金少策 葉小平
甌江上游,云和風光大開大合。無論泛舟湖上,還是水邊閑居,每一回頭,都仿佛融入了甌江山水的余韻。從浙江省麗水市出發(fā),行50公里,便來到了云和縣。此時,水流湍急的甌江也變得溫柔起來,蜿蜒至云和境內(nèi),與山川峽谷中形成了一條山水畫廊。
得益于好山好水好生態(tài),云和旅游產(chǎn)業(yè)取得了大發(fā)展。2014年以來,當?shù)卣畤@“一城一湖一梯田多鄉(xiāng)村”定位,立足生態(tài)優(yōu)勢,以山水為底色,以童話為主題,以濃重筆觸抹開了一幅“山水童話之城”的曼妙畫卷。
目前,云和國家級生態(tài)鄉(xiāng)鎮(zhèn)比例達80%、省級生態(tài)鄉(xiāng)鎮(zhèn)比例達100%,連續(xù)15年生態(tài)環(huán)境狀況級別為優(yōu);創(chuàng)成國家重點生態(tài)功能區(qū)、“中國天然氧吧”、浙江省生態(tài)文明建設示范縣等;獲評2020年省級新時代美麗鄉(xiāng)村示范縣、“中國特色旅游最佳濕地”,被農(nóng)業(yè)農(nóng)村部列為“中國美麗田園”和“國家濕地公園”試點,被美國CNN評為中國最美的40個景點之一。
云和梯田 四季各異
云和梯田最早開發(fā)于唐初,總面積51平方公里,主要分布在云和縣崇頭鎮(zhèn)周圍高山上,海拔跨度為200~1400多米,垂直高度1200多米,是華東最大的梯田群,素有“千年歷史、千米落差、千層梯田”之稱,被攝影界譽為“中國最美梯田”。
此處,日出時,紅霞滿天、云霧滾動、竹影婆娑,身臨其境,如入世外桃源;滿坡的梯田,波光粼粼,金燦燦、亮閃閃,好似一架架直上云霄的天梯,一派美不勝收的壯麗畫卷;日落時,山村、樹林、牧童披著金色的紗巾,千山萬壑,如詩如畫,讓人贊不絕口。
云和梯田一年四季景觀各異:春來水滿田疇,如串串銀鏈掛山間;夏日佳禾吐翠,似層層綠浪排蒼穹;金秋,稻穗沉甸甸,像座座金塔頂玉宇;隆冬,雪兆豐年,若片片白玉砌云端。其中,“云海奇觀”和“冰雪世界”是云和梯田的一大特色與亮點(云和梯田可以說是世界上僅有的擁有雪景的梯田)。
賞綠水青山,更要品味風土人情。云和梯田開犁習俗由來已久,有史料記載,早年云和衙門的官員每年春耕開始之際,都要到城郊的“先農(nóng)壇”,由縣官帶頭親自下田耕地,以示官府對農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn)的重視。云和梯田開犁節(jié)約定俗成的一整套祭祀儀式完整地留存至今,祭祀場面隆重,表演大多較自由,集祭神與娛人于一體。
目前云和梯田景區(qū)順利通過文旅部景觀質(zhì)量評審,成為改革開放以來全省取得5A級景區(qū)創(chuàng)建“入場券”的第22家景區(qū)。梯田創(chuàng)5A項目也被列入省文旅廳與麗水市文旅金名片共建合作項目,成為省文旅廳重點支持的5A創(chuàng)建項目。
為了讓游客更便捷地感受到山清水秀的云和盛景,云和梯田一級游客接待中心正在緊張有序地建設中。該項目位于崇頭鎮(zhèn)梅源村大丘田區(qū)塊,總用地面積約114畝,總建筑面積約26066平方米,總投資約1.5億元,建設集游客咨詢集散、梯田博物館、餐飲購物、旅游宣傳、停車接待和醫(yī)療服務為一體的旅游綜合服務中心,配套500個生態(tài)停車位。該項目于2019年6月開工建設,計劃于2021年11月完工,目前已完成主樓主體工程,正在進行外立面幕墻裝飾裝修。
鄉(xiāng)村振興 長汀樣本
長汀建村已有400多年歷史,據(jù)族譜記載,長汀祖先于明代從福建汀州武平縣遷居到此,因此移用長汀縣之名作為村名。走進長汀村,一邊是古樸靜謐的農(nóng)房,白墻黛瓦,一邊是時尚休閑的沙灘,陽光、藍天、白云,沙灘、沙雕、碧水,沙灘上隨處可見興奮的小孩、玩自拍的年輕人,使得小村生機勃勃。
2016年初,石塘鎮(zhèn)政府在充分調(diào)研的基礎上,根據(jù)長汀村湖面開闊、有海的視角、水岸線長且水位穩(wěn)定等特點,決定無中生有造“海景”。當年5月1日,投資200萬元,長約1公里、平均寬度為30米的長汀沙灘建成迎客,以“新奇特”成為省內(nèi)外游客持續(xù)關注的熱點,并成為全市首批AAA級景區(qū)村。
長汀沙灘帶動了鄉(xiāng)村振興、村民致富。長汀村現(xiàn)任村委會主任徐宇軍貸款50多萬元,開起了全村首家農(nóng)家樂民宿,做起了第一個吃螃蟹的人,第一年收入便達60多萬元。在他的帶動下,村民紛紛回鄉(xiāng)興辦農(nóng)家樂、民宿和從事沙灘服務行業(yè)。
村民王秀華在北京打工多年,租住的是房東陸紅波的房子。有一天,王秀華對陸紅波說,自己的家鄉(xiāng)長汀村非常漂亮,建議陸紅波抽空去玩一趟。陸紅波果然去了,并被長汀村的青山綠水所吸引。之后,陸紅波主動提出租下王秀華在長汀的老屋并改建成了民宿。
如今,全村農(nóng)家樂、民宿從零起步已發(fā)展到13家。之前是80%的村民在外務工創(chuàng)業(yè),現(xiàn)在則是80%的村民回鄉(xiāng)創(chuàng)業(yè),村民年收入從1.4萬元增加到3.4萬元,已累計接待游客300多萬人次,實現(xiàn)鄉(xiāng)村旅游收入4500多萬元,村集體累計創(chuàng)收430萬元。
2018年,長汀村又建成了游船碼頭、游客接待中心、生態(tài)停車場、沙灘棧道等項目,全面提升景區(qū)旅游設施和功能,一舉創(chuàng)成國家AAA級景區(qū)。針對村域生產(chǎn)生活基礎設施和旅游配套設施存在的不足,長汀村今年還啟動了長汀休閑驛站、長汀沙灘帳篷酒店、長汀到北溪橋環(huán)湖綠道等龍頭項目建設,正在加快推進長汀村趙岸至景區(qū)道路拓寬工程、長汀至大源口古道等項目,打造更加開放的美麗經(jīng)濟交通走廊。
玫瑰小鎮(zhèn) 浪漫赤石
赤石鄉(xiāng)位于云和縣西北部,距縣城15公里,緊鄰龍泉、松陽,鄉(xiāng)域面積約124平方公里。八百里甌江,在仙霞嶺與洞宮山脈碰撞形成的褶皺中一路向東、奔流入海,將赤石鄉(xiāng)一分為二、南北呼應。
這里自然資源豐度極佳、特色鮮明,品質(zhì)優(yōu)良,是一座名副其實的天然大氧吧。赤石“玫瑰小鎮(zhèn)”,是遠近聞名的網(wǎng)紅打卡地。小鎮(zhèn)的大街小巷、房前屋后種滿了1000多種玫瑰,一年四季,季季有玫瑰,季季有花香。花季時節(jié),整個小鎮(zhèn)仿佛掩映在玫瑰花海中,浸泡在玫瑰暗香里,引得游人紛至沓來。
望鄉(xiāng)樓,矗立在小鎮(zhèn)臨湖至高點,登斯樓,可眺秋水長天、鷗鷺輕翔;可聞晨鐘暮鼓、漁舟唱晚;可憶水下故園、崢嶸歲月。七星島,由云和湖上的七個小山峰組成,呈北斗七星狀排列,相傳北宋劍川縣令李鳳,致仕途中泊舟七星島下的赤足山,見此地巖色皆赤,風景絕佳,遂定居于此,命名赤石。龍巖洞,位于百米懸崖之下,洞的右側(cè)是“龍巖飛瀑”,瀑布高28米、寬8米,從天然峽口噴薄下注,猶如白練天降,飛珠濺玉。夏洞天龍母洞,為天然巖穴,狀如倒置的畚斗,相傳為龍母所居,洞內(nèi)供奉石刻龍母仙娘神像一尊,有碑刻一方,均為清代制品。麻垟季家古宅,建于清光緒十五年(1889),由當?shù)刎斨骷鞠虻录捌?個兒子所建,共5幢,整體建筑為院落式結(jié)構(gòu),木作精良,雕梁畫棟,古樸大方。
赤石景區(qū),是連接龍泉山、武夷山風景名勝區(qū)與云和梯田、古堰畫鄉(xiāng)、雁蕩山、楠溪江風景名勝區(qū)的中間樞紐,區(qū)位優(yōu)勢得天獨厚。近年來,赤石鄉(xiāng)成功打造“浪漫婚紗”美麗鄉(xiāng)村風景線,積極培育農(nóng)家樂、民宿產(chǎn)業(yè),大力發(fā)展鄉(xiāng)村休閑旅游,助推鄉(xiāng)村振興,以云和湖有機魚為食材,打響“赤石魚頭”品牌。湯白、肉嫩、味美的“赤石魚頭”,是“云味十二道”的主打菜品,曾走上央視《走遍中國》節(jié)目,譽滿全國。而“汀州小吃”,是赤石的另一種傳統(tǒng)美食,另一種鄉(xiāng)愁。
佛兒巖景 霧溪山控
佛兒巖景區(qū)分布于安溪畬族鄉(xiāng)和霧溪畬族鄉(xiāng)境內(nèi),是云和縣主要風景名勝之一,由叮當巖、佛兒巖、天窗洞、百丈巖、一線天、天水窟等巖石組成。區(qū)域面積5平方公里,東西寬2500米,南北寬2000 米,巖石群景點單體分布在佛兒巖山山脊和兩側(cè)山坡,最高海拔785米,相對高度550米,其中以叮當巖、佛兒巖最為著名。
舊志載:“佛兒巖在縣西二十里,上有石卓然喬聳,佛髻宛然。明徐應亨詩‘霧溪山控佛兒巖是也?!碧齑岸磩t為堆石洞,位于山脊尾部山巔處,由數(shù)石堆積而成,其中三石堆砌成一高2米、寬1.5米、深2米的天然六角窗洞,形如懸空天鏡,可與仙都“仙女照鏡”相媲美。居高臨下,煞是壯觀。
景區(qū)東坡為翠綠的毛竹林,西坡為針闊混交林,竹林、樹叢間掩藏著無數(shù)個巖石群,如成群的野獸在竹海中覓食、棲息、奔跑。登臨景區(qū),霧溪水庫、安溪鄉(xiāng)、云和縣城盡收眼簾。游玩后可到山腳黃處畬族村體驗純樸的畬族風情,也可在農(nóng)家樂用餐。
佛兒巖景區(qū)是云和旅游跨越發(fā)展“3610”工程中6個4A級別景區(qū)的重要內(nèi)容,是云和景區(qū)戰(zhàn)略發(fā)展至關重要的一步。景區(qū)按照“一心一核一鎮(zhèn)四村一道”總體布局,以“巨石奇觀·畬鄉(xiāng)圣山”為主題定位,以坪垟崗江南畬族風情文化村、黃處畬寨與佛兒巖奇石景觀為載體,致力打造一個集圣山祈福、文化休閑、山地運動、古道游賞等為一體的畬鄉(xiāng)文化旅游示范樣板和國家4A級旅游景區(qū)。
十里云河 奇霧鎖湖
云和湖,位于云和縣北部,是緊水灘、石塘、玉溪水電站建成后形成的仙宮湖、龍廷湖、玉溪湖的總稱,為省級森林公園。云和湖跨越蓮都、云和、龍泉三縣(區(qū))市,湖長90公里,水域面積50多平方公里,云和段有庫灣31個、大小島嶼16個。
湖區(qū)四周有“夏洞天”“龍眼洞”“九潭十八灣”等名山洞府;有“插花殿”、“魁星樓”、“官坑殿”、“蟬巖寺”等古剎名樓;宋元古窯遺址和出土國家一級文物戰(zhàn)國時期的寶劍等古文化遺址;有浙南第一壩——三心雙曲大壩全國第一座自動電腦管理的石塘電站及公路隧道等現(xiàn)代建設成果;有別具一格的畬族村寨和客家文化風情;有錦屏山周恩來總理視察紀念碑和方山嶺抗戰(zhàn)遺跡等革命紀念地和愛國主義教育基地。湖中有“開心島”“聚仙島”“七星島”等大小島嶼,兩岸茂林修竹,以針闊混交林為主,森林覆蓋率在80%以上。
云和湖是浙江省第二大有機魚養(yǎng)殖基地,所處的甌江水系有魚類111種,隸屬13目33科83屬,其中主要經(jīng)濟魚類有鯉科喀氏倒刺鈀(軍魚)、臺灣突吻魚(魚姑)、溫州光唇鈀(石斑魚)、鯉魚、鯽魚、草魚、青魚等以及鯰魚、鰻、烏鱧、桂魚、黃顙魚、香魚、甌江黿等33種。
云和湖景色層疊,波光、云影、舟船、水鳥、木排、竹筏風光和堤岸、公路、汽車和村莊、田野、群山組成淳樸、秀逸、舒展、清麗的空間格局。在寒冬季節(jié),云和湖水由于湖壩的高差產(chǎn)生上下湖水溫的明顯差異,在早晨即會有層層濃霧籠罩在湖面上,遠看似云海般,成一奇物景色,故有“云和湖奇霧”之美譽,是游覽、度假、避暑、探幽、休閑的勝地。
2011年,云和縣在云和湖建成以水電科普游覽、休閑垂釣、度假養(yǎng)生為主的綜合型景區(qū)——云和湖仙宮景區(qū),其中包括以水電科普為主題的觀光游覽線,以垂釣、水上運動為主題的仙宮漁樂線,以甌江帆影、佛教文化和船幫文化為主題的“十里云河”游線。景區(qū)內(nèi)有浙西南第一座無動力滑索,國內(nèi)第一座可隨水位自動伸縮的仙宮浮橋等水上娛樂項目,是麗水市攝影家協(xié)會攝影創(chuàng)作基地和自駕車旅游指定景區(qū)。2011年12月,仙宮景區(qū)被評為國家AAAA級旅游景區(qū)。
“Peaceful clouds”. That is how CNN explained the meaning of Yunhe, when it listed the county as one of the “40 beautiful places to visit in China” back in 2012. Covering an area of 984 square kilometers, Yunhe county is 50 kilometers southwest of Lishui city in southwestern Zhejiang. With the Oujiang River winding through Yunhes misty mountains, hills and valleys, travelers will be forgiven for believing they have walked into a dreamy painting.
Thanks to its well-preserved ecology, Yunhe has not only witnessed booming development in tourism, but won a series of accolades in the process, including “Natural Oxygen Zone of?China”, “Best Wetland of Chinas Featured Tourism”, and “Chinas Beautiful Countryside”, among others.
More than Scenery: Yunhe Rice Terraces
Yunhe rice terraces have been home to farmers since the early Tang dynasty (618-907), covering an area of 51 square kilometers, the largest in East China. Rising up to 1,400 meters and dropping to as low as 200 meters, they are regarded as one of Chinas most beautiful rice terraces by photographers. No wonder: people can easily capture a variety of perfect shots, from any angle, on a single day, and in different reasons. In fact, Yunhe is the only place in the world where snowy rice terraces can be seen.
But these rice terraces are more than just scenery, they are also essential to the lives of local farmers and their folk customs. The ploughing ceremony, for example, at the Meiyuan Terrace in Yunhe during mangzhong, or Grain in Ear (the ninth solar term in the Chinese lunar calendar), marks the first plough of the year. A tradition that has been practiced in Yunhe for about 1,000 years, it is performed annually to pray for a good harvest in the forthcoming year.
Rural Revitalization: The Changting Model
When Xu Yujun borrowed half a million yuan to start to build the first guesthouse in Changting village in October 2015, he was not sure whether the “gamble” would pay off. But within a year, the revenue already reached 600,000. In retrospect, Xu, who is also the Party secretary of Changting village, seemed destined for success. With more developed transportation and stronger government support for village tourism, all the 400-year-old Changting village needed was a nudge.
In early 2016, just a few months after Xus move, the local government began creating a “seaside-style beach” along part of the Yunhe Lake in the village. The one-kilometer man-made beach opened to tourists on May 1, 2016 and proved to be a big hit. And for Xu, the rest, as they say, is history. Over the next few years, more tourist facilities and services have been added and fellow villagers have been following Xus footsteps. By now, Changting boasts 13 guesthouses, 80% of the villagers who used to work in cities have returned to start a business, and their annual incomes have almost tripled. More plans to upgrade Changtings tourism are in store and a bright future undoubtedly awaits.
A Sea of Roses: Chishi Township
The stronger the scent of romance, the nearer one comes to Chishi, a small town about 15 kilometers to the northwest of Yunhe county proper. More than 1,000 different types of roses have been planted along the main thoroughfare, in the alleys, around the houses…. When they bloom, the whole town is bathed in a sea of roses, their fragrance attracting and intoxicating throngs of tourists. Over the years, Chishi has become a must-visit for social media influencers and particularly those couples who seek to capture the best moments for their wedding photos.
As the Oujiang River cuts the town into the northern and southern parts, Chishi is also known for its natural beauty. Ascend the Building of Looking Homeward (Wangxiang Lou) on the lakeside, and enjoy the splendid view; land on Seven Stars Islands (Qixing Dao), seven small peaks in the shape of the Big Dipper across the Yunhe Lake, and appreciate the red crags, which is how the town Chishi (literally “red rock”) was named; and “plunge” into the Dragon Cave (Longyan Dong), over 100 meters below a cliff, and brave yourself? for the 28-meter-high Dragon Waterfall… Finally, never forget the food, especially the now nationally recognized “Chishi Fish Head”.
Boulders and Crags: Foeryan Scenic Area
Spread between Anxi She ethnic township and Wuxi She ethnic township, Foeryan Scenic Area is one of the main scenic spots in Yunhe county. Covering an area of five square kilometers, it features a cluster of boulders and crags, some of which can be as high as 550 meters and rise to 785 meters above the sea level. Among them, the Dingdang Crag(Dingdangyan) and the Foer Crag (Foeryan, hence the name of the scenic area) are the most famous.
Groups of small boulders and crags are hidden in the bamboo and mixed coniferous forest on the east and west slopes of the area, as if packs of wild animals are foraging, resting and running. On top of the sceneries, tourists can get a taste of the ethnic customs of the She people in the nearby Huangchu She village.
Misty Clouds: Yunhe Lake
In the north of Yunhe county lies Yunhe Lake. A provincial forest park, Yunhe Lake is in fact a general name for the three bodies of water of Xiangong Lake, Longting Lake and Yuxi Lake, which covers an area of more than 50 square kilometers. It is the second largest breeding base of organic fishes in Zhejiang province, home to 111 different kinds of fishes.
During winter mornings, layers upon layers of thick fog would shroud the lake, thanks to differences in water temperature between the dammed upper part and the lower part. From afar, it is as if the lake is floating right below a sea of clouds, creating a view only to be found in a dreamscape.