文|Tersina Shieh 編、譯|張?zhí)裎?/p>

勃艮第葡萄酒協(xié)會(huì)（簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)：BIVB）會(huì)定期在城中舉辦大師班，但他們大部分時(shí)候都在主推霞多麗和黑皮諾這兩個(gè)有名的葡萄品種。正因如此，當(dāng)?shù)弥衲晔讉€(gè)BIVB大師班以“深度解析阿里高特葡萄”為主題時(shí)，才會(huì)讓人如此驚喜。說(shuō)實(shí)話(huà)，這真的太棒了！

Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) organises regular masterclasses in town but most of them are focused on their famed grape varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.Therefore, the fact that the first BIVB masterclass this year was‘An in-depth analysis of the Aligoté grape’came as a surprise-in fact, a very nice surprise.

我敢肯定，并不是所有的勃艮第愛(ài)好者都聽(tīng)說(shuō)過(guò)阿里高特。自17世紀(jì)以來(lái)，這個(gè)葡萄品種就在勃艮第安家落戶(hù)，但直到1937年它才獲得了屬于自己的AOC—勃艮第阿里高特AOC。1997年，布澤宏（譯者按：唯一允許使用阿里高特釀酒的村莊級(jí)法定產(chǎn)區(qū)，且產(chǎn)區(qū)內(nèi)也只允許種植該葡萄品種）成為村莊級(jí)法定產(chǎn)區(qū)。盡管勃艮第的種植面積很大，自北部的夏布利延伸至南部的馬貢產(chǎn)區(qū)，但阿里高特的種植面積僅占6%。這個(gè)葡萄品種曾經(jīng)和霞多麗有同樣的地位，但令人遺憾的是，在經(jīng)歷根瘤蚜蟲(chóng)災(zāi)害后，果農(nóng)們放棄了阿里高特，選擇了（在短期內(nèi)）更容易釀出好品質(zhì)葡萄酒的霞多麗。

用阿里高特釀出的葡萄酒很微妙，有活潑的酸度和礦物氣息，這種葡萄酒能升華食物的美味而非蠻橫地爭(zhēng)當(dāng)“主角”。它的酒體結(jié)構(gòu)和細(xì)膩感讓我聯(lián)想到獵人谷的賽美蓉。許多人一開(kāi)始或許會(huì)因?yàn)樗鼈儾幌裣级帑惢蜷L(zhǎng)相思那么“嫵媚”而將其拒之門(mén)外，但如果你愿意花時(shí)間去等待的話(huà)，就一定會(huì)得到回報(bào)。艾薇（Ivy）就很樂(lè)意與人們分享一款18歲高齡的阿里高特葡萄酒，這款酒帶有層層的異國(guó)香料的氣息，可口而輕盈。

如今有不少葡萄品種名聲欠佳，尤其是中性葡萄，這并不是因?yàn)樗鼈儾幌衿渫废敌值芙忝媚前銑Z目，而是由于葡萄農(nóng)和釀酒師把它們視作“老黃牛”，將產(chǎn)量最大化，用來(lái)蒸餾或釀造毫無(wú)特色的葡萄酒。如果給予它們得當(dāng)?shù)钠咸褕@管理，這些葡萄品種的質(zhì)感與配餐的靈活度則可以彌補(bǔ)它們?nèi)狈φT人香氣的缺點(diǎn)。以阿里高特為例，它主要用于釀造基爾酒和勃艮第起泡酒，并在今年的大師班上脫穎而出。這些葡萄酒是由少數(shù)用心、嚴(yán)肅對(duì)待這種葡萄的釀酒師釀造而成。

在眾多的釀酒葡萄中仍有不少弱勢(shì)群體，特別是愛(ài)倫、白皮諾和米勒-土高。愛(ài)倫是西班牙種植最廣泛的葡萄，主要用于蒸餾或釀造平庸的葡萄酒，但我喝過(guò)一些表現(xiàn)不錯(cuò)、挑戰(zhàn)這條準(zhǔn)則的酒款，比如來(lái)自拉曼恰產(chǎn)區(qū)馬斯特維諾酒莊（Más Que Vinos）的愛(ài)倫葡萄酒。白皮諾基本上是一種百搭的餐酒，德國(guó)正以威斯堡格德（德國(guó)的白皮諾）的名義領(lǐng)導(dǎo)其復(fù)興之路。復(fù)興者之中就包括巴登產(chǎn)區(qū)的施蒂格勒酒莊（Weingut Stigler），酒莊釀造的依瑞恩溫克樂(lè)堡特級(jí)葡萄園白皮諾干白葡萄酒來(lái)自其最古老的地塊，這款葡萄酒適合各式各樣的粵菜，從蝦餃到烤乳豬都可以完美搭配。

至于米勒-土高（在德國(guó)叫做黎凡納），它主要生長(zhǎng)在涼爽的產(chǎn)區(qū)，比如德國(guó)、英國(guó)和意大利北部。這個(gè)葡萄品種在1882年由雷司令和古德?tīng)栯s交而成，目的是為了培育出比雷司令更早熟，產(chǎn)量更大的葡萄。如你所料，釀出來(lái)的葡萄酒通?？诟泄训５蚁嘈?，這只丑小鴨總有一天會(huì)實(shí)現(xiàn)華麗的變身。我釀造的第一款酒就是米勒-土高，使用了4種不同的酵母進(jìn)行發(fā)酵，這也是我在普蘭頓酒莊的最后一個(gè)項(xiàng)目。現(xiàn)在，我仍然保留著其中的2瓶酒，等時(shí)機(jī)成熟時(shí)就會(huì)開(kāi)瓶享用。

I’m pretty sure that not all Burgundy fans heard of Aligoté.The grape has been grown in the region since 17th century and was granted its own AOC, Bourgogne Aligoté, in 1937.In 1997, Bouzeron was recognised as its village appellation.Despite its large growing area in Burgundy from Chablis in the north to Maconnais in the south, it only has 6% of the planting.It used to have equal footing with Chardonnay but sadly after phylloxera,vinegrowers ditched Aligoté for the more accessible Chardonnay.

Aligoté is subtle with lively acidity and a mineral note, a wine in the background that supports food rather than taking the centre stage.Its texture and subtlety reminded me of Semillon from Hunter Valley.Most people may dismiss them at first sip because they are not as pretty as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, but you will be rewarded especially if you have the patience to wait.Ivy was very kind to share an18 years old Aligoté which has layers of exotic spices and a savoury yet light palate.A lot of grapes, especially those neutral ones, suffer from poor reputation not because they don’t shine like their more glamorous siblings but because vinegrowers and winemakers treat them like work horse grapes, maximising their yield for distillation or making characterless wine.However, given proper management in the vineyards, the lack the attractive aromas of these varieties is often more than compensated by its texture and flexibility to match with food.Take Aligoté for example, mainly used for Kir and Cremant de Bourgogne, spoke out in this masterclass.The wines presented were made by the few dedicated winemakers who take the variety seriously.

There are still many underdogs in the wine world, notably Airén, Pinot Bianco (or Pinot Blanc) and Müller Thurgau.Airén is the most widely planted grapes in Spain mainly destined for distillation or mediocre wine, but I did try a couple including Más Que Vinos in La Mancha that defy the norm.Pinot Bianco is pretty much an inoffensive house wine but Germany is leading the way to revive it under the name of Wiessburgunder (Pinot Blanc in German).Weingut Stigler in Baden, amongst others, produces a Weissburgunder Trocken, Ihringen Winklerberg "GG'' from its oldest Weissburgunder plot.The wine was wonderful with a wide spectrum of Cantonese dishes from shrimp dumpling to roasted suckling pig.As for Müller Thurgau (also known as Rivaner in Germany) mainly grown in cooler regions such as Germany, England and Northern Italy, is a cross between Riesling and Gutedel created in 1882 to produce earlier ripening and bigger crop than Riesling.As you can imagine, the wine is often light and unassuming.But I have faith that this ugly duckling will one day be transformed.The first wine I made was Müller Thurgau fermented in four different yeasts for my final project at Plumpton.I still have two bottles with me and am waiting for a suitable occasion to open them.