，來自俄羅斯的斯維特拉娜和來自羅馬尼亞的卡特琳娜，完美地演繹了成功的職業(yè)女性和獨(dú)一無二的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師兩種角色。

Many expats ventured into China, and China embraced them by offering a platform for creativity and self-expression. Two accomplished Beijing-based fashion designers, Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh from Russia and Catalina Calin from Romania pose a perfect example of successful businessladies and fashion design experts that are second to none.

今年44歲的斯維特拉娜15年前跟隨她在貨運(yùn)航空公司工作的俄羅斯丈夫移居北京。她曾在澳大利亞和英國學(xué)過設(shè)計(jì)，之后又來到北京進(jìn)入著名的萊福仕大學(xué)繼續(xù)攻讀設(shè)計(jì)專業(yè)的學(xué)士學(xué)位。萊福仕大學(xué)如今被稱作萊福仕學(xué)院，是一所總部在新加坡的著名服裝設(shè)計(jì)大學(xué)。順利完成學(xué)業(yè)后，她就留在這所大學(xué)里當(dāng)老師教設(shè)計(jì)，至今還在這里工作，她經(jīng)歷了大學(xué)的轉(zhuǎn)型期。正是在萊福仕，斯維特拉娜認(rèn)識(shí)了首次進(jìn)入公眾視線的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師卡特琳娜, 北京卡琳時(shí)尚學(xué)院 (www. catalinacalin.com)的創(chuàng)始人。當(dāng)時(shí)卡特琳娜也是萊福仕學(xué)院的教師之一。從孩童時(shí)代開始，卡特琳娜就喜歡設(shè)計(jì)，而她杰出的職業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)師生涯則是從羅馬尼亞的一所大學(xué)開始的。在那里，她專攻時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)并取得了時(shí)尚和視覺藝術(shù)專業(yè)碩士學(xué)位。之后，她曾在不同的跨國或本地的公司擔(dān)任時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師。2009年，應(yīng)萊福仕學(xué)院的邀請，她來到北京擔(dān)任時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)系講師，那時(shí)候她才27歲。在這里，她結(jié)識(shí)了斯維特拉娜和她未來的丈夫，以及同在這所大學(xué)里教室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)的來自哥倫比亞的教師杰米。在外籍人士的心目中，北京就是一個(gè)地球村。人們相遇，成為朋友，甚至戀愛結(jié)婚。杰米和卡特琳娜是知名國際交流組織InterNations 在北京的代表。他們負(fù)責(zé)組織在京的外籍人士參加聚會(huì)，讓他們的生活變得更加輕松和愉快。杰米和卡特琳娜會(huì)找到北京最棒的地方組織聚會(huì)活動(dòng)，每月至少兩次。我也經(jīng)常參與其中，并認(rèn)為對卡特琳娜來說，這的確是她學(xué)校工作之外一個(gè)很好的補(bǔ)充?！霸谶@里（北京）的日子很棒。當(dāng)然，雖然生活有起有落，但總體來說一切都很好。我們熱愛北京，也很享受在這里的日子?！?卡特琳娜如此說道。在2014年11月，她成立了以自己名字命名的設(shè)計(jì)學(xué)院卡琳時(shí)尚學(xué)院后，她與教學(xué)的聯(lián)系更緊密了。在我詢問學(xué)生情況時(shí)，她答說：“我們的第一個(gè)學(xué)生來自俄羅斯，那是一個(gè)非常有才華的女孩。我也有來自波蘭的學(xué)生。”除了外國學(xué)生，也有不少中國學(xué)生去她那里學(xué)習(xí)?，F(xiàn)在卡琳時(shí)尚學(xué)院提供以下課程：時(shí)尚插畫，主要介紹一些可以用于時(shí)尚插畫設(shè)計(jì)的媒體技術(shù)；創(chuàng)意立體裁剪和繪圖，重點(diǎn)向?qū)W生們傳授設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)新、時(shí)尚工作室、時(shí)尚作品集、造型和化妝方面的技巧和方法。課程由卡特琳娜和另兩位特約講師講授。

Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh, 44, relocated to Beijing 15 years ago, following her Russian husband who got a position in the cargo airlines company. She studied fashion design in Australia and Great Britain before she enrolled for the designing courses in renowned Raffles University in Beijing, now known as Raffles Academy, a Singapore based fashion design school, to get a bachelor’s degree in design. Having successfully completed her study, the university hired her as a teacher and she is still working there, having survived the times of university revamping and transformation. It was in the Raffles University where Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh and new-to-the-scene fashion designer Catalina Calin, the founder of “Calin Fashion Academy” (www.catalinacalin. com) of Beijing, first met each other. Catalina was also one of the teachers in Raffles Academy and according to her, she developed a taste in design long ago, in her childhood. Her outstanding career as a fashion designer took off atthe university in Romania, where she had majored in Fashion Design and took her Master in Fashion and Visual Arts. After that, she worked for different multi-national and local companies as a fashion designer. Catalina was only 27 year old when in 2009 she was invited to become a Fashion Design Lecturer in the mentioned Raffles Academy and got acquainted with both Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh and her future husband, Jamie Daza Medina from Columbia who was teaching interior design there. In our expat’s minds, Beijing is a global village where people meet, become friends or even fall in love and get married. Jamie and Catalina foster the meetings among expats by representing InterNations as ambassadors in Beijing. They are responsible for connecting the global minds in Beijing, and for making the life of expats easier and more enjoyable, organizing the GetTogether events, at least twice per month, in the best venues of Beijing. I also frequent these events, and personally think it serves a fine addition to the work Catalina is doing in her academy. “I had a wonderful experience here. Of course, we had our ups and downs, but still it was very nice. We still like Beijing a lot. We enjoy it.” says Catalina. Since establishing her own design academy under her name“Calin Fashion Academy” in November 2014, she is mostly tangled with teaching. “Our first student was from Russia, a very talented girl. And also from Poland.”adds Catalina to my follow-up question about the academy’s students. Apart from the foreign students, they have students from China as well. Now “Calin Fashion Academy”offers several courses: fashion illustration that introduces different media techniques that can be used for fashion illustration, creative draping and drafting with the focus on providing the students with the skills and techniques of producing creative designs, fashion workshop, fashion portfolio, fashion styling and makeup art with Catalina and two guest lecturers act as course teachers.

斯維特拉娜主要為外籍人士設(shè)計(jì)婚禮禮服和晚禮服，客戶都是一些高階層人士。有意思的是，卡特琳娜結(jié)婚時(shí)穿的禮服正是斯維特拉娜設(shè)計(jì)的。斯維特拉娜很享受在學(xué)校里教書，但是她自己也說：“時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)是一個(gè)迅速變化的產(chǎn)業(yè)，為了跟上它的步伐，僅僅做老師是不夠的，我還需要成為設(shè)計(jì)師和生產(chǎn)者。”斯維特拉娜說她有一個(gè)遺憾，那就是她無法像期望的那樣說上一口流利的中文。但是對于全身心投入設(shè)計(jì)的她來說，沒有時(shí)間學(xué)中文是完全可以理解的：“因?yàn)閷W(xué)院工作繁忙而沒有時(shí)間學(xué)中文讓我有一些遺憾，我仍然能感覺到語言障礙的存在?！辈贿^，斯維特拉娜喜歡在北京工作。不考慮語言障礙，她在北京能更容易獲得各種各樣的面料，選擇也更廣泛。要知道，在她的祖國90%的面料都是中國制造?；谠诒本?2年的教學(xué)實(shí)踐和5年的設(shè)計(jì)經(jīng)歷，斯維特拉娜開辦了面向俄語學(xué)生的在線課堂（fashionworkshop.ru）。她的學(xué)校提供一系列線下課程以及免費(fèi)的視頻課程,也會(huì)為完成學(xué)業(yè)的學(xué)生提供證書和文憑?！拔覍⒃谌R福仕學(xué)院的東西與我自己的設(shè)計(jì)經(jīng)歷相結(jié)合，最后在俄語學(xué)生授課時(shí)做適當(dāng)?shù)恼{(diào)整，結(jié)果令我十分驕傲。” 斯維特拉娜如此總結(jié)?！敖虒W(xué)方式分為兩種——線上和線下，這樣學(xué)生就能獲得及時(shí)反饋。”說到在線課程的優(yōu)勢，斯維特拉娜回答道：“在中國辦學(xué)校實(shí)在太困難，不僅受到中國法律的各種限制，語言障礙也是一大問題。此外，資金需求量也很龐大。相比之下，辦在線學(xué)校要簡單得多?！?/p>

Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh’s design focus is wedding and evening dresses, her works are expat-oriented and her clients are people of high status. Interesting enough, Svetlana designed a wedding dress for Catalina Calin when the latter was getting married. Svetlana is fond of teaching in the academy, but according to her words,“fashion design is a rapidly changing industry and in order to keep up with its pace, you need to be not only a teacher, but also a designer and a producer”. Svetlana says, there is one thing she regrets, that is she cannot speak Chinese fluently as she would like to. But due to her being one hundred percent devoted to the design industry it was understandable she did not have enough time for attending Chinese classes. Svetlana says: “I regret a bit that I did not have time to learn Chinese as we were so busy in the Academy, I still feel there is a language barrier. ”However, she likes the experience of working in Beijing as a fashion designer. In spite of the language differences, the access to the material is easier and the choice of fabric is broader than in her Motherland as 90% of all fabric is made in China. Having combined 12 years of teaching experience and 5 years of designing wedding and evening dresses in Beijing, Svetlana opened her own online school for Russian-speaking apprentices, fashionworkshop.ru. Her school offers a wide range of courses as well as free video lessons, and issues certificates and diplomas after the course completion. “I combined what I had learnt and taught in Raffles Academy and my own experience of clothes designing then adapted it to the Russian-speaking audience and came up with something that I am proud of. ”concludes Svetlana. “The teaching will be conducted in two formats - online and offline, so that the students can get a realtime feedback from our teachers and offline video classes”. On my question, what she thought about advantages of opening an online school, she replied:“It takes so much pain to open a school in China, as you need to regulate your work with the Chinese laws, and language barrier plays a part. Moreover, it is rather costly. Online school is easier to operate.”

工作中的斯維特拉娜

關(guān)于對中國學(xué)生的看法，斯維特拉娜和卡特琳娜都認(rèn)可中國學(xué)生的勤奮和積極?！爸袊膶W(xué)生聽課很認(rèn)真，他們渴望知識(shí)。老師是他們的向?qū)?。他們對時(shí)尚有自己的認(rèn)識(shí)，發(fā)展?jié)摿薮蟆Ｒ?，一旦中國人有了目?biāo)，就遲早會(huì)去實(shí)現(xiàn)它?！?斯維特拉娜如此評論道。這兩位職業(yè)女性都認(rèn)為中國的時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)正在蓬勃發(fā)展?！爸袊说脑O(shè)計(jì)正在變得更加時(shí)尚，更全球化，更流行，更優(yōu)雅。中國政府花費(fèi)了大量的時(shí)間和金錢在教育和學(xué)校上。中國的年輕人也比以前更熱衷于時(shí)尚。如今有越來越多的中國設(shè)計(jì)師非常有創(chuàng)意并且熱衷學(xué)習(xí)。他們中的很多人都曾出國留學(xué)，因此有了不同文化背景的經(jīng)歷，對世界也有了不一樣的認(rèn)識(shí)，他們更加開放?！笨ㄌ亓漳妊a(bǔ)充道。

About the Chinese students, both Svetlana and Catalina agreed that the Chinese students are very diligent and motivated. “The students from China listen to the teacher, they crave for knowledge. The teacher is their guide and master. The Chinese have their own way of seeing fashion, and they have a good potential for development. And if the Chinese people have the goal, they will reach it sooner or later.” commented Svetlana Zaytseva-Cheremnykh. Both ladiesprofessionals agreed that the Chinese fashion industry is developing. “The Chinese design is becoming more fashionably, more globalized, trendier, and more elegant. The Chinese spend a lot of time and money on education and schools. The young Chinese people are more interested in fashion than before. Now there are more and more Chinese designers who are very creative as they are willing to learn. So many of them study abroad, they have different cultural experience and different vision about the world of fashion and the society in general. They are more open.” added Catalina Calin.

兩位女士仍在繼續(xù)發(fā)展她們各自的品牌，期望在中國和國際舞臺(tái)上獲得更多關(guān)注和認(rèn)可。為了完美的設(shè)計(jì)，她們從各處搜集靈感：自然、電影、音樂、歷史，甚至在街上找不同國家或文化的人聊天。靈感無處不在。

Both ladies are in the process of developing their brands, making them more recognizable in China and abroad drawing inspiration for their wonderful design collections from everywhere: nature, movies, music, history, in the street, even talking to a person from a different country or culture. Inspiration can be found everywhere.