鄢子和

以溫泉、有機茶聞名的浙江中部的山區(qū)小縣武義，連接著錢塘江、甌江兩大水系。峰巒峽谷中密布的古村落，融合有上山文化和畬鄉(xiāng)文化，因此而形成獨立單元的民宿——隨園、一水間、青楓谷、梁家山、云上、古梅莊、陽春山居、一草堂等聲名遠播。

出縣城，從唐風溫泉走起，穿過清水灣沁溫泉和賽車場，快要到可以渺渺茫茫遙望歷史云霧的嶺下湯的石梁架屋，有武義江上游支流菊溪流淌不息。這里，挨著路邊有個婺州窯遺址叫“碗鋪”。小山村只有200多人口，古樸的泥土房屋和卵石夾雜石板鋪地的巷弄錯錯落落，村沿后山就是知名民宿隨園的所在。

隨園依偎山腳而上，遠遠看去，小木屋營造的客房就像壘筑樹叢的鳥巢，但如果將之形容為陶碗，恐怕更貼切。目前，開放的客房取名曰“采菊”“東籬”“悠然”“南山”“歸去”“來兮”等，讓人想見陶淵明的田園風致。這幾間客房營業(yè)沒幾個月，就被微信群“上海吃貨”盯上了，他們呼朋引伴輪番上山，使隨園應(yīng)接不暇。但主人戴俊夫婦不急于過度擴張，只想再在山腰的水磨坊平臺開發(fā)一間“桃源”。

上下隨園有垂直的步行道，山腰則有彎曲的山道連接。住在山下的民宿，倚坐窗前，聽山泉潺潺而下、水潭水溝里田雞石蛙呱呱鳴叫，然后可以去書屋撿一本童話書，就能進入夢境。住在山頂?shù)拿袼?，透過亮瓦，看流星消失，想往事劃過，于是可以去自助廚房，在石桌石椅吃宵夜。

廣州美院學藝術(shù)設(shè)計出身的戴俊說，種果園是他的主業(yè)，民宿僅是副業(yè)，因此，隨園只要做好“限額版”民宿足矣，客人住不下，歡迎他們自帶帳篷棲息水磨坊下面的草坪過夜。戴俊是個愛闖蕩的盛年書生，曾在北京、上海、廣州等地做過20多年各種酒店的室內(nèi)裝潢設(shè)計，及至倦游歸來，便在老家山坡營建起自己的理想田園。他承包了300多畝山地，種植樹莓、藍莓、櫻桃、金橘等20多款四時水果，其中的主角是樹莓，種有200多畝。

不太清楚武義的文學傳統(tǒng)，但多年來這里童話創(chuàng)作的氛圍已然形成。聽說縣里要打造“中國童話之鄉(xiāng)”，并計劃從包括湯湯書屋在內(nèi)的新興的璟園到嶺下湯之間建一條“童話走廊”；作為武義童話作家湯湯的粉絲，戴俊就產(chǎn)生念頭把自己的農(nóng)家樂改成具有童話示范意義的民宿——隨園?，F(xiàn)在，隨園已與臺灣童話村“青蛙爸爸”接洽，戴俊想把童話嫁接古婺窯火，讓隨園成為青蛙王子和青蛙公主的獨立自由的王國。

循武義母親河熟溪至上游，民宿一水間系搬移古建筑而立建，客房臨水，岸邊草木叢中螢火蟲閃閃。它的經(jīng)營風生水起：美食餐廳、茶吧與農(nóng)家書屋配套組合，稻浪金黃的田塍上有瑜伽秀和選美、影視拍攝等活動，增添了文化民宿的名氣。一水間所在地的大公山，是金華上山文化遺址代表之一，游客體驗民俗農(nóng)活時，拿起鋤頭掘地，一不小心就會掘出新石器時代的石球、石棒等陶器碎片和稻谷化石。

過柳城西溪橋不遠，有個叫“車門”的畬族村寨，傍著水庫和山谷，周邊白水瀑布、牛頭山脈和十里荷花風光誘人。村寨里開辦10多年的山莊青楓谷，是全省知名的農(nóng)家樂，近些年改為民宿。主人曾琳燒得一手好菜，又能因地制宜設(shè)計風格獨特的客房。一條流水的山谷坡地上，建了一排古色古香的建筑，除了大床房、標準房，還設(shè)計了綠皮火車的上下鋪。住在青楓谷，是游覽武義風景、領(lǐng)略畬鄉(xiāng)風情的好地方，森林公園、佛教寺廟、荷田勝景、山溪風光，環(huán)列四周；聽畬族土語、看畬族服裝、賞畬族歌舞，給人難忘的印象。

拐向大溪口鄉(xiāng)、三港鄉(xiāng)方向，那里有不少空殼的古村落，如今成了集中開發(fā)民宿的好地方。甌江上游深邃的群山中有生態(tài)民宿取名“梁家山”，這整村搬遷而來的民宿，毗連小黃山景區(qū)和“中國傳統(tǒng)村落”山下鮑。位于海拔800米的梁家山，以一條溪澗把上百幢泥土房一分為二，開發(fā)出其中的49幢作民宿。這里以制作知名天下的葉法善道家豆腐的豆腐坊和利用深澗清泉的水碓坊，以及被古樹林簇擁著的道觀三元宮，為“風水”中軸線和幽美的人文身段。

梁家山被前山、后山擋住外面的世界，惟有黃鸝鳥的鳴叫忽高忽低地滑落，提醒大家尚有世事。上海游客方建安和裴福花老兩口，在梁家山住了一個星期還舍不得離開，說，這里的純樸原始很養(yǎng)生，質(zhì)量高，成本低，真是平民養(yǎng)老的好地方。目前，梁家山住滿了滬杭都市人。

陽春山居是新開發(fā)出來的民宿，正對俞源村口巨大的太極圖。俞源古村落是體驗中國傳統(tǒng)農(nóng)耕社會的國際性旅游及養(yǎng)生勝地，作家、藝術(shù)家到俞源創(chuàng)作首選陽春山居。一草堂是浙中知名藝術(shù)村平頭村的民宿，特點是文化人接待文化人，帶動周邊農(nóng)村的文化發(fā)展。

接地氣原生態(tài)文化民宿，成了武義生機勃勃的風景線。

（本文攝影：張建成）

Rural Inns in Wuyi

By Yan Zihe

As rural tourism booms across Zhejiang， Wuyi， a county of mountains and rivers in central Zhejiang， cuts a brilliant figure. The county boasts thermal spas and organic tea. And it connects with Qiantang River and Ou River， two major river systems in Zhejiang. In the valleys are ancient villages. There are about ten inns in Wuyi whose reputation spreads far and wide.

Suiyuan is probably the best known and most distinguished inn in Wuyi. It is located in Wanpu， a riverside village with a population of 200. The time-worn adobe houses and pebbled and flagstone roads in the village indicate a history of no radical changes. Suiyuan nestles against the foot of the hills. From afar， the small wooden cottages look like bird nests in trees. A few months after the inn became operational some gourmets from Shanghai noticed the inn. They soon arrived in waves and Suiyuan enjoyed brisk business. Dai Jun and his wife， however， are not in a hurry to expand the business.endprint

A graduate of art design， Dai Jun says that fruit farming is his major business and the inn operation is his sideline. He was in high-end internal decoration business for over 20 years in Beijing， Shanghai and Guangzhou. Tired of the outside world， he and his wife came back to his hometown. At present he operates a 20-hectare fruit farm in the hills near the village. The farm yields raspberry in large quantity as well as blueberry， cherry and cumquat.

Green Maple is a mountain resort that has been operating for over ten years. It is in a scenic village where a small compact community of ethnic people live. Near the village is a reservoir， a waterfall and hills. What is more， the village is also known for lotus flowers blooming for kilometers in the summer. Zen Lin is the owner of Green Maple. He is a great chef. In the past ten years， Green Maple attracted gourmets. In recent years， Zen has designed and developed a home inn on the bank of a bubbling stream on the hillside. Green Maple as a business flourishes partly because it conveniently sits at the gateway to a raft of tourism attractions scattered around. One can wander into forests， visit a Buddhism temple and lotus ponds， and explore the lifestyle of ethnic people， all in convenient neighborhoods. From Green Maple， one can visit many other ancient villages. As villagers have long since moved out to better convenient settlements， the vacated villages are now targets of investors for turning them into homes away homes for tourists.

Liangjiashan is another village deep in mountains and far away from anywhere. Flanked by high mountains， the village is near a scenic zone and Xiashanbao， a perfect specimen on a list of Traditional Villages of China. A stream valley divides the village of 100 adobe houses into two parts. The 49 have been turned into home inns. There is a famed tofu workshop and a mill that taps into the power of the stream in the valley. Another big attraction is a Taoist temple near the village. Liangjiashan is a favorite attraction for golden-aged urbanites from big cities such as Shanghai and Hangzhou. They love the peace and serenity of the village， the slow pace of life， and affordable living there.

Mid Spring Mountain Resort is a new property development opposite to Yuyuan Village， a huge tourist attraction which pulls in domestic and international tourists for the traditional agricultural lifestyle highlighted by the village. In other words， what makes Mid Spring Mountain Resort enjoy a brisk business is Yuyuan Village. Art students， artists and writers favor the resort. Thatched Cottage is a good village inn where artists love to stay as they come over to sketch around Pingtou Village， one of the best sketching destinations in central Zhejiang.endprint