馬克強(qiáng)

地處杭州西北部的良渚古城遺址公園，被列入之江藝術(shù)長廊是意料之中的事。從歷經(jīng)五千年沉睡、穿透歷史煙云、登上世界舞臺(tái)中心，至如今山水城池交融，成為后人的“朝圣地”，良渚古城遺址公園已是厚重歷史文化最典型、最為直接的物質(zhì)載體，是體驗(yàn)和感悟“中華五千年文明”的重要場所。

朝圣良渚

都說1000年歷史看北京、2000年歷史看西安、5000年歷史看良渚，漫步在良渚古城遺址公園，一片清新之景讓人心曠神怡。

這是一處距今5000多年且擁有城墻和水利系統(tǒng)的規(guī)模最大、保存最好的都邑遺址，在2019年7月6日被聯(lián)合國教科文組織世界遺產(chǎn)委員會(huì)列入《世界遺產(chǎn)名錄》?？偯娣e14.33平方公里，分城址區(qū)、瑤山遺址區(qū)、平原低壩—山前長堤區(qū)和谷口高壩區(qū)4個(gè)片區(qū)。目前有限開放的區(qū)域是城址區(qū)的核心部分，面積3.66平方公里，這部分又被分為城門與城墻、考古體驗(yàn)區(qū)、河道與作坊、雉山觀景臺(tái)、莫角山宮殿、反山王陵、西城墻遺址、鳳山研學(xué)基地、大觀山休憩區(qū)和鹿苑十大片區(qū)。

夏末秋初的早晨，天氣仍舊有幾分炎熱，良渚古城遺址公園門外卻是游客成群，老人們乘著接駁公交，從良渚地鐵站換乘而來;三口之家，駕著小汽車，從雙向6車道的京福線駛來;成群的學(xué)生，坐滿了大巴車，駛進(jìn)綠樹成蔭的停車場。提前一周的門票預(yù)約，每天保護(hù)性限流3000人次，讓他們對(duì)“朝圣”之旅多了幾分虔誠與期待。

暑期里孩子們?cè)诩议L帶領(lǐng)下，在城門與城墻、河道與作坊、反山王陵、西城墻遺址等處耐心觀察模擬實(shí)景;在考古體驗(yàn)區(qū)親身體驗(yàn)良渚文化發(fā)掘;在良渚 · 原創(chuàng)生活館看文創(chuàng)產(chǎn)品;在最核心的宮殿區(qū)，感受王族的崇高地位。俯仰之間，便可穿越時(shí)空。而未來，還將建立鳳山研學(xué)基地，可以為公眾提供豐富的研學(xué)“朝圣”旅行內(nèi)容。

立于良渚古城遺址外城，感覺這里更像是一個(gè)濕地公園。公園建設(shè)以遺址為內(nèi)容、以公園為形式，遵循的是“保護(hù)為主、考古先行”的基本原則，所以遺址上只有很少量的建筑物。憑借原有的水系及后期治理，公園內(nèi)復(fù)原了完整的濕地系統(tǒng)。水草繁盛、水系交織，套種的水稻，一畦一畦連成片，遠(yuǎn)處天目山余脈，逶迤如黛，農(nóng)居點(diǎn)綴其間。

逝去的良渚王國并未帶走良渚文明，它如涓涓溪流匯入了歷史長河，是中華五千年文明史的實(shí)證，期待著每一個(gè)朝圣者的到來，一起見證更多的未知良渚。

穿越古今

與一般的公園不同，良渚遺址公園是以考古為特色的公園，今后很長一個(gè)時(shí)期內(nèi)仍將持續(xù)開展的良渚古城遺址考古發(fā)掘與研究工作，將是參觀者理解古城遺址豐富內(nèi)涵和遺產(chǎn)價(jià)值的重要窗口。

作為國家考古遺址公園，良渚古城遺址公園集考古遺址本體及其環(huán)境的保護(hù)展示、教育、科研、游覽、休閑等多項(xiàng)功能于一體。遺址公園建設(shè)是在考古研究的基礎(chǔ)上，以遺址本體保護(hù)為主，深挖遺址文化內(nèi)涵，系統(tǒng)梳理遺址區(qū)內(nèi)環(huán)境，大量運(yùn)用綠植標(biāo)識(shí)遺址本體，著力恢復(fù)良渚古城時(shí)期的古地貌環(huán)境，為游客展示一個(gè)水草豐美、河網(wǎng)密布的王國都邑。

如今的良渚古城遺址公園大面積地保留和還原了原來的濕地生態(tài)系統(tǒng)，公園內(nèi)林木繁茂、水系縱橫，同時(shí)為了反映良渚文化稻作文明的特點(diǎn)，還套種了大量的水稻，吸引了大量珍貴鳥類前來?xiàng)ⅲ浞终故玖肆间竟懦菚r(shí)期的水鄉(xiāng)澤國風(fēng)貌。

以考古研究為基礎(chǔ)，公園還設(shè)置了考古體驗(yàn)和河道與作坊兩處互動(dòng)性較強(qiáng)的參訪區(qū)域，訪客在考古體驗(yàn)點(diǎn)參觀良渚古城的生活面貌展示外，還能在互動(dòng)體驗(yàn)里體驗(yàn)一把平時(shí)難得一見的考古發(fā)掘工作;在河道與作坊區(qū)域，還根據(jù)考古發(fā)現(xiàn)復(fù)原了當(dāng)時(shí)作坊區(qū)繁榮的生產(chǎn)場景，通過房屋人物的雕塑展示加工玉器、漆器、石器，可以現(xiàn)場體驗(yàn)紡織、夯土、打陀螺等生活和工作場景。

“家門口在建亞運(yùn)會(huì)場館，門口地鐵又可以直通良渚。”家住蕭山的戚先生，周末帶上孩子，搭乘地鐵2號(hào)線去良渚博物院看展覽，到良渚古城遺址公園看遺址、體驗(yàn)考古項(xiàng)目，一天下來，戚先生很感慨：“一天穿越古今，近身觸摸中華民族的根與魂，這種感覺很奇妙?！?/p>

融合發(fā)展

良渚人梅嬌寅，5歲開始學(xué)習(xí)舞蹈，從良渚出發(fā)走出國門，心里念念不忘的始終是故鄉(xiāng)。2018年，為助力良渚申遺，她和良渚遺址周邊社區(qū)聯(lián)合發(fā)起“舞態(tài)良渚”社區(qū)舞蹈教育公益活動(dòng)，還帶領(lǐng)“舞態(tài)良渚”與全世界頂級(jí)的舞蹈專家和教育專家分享，讓良渚人與良渚的故事走上世界舞臺(tái)。

“千挑萬選，把家安在了良渚，這個(gè)夏天就可以搬進(jìn)新家了?！痹鴧⑴c良渚申遺志愿者工作的“新杭州人”劉女士憧憬著在良渚的新生活：“樓下就是櫻花掩映的大劇院，不遠(yuǎn)處就是美院良渚校區(qū)，步行幾公里就能去遺產(chǎn)區(qū)感受生態(tài)林，選擇生活在良渚是精神物質(zhì)的活色生香?！?/p>

正是一個(gè)個(gè)像她們這樣的“原住民”匯入了力量，才讓良渚與杭州歷史文化名城的建設(shè)更加“深度融合”，活態(tài)利用得到“新發(fā)展”。

“我不是良渚研究的專家，我是良渚的一個(gè)仰慕者。中國良渚古城遺址，在我心中是中國乃至全世界最偉大的史前文化遺址之一。”國際考古學(xué)泰斗科林 · 倫福儒第三次到訪良渚后感嘆。

在之前舉行的國家考古遺址公園文化藝術(shù)周上，103家國家考古遺址公園代表齊聚良渚，發(fā)布《關(guān)于新時(shí)代國家考古遺址公園可持續(xù)發(fā)展的良渚共識(shí)》，科林 · 倫福儒的由衷稱贊，引發(fā)臺(tái)下來自世界各地的100多位專家學(xué)者的共鳴……做大做強(qiáng)良渚學(xué)研究，積極推動(dòng)文明交流互鑒，這正是杭州堅(jiān)持“文化交流+學(xué)術(shù)研究”兩條腿走路的成果。

從2019年夏天開始，拿到全國統(tǒng)編《中國歷史》教科書的七年級(jí)新生，在翻開書頁時(shí)就可一睹良渚遺址的風(fēng)采;在良渚古城遺址公園內(nèi)，還設(shè)立了良渚國際研學(xué)中心和良渚文明探索營地，共同構(gòu)建全方位的研學(xué)平臺(tái)、教育基地。

眼下，精心編制的新一版良渚古城遺址保護(hù)總體規(guī)劃，在全新的保護(hù)與可持續(xù)發(fā)展規(guī)劃中，當(dāng)?shù)毓芾頇C(jī)構(gòu)希望為良渚構(gòu)筑起“雙國寶”的特色保護(hù)體系，在將遺產(chǎn)地打造為可持續(xù)發(fā)展利用的管理典范的同時(shí)，將良渚區(qū)域打造為中華五千年文明延續(xù)并高質(zhì)量發(fā)展的“窗口”。

良渚的故事，依然在現(xiàn)代熠熠生輝;文明的圣地，必將在未來生生不息。一場傳承歷史文脈、增強(qiáng)文化自信、統(tǒng)籌保護(hù)與發(fā)展的非凡實(shí)踐之路，將在杭州這片燦爛土地上繼續(xù)塑造“古今交匯的文化盛景”。

Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City：

A Source of Chinese Civilization

By Ma Keqiang

To see the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City， which lies in the northwest of Hangzhou， listed among the many development projects of the Zhijiang Art Corridor is not a surprise at all. Lying underground for tens of centuries before being uncovered and then made a world heritage， the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City has now become a “sacred place” to experience and appreciate the splendid “5，000-year Chinese civilization”.

It is often said that to see the past 1，000 years of China， one should go to Beijing， to see the past 2，000 years， one should go to Xian， and to see the past 5，000 years， one should go to Liangzhu. Dating back about 5，300 years， the Archaeological Ruins of Liangzhu City is the largest and best-preserved city ruins with both city walls and the water conservancy system， and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List on July 6， 2019.

Covering an area of 14.33 square kilometers， the ruins is divided into four areas， namely City Site Area， Yaoshan Site Area， Low Dam on the Plain–Causeway in Front of the Mountains Area and High Dam at the Mouth of the Valley Area. At present， only the core part of the City Site Area， a size of 3.66 square kilometers， is open to the public， which is composed of ten sections， including the city gates and city walls， the archeological experience zone， Fanshan Imperial Tomb， among others.

On the morning of a late summer day， the weather is still sultry， but throngs of tourists have already gathered at the entrance to the Archaeological Ruins of Liangzhu City. Elderly people who came here by shuttle bus， families of three or four in their private cars， and busloads of students on their field trips. They stand in line to check in， their tickets reserved a week in advance， for the number of visitors is capped at 3，000 per day， which have undoubtedly heightened their anticipation for the following “pilgrimage”.

Led by their parents， children on summer vacation carefully observe and examine the simulated scenes along the city gates and city walls， among the waterways and workshops， and in front of the Fanshan Imperial Tomb. They are also able to personally experience excavating the Liangzhu ruins and imagine what the Liangzhu kings felt when they resided in the palace 5，000 years ago. Since the summer of 2019， seventh graders all over the country have also been able to read up on the ancient ruins in their history textbook.

Standing in the Outer City of the ruins， the site of the ruins is more akin to a wetland park. In fact， it is generally referred to as a park， an archeological park， more specifically， and the development of park follows the principle of “protection first and foremost， and archeological work trumps everything”. Therefore， only a handful of buildings can be seen on the ruins. Relying on the original water conservancy system that has been later treated， a comprehensive wetland system has been restored. Now， the park is densely forested， with crisscrossing rivers and crooks， in which water plants grow with exuberance. In large swathes of land is also planted rice， to demonstrate unique features of the rice-cultivating agriculture of the Liangzhu culture as its economic base. Indeed， the rice fields have drawn a multitude of rare birds to settle as their habitat.

“Close to my home， the venues for the 2022 Asian Games are being built，” says Mr. Qi， who lives in Xiaoshan district in the southeast of Hangzhou. “Then， on the other side of Metro Line 2 is the 5，000-year-old Liangzhu.” On any weekend， all Mr. Qi， together with his children and family， has to do is hop onto Metro Line 2 before it takes them to the Liangzhu Museum and the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City， and transports them back into history. “It is such a wonderful feeling to travel back and forth between modernity and history and touch the root and soul of the Chinese nation，” according to Mr. Qi.

To the roots the Chinese people always return. A Liangzhu native， Ms. Mei Jiaoyin has been studying dance since she was five years old. She had been staying abroad for many years when， in 2018， Ms. Mei returned to Liangzhu and joined the campaign for the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City to become a world heritage site by telling the Liangzhu story through dancing. “Out of so many choices， Ive finally decided to settle down in Liangzhu，” Ms. Liu， who worked as a volunteer for the campaign， is looking forward to her new life. “Ill soon move into my new apartment， which is only a stones away from the China Academy of Art， and a couple kilometers walk from the ruins.” For her， choosing to live in Liangzhu is simply the best of all worlds， material， spiritual， artistic and cultural.

It is thanks to people like Ms. Mei and Ms Liu that Liangzhu has developed into what it is today. In an age when the public cares more about heritage， about history and culture， the story of Liangzhu is ever more relevant.

“Im no expert on the research on Liangzhu，” Colin Renfrew， a renowned British archeologist， once said after he had visited the ruins for a third time， “but Im its admirer. To me， the Archeological Ruins of Liangzhu City is one of greatest prehistoric sites not only in China， but all over the world.”