一城山色,半城湖
濟(jì)南人的一天從一壺泉水開(kāi)始。用泉水泡開(kāi)一壺好茶,用泉水煮飯洗衣,在裊裊炊煙里看時(shí)光緩慢流逝。
Jinan people start their day with a nice cup of tea made from spring water. When dusk arrives, they gather along the springs and do their laundry and cooking while chatting with each other. Days gradually melt into nights, sinking into the ever gushing spring that feeds the entire city.
《畫中游》(攝影:徐金利)Voyage in a Painting (Photo by Xu Jinli)
Snowflakes-like willow catkins fall upon the Hundred Flower Pond every April四月的柳絮似雪花般紛飛,為百花洲換上純白春裝
Sons and Daughters of the Yellow River (Photo by Huang Haihong)《映日黃河》(攝影:王海虹)
There are more than 800 fresh water springs in Jinan, every one of them bursting ceaselessly into the rivers and lakes. Therefore, the city has been named the “City of Springs”. Qing Dynasty scholar Liu E described Jinan in his poem: “All families have their own share of the spring outside their door, and all households have a willow right in front of their gate.”
The springs have given Jinan a touch of tenderness. Unlike most provincial capitals in China, Jinan is surprisingly slow-paced. The locals like to spend their free time playing chess while drinking by the river or fly a kite at the Spring City Square. Time seems to slow down here.
As an ancient city with around 2,600 years of history, Jinan is a fair representative of Longshan civilization– a part of China's prehistoric culture. Jinan has maintained the ancient Qi Dynasty Great Wall. Its great cultural environment has also attracted many famous scholars and poets to travel or even settle here, such as philosopher Mo-tse and female poet Li Qingzhao.
Walking along the old streets in Jinan, you can have a full taste of its long history. Take Qushuiting Street for example, it used to be where the literati gathered to drink. They would sit either side a narrow channel, and then one of them would pour a cup of wine and place it on a tray and let it drift on the water. Whoever the tray stopped in front of had to down the wine then compose a poem extemporaneously.
Over the years, Jinan has developed culturally as well as economically. The year 1904 saw its great changes when the city opened up as a trading port at the start of Qing Dynasty. It was when a lot of renowned trading names came into being. Most of those the shops remain prosperous even until now; standing next to the contemporary western buildings, they jointly tell a story of the hundredyear-long history of Jinan.
濟(jì)南素有“泉城”之稱,城內(nèi)800多個(gè)泉眼日夜噴涌不息,無(wú)論春夏秋冬,泉水終年保持在18攝氏度左右,甘甜爽口。清朝劉鶚在《老殘游記》中如是描述濟(jì)南給他留下的印象:“家家泉水,戶戶垂楊?!?/p>
泉水造就了濟(jì)南溫潤(rùn)的氣質(zhì),這座北方的城市溫和得如同江浙一帶的南方城市。作為山東的省會(huì)城市,濟(jì)南的生活節(jié)奏卻很慢很慢。在濟(jì)南,到趵突泉茶社品茗賞泉,到大明湖泛舟閱荷,或者到泉城廣場(chǎng)放風(fēng)箏,一天的生活就這么過(guò)去。
這是一座擁有2600多年歷史的古城。濟(jì)南位于春秋時(shí)期齊國(guó)與魯國(guó)的交界地,融合了尚變通的齊文化和重傳統(tǒng)的魯文化。她是中國(guó)史前文化——龍山文化的發(fā)祥地,有唐代四大古剎之一的靈巖寺,保存著中國(guó)最古老的齊長(zhǎng)城遺址。濟(jì)南還誕生過(guò)許多文化名人,墨子、扁鵲、李清照、辛棄疾……都從濟(jì)南走出去,濟(jì)南的文化和風(fēng)光還吸引了無(wú)數(shù)的文人雅客來(lái)此生活游歷,趙孟頫留下了《鵲華秋色圖》,老舍寫下《濟(jì)南的春天》。
穿行在濟(jì)南的舊街老巷,迎面而來(lái)的是充滿歷史與文化的舊時(shí)官址和青石板街道。其中,曲水亭街的名字格外富有文化味道。每逢農(nóng)歷三月初三,舊時(shí)濟(jì)南的文人墨客齊聚于此街水亭邊,將滿上的酒觴放在托盤順流而下,托盤停在誰(shuí)人的位置,此人就得拿起酒杯一飲而盡,并吟詩(shī)一首?!短m亭集序》里“流觴曲水,列坐其次”的傳統(tǒng)在這條街一直流傳至清朝,這條街便以此為名。
深厚的文化傳統(tǒng)讓濟(jì)南人尊敬文化。濟(jì)南人喜歡叫別人“老師”,坐計(jì)程車、買菜、搭電梯、請(qǐng)路人拍照,“謝謝老師”的聲音不絕于耳??鬃釉唬喝诵校赜形?guī)熝?。?jì)南,是此句的真實(shí)寫照。
傳統(tǒng)的濟(jì)南文化在1904年有了新的變化,那一年濟(jì)南開(kāi)商阜,從此這座老城擁抱現(xiàn)代文明,中西文化在這里交融。到清末民初,濟(jì)南商阜已初具規(guī)模,商阜區(qū)四通八達(dá),一大批著名商號(hào)應(yīng)運(yùn)而生?!叭痱断椤薄昂隄?jì)堂”“阜成信花行”……百年商號(hào)今猶在,只是朱顏改。沿著商阜新區(qū)的經(jīng)二路由東向西,原德國(guó)駐濟(jì)南領(lǐng)事館、各商號(hào)門店在這片結(jié)合傳統(tǒng)濟(jì)南與西方近代風(fēng)格的建筑區(qū)靜靜佇立,向人們述說(shuō)近代濟(jì)南一百多年來(lái)的發(fā)展。歲月荏苒,經(jīng)歷過(guò)百年開(kāi)埠歷史的濟(jì)南,伴隨著濟(jì)南政府新印發(fā)的十大千億產(chǎn)業(yè)振興計(jì)劃,又在新征途上迎接新挑戰(zhàn)。
正如這座城市的泉水噴流不息,濟(jì)南城每天都在上演不同的精彩。青青的柳條拂過(guò)清泉流水,生活不曾留止。
"Youxuan", an onionflavoured crispy snack蔥香四溢、外酥內(nèi)嫩的山東名小吃“油鏇”
Laundry by the spring泉水洗衣
An old man reading in a hutong胡同里看書的老人