文/周華誠(chéng)

杭州南宋德壽宮遺址博物館。The Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province.

南宋德壽宮遺址博物館開放后，許多游客趁著秋陽正好，排著隊(duì)在德壽宮的紅墻邊“打卡”。那么，德壽宮何以憑“一墻之力”火出圈？德壽宮遺址博物館開放后，對(duì)這座城市又有什么重要意義呢？

杭州的文化基因

宋韻，杭州城市文化血脈里隱藏的基因。杭州的城市格局塑造、飲食習(xí)慣、生活美學(xué)、文化藝術(shù)，都跟南宋一朝息息相關(guān)。

德壽宮是一扇窗，往窗內(nèi)一瞥，便是千年風(fēng)華。

1162年，宋高宗退位后移居“德壽宮”，時(shí)人稱大內(nèi)皇宮為“南內(nèi)”，稱德壽宮為“北內(nèi)”。世事變遷，德壽宮在歷史云煙中歸于消逝，也被城市建設(shè)所層層疊壓。八百多年后，這座德壽宮終于重新出現(xiàn)在世人面前。

德壽宮的遺址保護(hù)與文化展示，對(duì)于杭州這座城市意義重大。因?yàn)楹贾莩鞘形幕?、氣質(zhì)的形成，與南宋密不可分。德壽宮遺址作為南宋皇城遺址的一部分，是城市的珍貴遺存。它的保護(hù)發(fā)掘與地面建筑復(fù)原，對(duì)于杭州這座城市有著重要的意義。

倘要真正讀懂杭州，除了一座西湖，還要有一座德壽宮。

望江路以北，中河以東，直吉祥巷以西，梅花碑以南—這就是南宋德壽宮的大致方位。就像一座埋藏著巨大秘密的城堡，南宋臨安城深深地掩藏在地下2.5 米至3.5 米深處。

這是一座深藏于地下的南宋宮苑。隨著時(shí)代的更迭與城市建設(shè)的推進(jìn)，歷史的遺跡如同光陰一般層層疊壓覆蓋起來。

和很多遺址地層一樣，遺跡堆積中，上層覆蓋下層，這被稱為“疊壓關(guān)系”。下層形成在先，上層形成在后，決定了時(shí)間邏輯的順序，下層時(shí)間早于上層，這是考古學(xué)家們判斷遺存時(shí)間邏輯的重要依據(jù)。

地面上時(shí)代更替，光陰流轉(zhuǎn)，一層層遺跡將過去的故事掩埋下去。如今，當(dāng)人們行走在南宋臨安城遺址的范圍內(nèi)，地表之上，車水馬龍，高樓林立，人聲鼎沸，春花秋葉；人們很難想象，在地面之下還深深地隱藏著另一座舊時(shí)的城市。

那些考古學(xué)者，從偶然間被發(fā)掘出來的一磚一瓦、一瓷一器中，讓目光透過那歷史的重重迷霧，窺見過去的一抹輝煌。

城市考古，類似于“拼圖”。它的難度在于，這張拼圖過于巨大，而每一塊拼圖都孤立無援。它們或許有著遙遠(yuǎn)的關(guān)系，但大多數(shù)時(shí)候，考古學(xué)家?guī)缀鯚o法拼湊出一張完整的圖案。

無數(shù)的高樓大廈，無數(shù)的街道與工廠，早已在這座城市上重新生長(zhǎng)起來。很多地方，理想化的時(shí)間疊壓地層關(guān)系已被打破。有限的物證碎片像是被海浪偶然間沖卷到海灘上的貝殼，無意中被在海灘上玩耍的孩童撿拾—僅僅憑借一枚貝殼，人們無法拼湊對(duì)于整個(gè)大海的想象。

但是，有趣的地方正在于此：年復(fù)一年，當(dāng)一枚又一枚的貝殼相繼被帶到海灘上時(shí)，關(guān)于大海的描述，正在無限接近大海本身。

為了掌握南宋臨安城遺址的狀況，近三四十年來，考古學(xué)家們都在這一片土地上見縫插針地進(jìn)行調(diào)查勘探和發(fā)掘。

通過努力，沉睡近千年的南宋德壽宮，此刻終于顯露出冰山一角。

從歷次考古發(fā)現(xiàn)來看，德壽宮遺址面積不少于11 萬平方米，有五開間的殿宇，規(guī)格不低 ；有水池、大水渠、假山石，顯然是一大片園林遺存 ；這里又是與“南內(nèi)”相提并論的“北內(nèi)”，太上皇和皇太后們居住的地方—它的意義，非同小可。

南宋臨安城遺址考古發(fā)掘，也被列入“中國(guó)現(xiàn)代考古學(xué)誕生100 周年的100 個(gè)重大考古發(fā)現(xiàn)”。

隱秘的“保護(hù)系統(tǒng)”

從宋高宗退休搬進(jìn)德壽宮的那天算起，到數(shù)十位文保、考古、古建筑等各類專家匯聚在德壽宮遺址現(xiàn)場(chǎng)開會(huì)的時(shí)候，已經(jīng)過去了800多年。時(shí)間就像流水一樣從這片土地上漫過。

德壽宮遺址保護(hù)與復(fù)原展示，是一個(gè)系統(tǒng)性工程。其中每一個(gè)工種，需要不同的專業(yè)機(jī)構(gòu)、人員去完成。

德壽宮遺址所處的南宋文化層，浸泡在地下水中。把遺址揭露出來，如何進(jìn)行土遺址的保護(hù)與展示，是一個(gè)世界性的難題。德壽宮遺址項(xiàng)目面臨的首要任務(wù)就是破解這一難題。

杭州南宋德壽宮遺址博物館一隅。The wooden tablet bearing the Chinese characters “Deshou”, the title of the main hall of the Deshou Palace, is seen at the place on November 18, 2022 in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province.

遺址在積水的長(zhǎng)時(shí)間浸泡下，土遺址會(huì)出現(xiàn)軟化、泥化現(xiàn)象，其力學(xué)性質(zhì)也發(fā)生顯著改變。有的遺址如果露出水面，這塊土壤中的水分也會(huì)通過空氣不斷蒸發(fā)，毛細(xì)水源源不斷地把溶質(zhì)搬運(yùn)過來，在表面集聚，造成土遺址表面土體的疏松、脫落，或析出鹽分、結(jié)殼，損害文物和文物保存的環(huán)境。

此外，水體富營(yíng)養(yǎng)化也會(huì)使遺址表面生長(zhǎng)出苔蘚，不僅把遺址文物的本來面目覆蓋掉，還會(huì)改變遺址文物的表觀結(jié)構(gòu)，對(duì)遺址產(chǎn)生危害。相對(duì)溫濕度的變化，還會(huì)引起土遺址內(nèi)保存的木材、象牙等有機(jī)質(zhì)文物的變化。

在德壽宮遺址保護(hù)的過程中，病害的防治成為工作的首要任務(wù)。遺址文物一旦外部環(huán)境被人為改變，就會(huì)產(chǎn)生不可逆的影響。文物一旦被人為破壞，那就是無法挽回的。

對(duì)于潮濕環(huán)境下遺址的保護(hù)，最重要的事是：第一，防水；第二，加固。

針對(duì)德壽宮遺址的具體情況，最終確立下來的方案是，在德壽宮遺址的地下，四周修上一道永久性的墻，將地下水隔斷。同時(shí)，在遺址地表上建設(shè)保護(hù)棚罩，將潮濕環(huán)境轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)楦稍锃h(huán)境，以對(duì)遺址進(jìn)行保護(hù)。

因此，德壽宮遺址保護(hù)開創(chuàng)性地采用了“止水帷幕”作為地下永久防滲墻。

這道墻的長(zhǎng)度達(dá)四百四十米，墻體寬度七十厘米，深度達(dá)十七米至十八米—這樣的深度表示已抵達(dá)巖層。如果作個(gè)比喻的話，那就是在遺址的四面，圍了一個(gè)水泥桶，把遺址整個(gè)兒地“裝”了起來。

止水帷幕圍合面積達(dá)到4918平方米。德壽宮止水帷幕的成功實(shí)踐，將為我國(guó)潮濕地區(qū)遺址保護(hù)提供新的防滲墻形式借鑒。

德壽宮遺址博物館開放后，人們往往注意到華美的宮殿、壯觀的遺址、精美的園林，很少有人會(huì)留意到土遺址的保護(hù)問題，更極少有人知道在遺址的四周有一個(gè)隱秘的“保護(hù)系統(tǒng)”。而這恰恰是今天的人們，借助當(dāng)下的科學(xué)技術(shù)手段，達(dá)成對(duì)文化遺產(chǎn)進(jìn)行保護(hù)的目標(biāo)。

2022宋韻文化節(jié)開幕暨南宋德壽宮遺址博物館開館儀式現(xiàn)場(chǎng)。The 2022 Song Yun Cultural Festival opens on November 18, 2022 in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province. The Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum was unveiled at the same time.

穿越時(shí)空的對(duì)話

為了盡可能地溯源和遵循南宋建筑的法式特征和構(gòu)造做法，再現(xiàn)南宋建筑的神韻，項(xiàng)目方對(duì)德壽宮的每一個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)都作了仔細(xì)推敲。

譬如，德壽宮的屋頂，沒有鋪琉璃瓦。

論豪華程度，論皇家氣派，肯定是琉璃瓦更豪華、更氣派。這在宋代的古建筑里是常見的，宋畫里也有。

但是經(jīng)過專家討論，一致決定不用琉璃瓦，因?yàn)榭脊抛C據(jù)不支持。最后大殿屋頂選用了樸素的陶土瓦。復(fù)原團(tuán)隊(duì)對(duì)每一個(gè)大大小小的構(gòu)件進(jìn)行推敲和修改，有的構(gòu)件甚至修改不下百次。僅僅是德壽大殿正脊上的鴟吻，專家們前前后后修改了幾十個(gè)來回。

德壽宮出土的鴟吻殘件，大約只占完整鴟吻構(gòu)件的十五分之一。根據(jù)這一塊小小的殘件，技術(shù)小組絞盡腦汁，試圖把它歸位到那塊已然消失的整體中去。

鴟吻，也叫鴟尾、螭吻。在中國(guó)古建筑里，這是放在屋脊正脊兩端的一種飾物。它來自中國(guó)古代傳說，一種神獸，龍的第九子。在房脊上安放兩個(gè)相對(duì)的鴟吻，寓意是能避火災(zāi)。

鴟吻的形象，一直在發(fā)生變化。從《瑞鶴圖》上，我們可以得到一個(gè)直觀的認(rèn)知—龍頭、魚尾的形象，成為德壽宮鴟吻的主體形象。德壽宮上的鴟吻是什么樣的？大小如何？專家們?yōu)榇嘶ㄙM(fèi)了巨大的心力，最終得到各方肯定的形象。

他們一遍遍地核對(duì)考古遺址，查閱《思陵錄》《營(yíng)造法式》，同時(shí)還研究浙江現(xiàn)有的宋元建筑的形制樣式、等級(jí)關(guān)系，去圖書館找宋畫資料，一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)推敲，試圖無限接近于歷史中的德壽宮“真相”。大殿上最后復(fù)原的“龍頭劍把魚尾鴟吻”，高1810 毫米、950 毫米，寬340 毫米，側(cè)面是1320 毫米。在雄偉大殿的屋頂上，人站在地面看上去，非常遙遠(yuǎn)，也幾乎沒有人會(huì)留意到那么小的細(xì)節(jié)。

但德壽宮復(fù)原團(tuán)隊(duì)的專家們卻用這樣的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，在要求建筑的每一處細(xì)節(jié)。

望柱、蓮花座、斗栱，每一條線條、每一個(gè)花紋、每一個(gè)角度……都反復(fù)修改、打樣。細(xì)到柱子上斗栱的“卷殺”，每一刀的角度，都不放過。

關(guān)于德壽宮的細(xì)節(jié)故事還有很多。德壽宮遺址保護(hù)展示工程項(xiàng)目的不少參與者認(rèn)為，能參與到這個(gè)項(xiàng)目中是人生之幸?！斑@片土地是有力量的，我相信，德壽宮這個(gè)項(xiàng)目，對(duì)于所有參與其中的人來說，都會(huì)是一種滋養(yǎng)?！?/p>

每個(gè)人的一輩子，都在尋找一個(gè)機(jī)會(huì)，可以把自己的生命投入其中而不求回報(bào)地去完成它。德壽宮項(xiàng)目就是這樣的事。做這樣的事，在精神上獲得的回報(bào)，會(huì)超乎原本的想象。

這是一次漫長(zhǎng)時(shí)光的穿越，更是一次與美的對(duì)話。正是通過這樣的對(duì)話，今人與古人得以心意接通、精神共鳴。

穿過這扇歷史的大門，人們步入德壽宮，步入800 多年前的大宋王朝，也步入一座城市深厚文明的歷史長(zhǎng)河之中。

Deshou Palace: A Thousand Years at a Glance

By Zhou Huacheng

As soon as the Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum (also known as the Deshou Palace Museum) was unveiled, many tourists took advantage of the autumn sun to line up for taking tourist-checking-in photos in front of its signature red wall.

What is the Deshou Palace’s phenomenal charm, and what is the significance of the Deshou Palace’s opening to the city of Hangzhou?

Song Yun, or the charm of the Song dynasty culture, is a hidden gene in the cultural bloodline of Hangzhou. The city’s urban pattern, dietary habits, life aesthetics, culture, and art are all closely related to the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279).

The Deshou Palace is a window — a glance inside reveals a thousand years of splendor.

In 1162, after the abdication of Emperor Gaozong (1107-1187), the former emperor retreated to the Deshou Palace. People call the imperial palace as “Nannei” (the southern inner court)and the Deshou Palace as “Beinei” (the northern inner court). As things changed, the Deshou Palace faded into the mist of history and was overlaid by urban construction. After more than 800 years, the Deshou Palace finally reappeared in front of the world.

The preservation and cultural display of the Deshou Palace is of great significance to Hangzhou, because the formation of the city’s culture and temperament is inseparable from the Southern Song dynasty.

If you want to understand Hangzhou, it is advisable to not only look at the West Lake but also the Deshou Palace.

North of the Wangjiang Road, east of the Zhonghe River,west of Zhijixiang Lane and south of the Meihua Monument —this was roughly the location of the Deshou Palace in the Southern Song dynasty. Like a castle with a huge buried secret, the Lin’an city (present-day Hangzhou) in the Southern Song dynasty was deeply hidden at a depth of 2.5 meters to 3.5 meters underground.With the change of the times and the advancement of urban construction, the historical relics were covered up like layers of time.

In relic accumulation, the upper layers tend to overlay the lower layers, which is called “stratigraphic succession”. The formation of the lower layers first and the upper layers later determines the chronological logic, with the lower layers predating the upper layers — an important basis for archaeologists to determine the chronological logic of the ruins.

Urban archeology is similar to a “jigsaw puzzle”. Its difficulty lies in the fact that the puzzle is too big, and each piece is isolated and helpless. They may be distantly related, but most of the time,archaeologists can hardly piece together a complete pattern.

But here’s the interesting part: year after year, as shells are successively brought from the sea to the beach, the description of the sea is getting in finitely closer to the sea itself.

To grasp the conditions of the ruins of the Lin’an city in the Southern Song dynasty, archeologists have been investigating,exploring,and excavating this piece of land for nearly 40 years.Thanks to their efforts, the Deshou Palace of the Southern Song dynasty, which has been dormant for nearly a thousand years, is now finally revealing the tip of the iceberg.

杭州南宋德壽宮遺址博物館航拍。肖奕叁/攝An aerial view of the Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province. Photo by Xiao Yisan.

From the archeological discoveries, we have learned that the magnificent ruins of the Deshou Palace is no less than 110,000 square meters in size, with a five-room hall; there are ponds, large drains, and rockeries — apparently, it is the ruins of a large garden;it is also the place where the emperors and empress dowagers once lived … Its significance is anything but trivial.

The archeological excavation of the Lin’an city is also listed as one of the 100 major archeological discoveries on the 100th anniversary of the birth of modern Chinese archeology.

More than 800 years have passed since the day Emperor Gaozong retired and moved into the Deshou Palace, to the time when dozens of experts in cultural preservation, archeology, and ancient architecture converged on the ruins of the Deshou Palace for a meeting. Time is like flowing water, roaming through this land.

The cultural layer of the Southern Song dynasty, in which the Deshou Palace ruins is located, was immersed in groundwater. It is a worldwide problem to expose the ruins and to carry out the conservation and display project of the earthen ruins. Thefirst task facing the Deshou Palace ruins project was to crack this puzzle.

For the protection of the ruins in a humid environment,there are two most important things: first, waterproofing; second,reinforcement. Given the specific situation of the Deshou Palace ruins, the final plan was to build a permanent wall around the underground of the Deshou Palace ruins to isolate the underground water. At the same time, the ruins would be protected by building a protective shelter on the surface of the ruins to change the environment from wet to dry. Therefore, the conservation of the Deshou Palace ruins pioneered the use of a “water curtain” as a permanent underground impermeable wall.

The wall is 440 meters long, with a width of 70 centimeters and a depth of 17 to 18 meters — a depth that reaches the rock layer. Metaphorically speaking, it is a concrete barrel that“encloses” the ruins on all sides. The area enclosed by the water curtain is 4,918 square meters. The successful practice of the “water curtain” in the Deshou Palace will provide a reference for the protection of ruins in humid areas in China.

For visitors to the newly opened Deshou Palace Museum,it is not difficult to take notice of the gorgeous palace, the spectacular ruins and the exquisite gardens. But when it comes to the conservation of the earthen ruins or even a hidden “protection system” around the ruins, few people have paid attention. This is precisely the goal nowadays: with the help of current scientific and technological means to achieve the preservation of cultural heritage.

To trace and follow the French features and construction practices of the Southern Song architecture as much as possible,and to reproduce the charm of the Southern Song architecture,every detail of the Deshou Palace was carefully scrutinized by the project carrier.

For example, the roof of the restored Deshou Palace is not covered with glazed tiles, which speak for luxury and royal elegance. This is common practice in ancient buildings and also seen in paintings of the Song dynasty (960-1279). But after discussion, experts unanimously decided not to use glazed tiles for lack of support from archaeological evidence. In the end, plain clay tiles were chosen for the roof of the main hall.

There are many other details of the Deshou Palace story.Among the participants of the project, many consider it a lifetime blessing to be involved in this project.

Visiting the Deshou Palace Museum is a long journey through time, and a dialogue of beauty as well. It is through such a dialogue that modern people and their ancestors can connect their hearts and resonate with their spirits.

2022宋韻文化節(jié)開幕暨南宋德壽宮遺址博物館開館儀式現(xiàn)場(chǎng)。Artists perform at the opening ceremony of the 2022 Song Yun Cultural Festival on November 18, 2022 in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province. The Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum was unveiled at the same time.