尼娜·弗蘭德　郭曉陽/譯

On a hit list of the citys must-eat dishes， youll find not one， not two， but four meals on bread. （And yes， one is a hot dog. Let the debate1 begin.） We dig into those legends and the modern twists theyve inspired. Stomach growling already？ Lets eat.

在芝加哥必吃美食榜單上，你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)不止一兩款，而是四款面包夾料美食。（是的，有一款是熱狗。不服來辯。）我們深挖這四款美食的前世傳奇，以及它們催生出的現(xiàn)代花樣。肚子已經(jīng)咕咕叫了嗎？那就讓我們一飽口福！

Italian beef

意大利牛肉三明治

Known around the city simply as a “beef，” this monster piles thinly sliced roast beef and a smattering of green peppers on crusty French bread， then generously soaks it all in jus.

這款超大三明治在芝加哥家喻戶曉，簡(jiǎn)稱“牛肉三明治”，是將切成薄片的烤牛肉與少量青椒夾到脆皮法棍面包中，再豪放地整個(gè)浸入肉汁。

The history

歷史起源

Fans contest the sandwichs precise origins but agree it has roots in the Italian American community. The most widely accepted tale is that a street peddler named Anthony Ferreri， who delivered various combinations of bread and meat to locals， needed to feed a wedding of 150. He had an idea that could serve twice the amount of people with the same amount of food—before plopping the roast beef onto the bread， he sliced it as thinly as possible and cooked it in its juices. The sandwiches were a hit and led Ferreris son， Al， to open a beef stand in 1938.

關(guān)于這款三明治的確切起源，粉絲們眾說紛紜，但一致認(rèn)為它源自意大利裔美國(guó)人社區(qū)。最廣為接受的說法是：有個(gè)名叫安東尼·費(fèi)雷里的街頭小販，平日向當(dāng)?shù)厝耸圪u各類面包搭配肉制品的套餐。一次，他要為一場(chǎng)150人出席的婚禮提供餐食。他想出了一個(gè)辦法，可以用同樣分量的食材，供給兩倍數(shù)量的食客——他先把烤牛肉切成盡可能薄的肉片，再浸入肉汁中調(diào)味，最后才夾到面包里。這款三明治大受歡迎，費(fèi)雷里的兒子阿爾因此在1938年開了一個(gè)牛肉三明治攤。

Where to eat it

好店推薦

Als was originally a front for a bookie joint called Als Bar B-Q， but the shop gained popularity and grew into a franchised chain. Dozens of other Italian beef joints now exist in the Chicago area， including Johnnies Beef in Elmwood Park， which has been around since 1961 and was Anthony Bourdains2 beef of choice.

阿爾的攤位起初是一家博彩店的門面，名叫阿爾烤肉店。人氣高漲后，這個(gè)攤位逐步發(fā)展成一家特許連鎖店。除此之外，芝加哥地區(qū)現(xiàn)在還開有數(shù)十家意大利牛肉三明治店，包括開在埃爾姆伍德帕克的約翰尼牛肉三明治店。這家店創(chuàng)始于1961年，是安東尼·波登的首選意大利牛肉三明治店。

Fresh take

創(chuàng)意新品

Plant-Based Italian Beefless Sandwich from Buona， an Italian beef chain with locations around Chicagoland， has its own tagline： “A Chicago Taste But Plant-Based！” This vegan version of the staple holds its own with sliced seitan， and comes with mild or hot giardiniera for an extra kick.

意大利牛肉三明治連鎖店波納在芝加哥大都市區(qū)擁有多家分店，由其推出的素食意大利牛肉三明治，產(chǎn)品理念獨(dú)具一格：“芝加哥風(fēng)味，全素食美味！”這款素食三明治采用素肉片，并加入微辣或辛辣的意式泡菜，額外增添重口風(fēng)味。

Reuben

魯本三明治

The Reuben couldve been invented at a New York City deli called Reubens around 1914， but another origin story—one thats closer to home—traces the sandwich to the Blackstone Hotel （now the Kimpton Cottonwood） in Omaha， Nebraska.

魯本三明治可能是1914年前后，在紐約市一家名為“魯本”的熟食店里發(fā)明的。然而，另一種起源說法更接近真相，認(rèn)為這款三明治來自內(nèi)布拉斯加州奧馬哈市的黑石酒店（現(xiàn)為金普頓卡頓伍德酒店）。

The history

歷史起源

Its said that in the 1920s， a man named Reuben Kulakofsky asked for a sandwich with corned beef and sauerkraut. The hotel owners son， Bernard Schimmel， made a concoction of corned beef， Swiss cheese， sauerkraut and Thousand Island on rye—then grilled it. That sandwich became the hotels signature dish， later winning the National Sandwich Idea Contest in 1956. Reubens eventually made their way to Chicago， where other assimilated Jews opened delis and began slinging similar takes in the ‘40s and ‘50s. One of Chicagos most famous renditions？ The super-sized， signature Reuben at Mannys Cafeteria and Delicatessen， an institution thats been around since 1942.

據(jù)說，20世紀(jì)20年代，一個(gè)名叫魯本·庫(kù)拉科夫斯基的男人想吃一款用咸牛肉和德國(guó)泡菜制成的三明治。酒店老板的兒子伯納德·席梅爾將咸牛肉、瑞士干酪、德國(guó)泡菜、千島醬混合后，夾到黑麥面包中烤制。這款三明治成為酒店的招牌美食，后于1956年在全美三明治創(chuàng)意大賽中奪得桂冠。魯本三明治最終傳入芝加哥。20世紀(jì)40年代和50年代，其他歸化猶太人在芝加哥開設(shè)熟食店，開始供應(yīng)類似的三明治。芝加哥最負(fù)盛名的魯本三明治是哪款呢？那就是超大尺寸招牌魯本三明治，來自創(chuàng)始于1942年的曼尼自助熟食店。

Where to eat it

好店推薦

At Mannys， the classic Reuben comes with the delis award-winning corned beef， but you can opt to swap for pastrami， turkey pastrami or roasted turkey. The restaurant also offers a vegetarian-friendly Reuben made with a veggie patty.

曼尼的經(jīng)典魯本三明治采用自家榮獲獎(jiǎng)項(xiàng)的咸牛肉，但你也可以選擇更換為香熏牛肉、香熏火雞肉或烤火雞肉。這家店還供應(yīng)采用素肉餅的素食魯本三明治。

Fresh take

創(chuàng)意新品

The curing room at Lardon is a wonder， filled with the restaurants signature meats. Chef Chris Thompson makes his Reubens with house-smoked pastrami， Midnight Moon Gouda， house sauerkraut and deli pickles on marble rye. Instead of Thousand Island， he adds a swipe of Fancy Sauce—garlic aioli with ketchup and chopped cornichons.

拉東餐廳的腌制間令人贊嘆，里面全是店里的招牌肉制品。主廚克里斯·湯普森將餐廳自制熏牛肉、午夜月光高達(dá)奶酪、餐廳自制德國(guó)泡菜和從熟食店買來的腌菜，夾在大理石黑麥面包中，制成魯本三明治。他不用千島醬，而是刷上一層方西醬。這種醬汁由蒜蓉蛋黃醬、番茄醬和切碎的酸黃瓜制成。

Italian sub

意大利潛艇三明治

Italian subs exist all over the country， residing under different names： hoagie in Philadelphia， hero in New York， grinder across New England. Chicagos version comes without a special moniker， but just as much pizzazz.

意大利潛艇三明治可見于美國(guó)各地，只是叫法不同：在費(fèi)城叫“好個(gè)兒”三明治；在紐約叫“英雄”三明治；在新英格蘭叫“研磨機(jī)”三明治。芝加哥的意大利潛艇三明治沒有特別的綽號(hào)，但魅力絲毫不減。

The history

歷史起源

At J.P. Graziano， decades of family history are heaped onto every sandwich. Vincenzo Graziano came to Chicago in 1905 without any money. He opened his first grocery store in 1922， growing the business into the J.P. Graziano Grocery Company.

在J. P. 格拉齊亞諾的店里，數(shù)十年家族史沉積在每一個(gè)三明治上。溫琴佐·格拉齊亞諾 1905年身無分文來到芝加哥。1922年，他的第一家雜貨店開張，后來逐步發(fā)展成J. P. 格拉齊亞諾食品公司。

Where to eat it

好店推薦

In 2005， Grazianos great-grandson Jim Graziano established a sandwich shop inside the original West Loop grocery store， aiming to showcase the stores selection in a different way. Seventeen years later， J. P. Graziano has become a modern classic. Their take on the Italian sub features hot capicola， Genoa salami， mortadella， hard salami and provolone， plus tomato， lettuce， red wine vinegar and oregano—always stacked in the same order.

2005年，格拉齊亞諾的曾孫吉姆·格拉齊亞諾在原來的西環(huán)雜貨店內(nèi)開了一家三明治店，希望以不同的方式展示店內(nèi)的精品美食。17年后，J. P. 格拉齊亞諾成為現(xiàn)代經(jīng)典。他們的意大利潛艇三明治選用辣味意式冷切肉、熱那亞式蒜味臘腸、摩泰臺(tái)拉生熏香腸、硬質(zhì)蒜味臘腸、波蘿伏洛干酪，搭配番茄、生菜、紅酒醋和牛至，永遠(yuǎn)以相同的順序加料。

Fresh take

創(chuàng)意新品

At deli and grocer Tempesta Market， father-son duo Agostino and Tony Fiasche upgrade Italian subs. The Dante stars a cast of Italian ingredients—soppressata， piccante， porchetta cotta， hot capicola， mortadella， Genoa salami， provolone， lettuce， tomato and giardiniera—but sneaks in a spicy spreadable pork sausage known as ‘nduja. The Fiasches blend their own Tempesta ‘nduja into aioli， which adds a deeper， richer flavor.

在名叫滕佩斯塔市場(chǎng)的熟食雜貨店，阿戈斯蒂諾·菲亞斯凱和托尼·菲亞斯凱父子搭檔，改良了意大利潛艇三明治。這款但丁三明治全部選用意大利食材：意大利干香腸、皮肯特沙司、切碎的意大利脆皮烤豬肉卷、辣味意式冷切肉、摩泰臺(tái)拉生熏香腸、熱那亞式蒜味臘腸、波蘿伏洛干酪、生菜、番茄和意式泡菜，但出其不意地加入了意大利辣腸——一種可攤開的辣味豬肉腸。菲亞斯凱父子把自制的滕佩斯塔意大利辣腸拌入蒜蓉蛋黃醬，使口味更加豐富醇厚。

Chicago-style hot dog

芝加哥風(fēng)味熱狗

Nine ingredients—and nine ingredients only—make up a Chicago Red Hot. They include an all-beef frank， a steamed bun and a salad bar of toppings.

芝加哥風(fēng)味熱狗包含且只包含九種食材，其中包括純牛肉法蘭克福熏腸、熱騰騰的熱狗面包及各種蔬菜頂料。

The history

歷史起源

The unusual inclusion of vegetables （some fresh， some pickled） dates to the Great Depression， when street vendors attempted to make a cheap meal slightly more nutritious by adding garnishes like tomato. But the really critical detail is the one you dont see： ketchup. Enthusiasts claim it would ruin the masterpiece—a perfect balance of hot and cold， sour and salty， soft and crunchy.

加入蔬菜（有新鮮的，也有腌制的）這種不尋常的做法可以追溯至大蕭條時(shí)期，當(dāng)時(shí)的街頭小販想通過加入番茄等配菜，給廉價(jià)的餐食增添少許營(yíng)養(yǎng)。不過，真正關(guān)鍵的細(xì)節(jié)是你見不到番茄醬。芝加哥風(fēng)味熱狗的忠實(shí)粉絲認(rèn)為，番茄醬會(huì)毀了這款杰作——這是冷與熱、酸與咸、軟與脆的完美平衡。

Where to eat it

好店推薦

The winking red eyes of a macho hot dog and his blushing bride3 （named after founders Maurie and Flaurie Berman） lure passersby to Superdawg Drive-In. One of the citys most revered spots for a Chicago dog， the family-owned roadside stand has served hot dogs via carhops since 1948—though they cost a little more than 22 cents now.

熱狗壯漢眨著鮮紅的雙眼，與他臉紅的新娘（以餐廳創(chuàng)始人莫里·伯曼和弗洛莉·伯曼命名）一起，把過往行人招徠至超級(jí)熱狗汽車餐廳。這個(gè)家族經(jīng)營(yíng)的路邊餐廳是芝加哥最受推崇的芝加哥風(fēng)味熱狗名店之一，自1948年起就以汽車餐廳的形式售賣熱狗，不過現(xiàn)在的價(jià)格會(huì)比當(dāng)年的22美分貴那么一點(diǎn)。

Fresh take

創(chuàng)意新品

At The Duck Inn， chef Kevin Hickey pays tribute to the classic with the Duck Inn Dog， a beef-and-duck-fat frank thats grilled and nestled in a brioche bun. The toppings remain true to trad-ition and include house-made relish and mustard. If you go whole quack and order a side of duck fat fries with Bloody Mary ketchup， make sure the red stuff4 stays where it belongs—off the dog.

杜克小館的主廚凱文·?；戮唇?jīng)典，推出杜克小館熱狗，將牛肉鴨油法蘭克福熏腸烤制后，夾到法式奶油甜面包里。頂料遵循傳統(tǒng)，包含餐廳自制配菜和芥末醬。如果你來個(gè)全鴨套餐，配菜點(diǎn)了鴨油薯?xiàng)l搭配血腥瑪麗番茄醬，務(wù)必把那紅色玩意兒放在該放的地方，離熱狗遠(yuǎn)點(diǎn)。

（譯者為“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎(jiǎng)?wù)撸?/p>