反山墓地。

這片山林環(huán)繞之地，依山傍水，和中國江南水鄉(xiāng)的風(fēng)貌沒有什么不同。

然而，一個實證中華五千年文明史的圣地，就掩埋于這片山林之下，華夏歷史在這里改變。

它有一個動聽的名字——良渚。

五千年前的良渚古城被稱作“中華第一城”，內(nèi)城面積近300萬平方米，相當(dāng)于4個故宮。她代表的不僅僅是一座城，而是一個古代王國。遙遠(yuǎn)的良渚時代，有一支訓(xùn)練有素的隊伍，夜以繼日地協(xié)力建設(shè)家國。

格局：三重向心式

老虎嶺水壩，專家在觀察地層疊壓關(guān)系。

良渚古城由4個相對獨立的遺址片區(qū)組成，完整包含了良渚先民建造的規(guī)模宏大的城址、功能復(fù)雜的外圍水利系統(tǒng)、層級復(fù)雜的分等級墓地和祭壇、以具有信仰與制度象征的系列玉器為代表的出土器物等人工遺存，以及與人工遺存具有直接關(guān)聯(lián)的自然山水等歷史環(huán)境要素。

古城采用三重向心式布局，最中心的是莫角山宮殿區(qū)，是整個古城的核心區(qū);宮殿區(qū)外面是內(nèi)城和外城。良渚古城的這一布局，與后世都城“宮城、皇城、郭城”的三重結(jié)構(gòu)體系十分類似，是早期都城規(guī)劃的典范。

古城是一座水城，由城墻圍合而成，面積約3平方公里。城墻上發(fā)現(xiàn)9座城門，其中8座為水門。水門是城墻被河道隔開的地方。四通八達(dá)的水門，將城墻內(nèi)外縱橫交錯的古河道串聯(lián)起來，人員物資通過這里往來于城內(nèi)城外。古城南部，這條今天被稱為良渚港的主要河道，在這片土地上已經(jīng)靜靜流淌了5000年。

在南城墻中部位置，墻體有一處明顯的缺口，這里沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)墊石和古河道的遺跡，是良渚古城的一處陸地城門。

除南城墻無外城河外，其余三面城墻均有內(nèi)、外城河，形成夾河筑城的模式。城內(nèi)、外河道經(jīng)過水門相接，構(gòu)成內(nèi)外水網(wǎng)與水路交通體系。

內(nèi)城：權(quán)力的中心

莫角山的宮殿

宮殿區(qū)位居古城中央，包括莫角山及其南側(cè)的皇墳山、池中寺三處臺地。面積約39公頃。

良渚古城遺址水門圖。

莫角山臺地呈矩形覆斗狀，東西長670米、南北寬450米，面積約30公頃，是古城內(nèi)體量最大的人工臺地。

相對高度9米的臺地頂面上建有大莫角山、小莫角山、烏龜山三座獨立的宮殿臺基，大面積夯筑而成的沙土廣場，以及35座房屋基址，是良渚古國最高統(tǒng)治者的居住和活動場所。

考古發(fā)現(xiàn)，在莫角山宮殿區(qū)東面的鐘家港古河道內(nèi)，數(shù)根用于莫角山宮殿建造的大型木構(gòu)件，可以想見當(dāng)年那些建筑的宏大規(guī)模。

莫角山宮殿區(qū)位于整個古城的正中心，占據(jù)了古城1/10的面積，堪稱中國最早的宮城，也是規(guī)模最大的史前宮殿區(qū)。

今天，站在大莫角山上，古城內(nèi)外盡收眼底。天目山的余脈大雄山和大遮山，為古城提供了南北兩道天然的屏障。大莫角山是整個宮殿區(qū)地勢最高的地方，是城內(nèi)的制高點，總面積有2萬平方米，君臨天下之感，撲面而來，這是王者或權(quán)貴才能擁有的統(tǒng)治者的視野，體現(xiàn)了王者居中居高的特點。

你可以把它想象成故宮的太和殿，太和殿的面積為1200多平方米。但5000年前，良渚人就已經(jīng)能建造這么大的宮殿建筑。

遺憾的是，木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑不易保存，輝煌的宮殿已經(jīng)灰飛煙滅，但我們依舊可以感受到一個存在于5300年前到4300年前的古代王國，曾經(jīng)何等輝煌。

莫角山西南的池中寺臺地，經(jīng)考古發(fā)現(xiàn)有超過10萬公斤的炭化稻谷遺存，是良渚古城內(nèi)大型糧倉的所在，反映出良渚古城的糧食儲備和管理能力，以及當(dāng)時城市的人口規(guī)模。

反山的王陵

古城內(nèi)外分布著一些分等級墓地，其中最具代表性的有5處，它們分別是代表最高等級的反山、瑤山墓地，較高等級的姜家山墓地，中等級的文家山墓地和低等級的卞家山墓地。

這些分等級墓地與歷年來環(huán)太湖地區(qū)陸續(xù)發(fā)現(xiàn)的其它良渚文化分等級墓地一起，構(gòu)成了良渚社會高低懸殊、層級復(fù)雜的階層分化，為良渚古國的出現(xiàn)，提供了社會分化方面的證據(jù)。

反山墓地是迄今所見良渚文化乃至整個中國史前文化中出土玉器數(shù)量最多、種類最為齊全的高等級墓地。它位于內(nèi)城的西北部，東側(cè)與莫角山宮殿區(qū)相鄰，是一處依托其西部自然崗地人工特意堆筑形成的獨立的高臺墓地。墓地平面略呈橢圓形，人工堆筑的高度超過7米，面積約2公頃。

其中，反山12號墓位于墓地中央位置，該墓地出土的 “琮王”、“鉞王” 、玉璧、豪華權(quán)杖的玉端飾、成組錐形器、三叉形器、環(huán)鐲、管珠……等玉器，顯露出墓主人的特殊身份。這是良渚文化等級規(guī)格最高的一處墓地，是良渚王的陵墓。王陵內(nèi)現(xiàn)已發(fā)掘的11座墓葬規(guī)劃有序，出土了1200余件玉、石、陶、象牙、漆器，其中玉器占90%。

瑤山祭壇壘石包邊的拐角，整齊，結(jié)實。土臺以下的山體也以石坎修整，呈階梯狀。當(dāng)年的良渚人便從這里拾階而上。

外城：平民的日常

古城的發(fā)展是動態(tài)的。隨著人口的增加，城內(nèi)的生活空間不夠用了，為了擴大居住用地，人們在淤塞的河道上和城外的沼澤地繼續(xù)堆筑黃土，形成新的生活區(qū)。

在內(nèi)城的外圍，17處長條形人工臺地，斷續(xù)鏈接，共同構(gòu)成了“C形”的外城郭，構(gòu)成了面積約351公頃的半封閉形態(tài)，今天稱為外城。外城臺地上分布著許多普通村落，有平民墓地、手工作坊和生活居住址等不同功能分區(qū)。

美人地遺址位于外城西面，地勢低平。先民在下層堆筑青灰色淤泥，上層堆筑細(xì)密的黃土，其上再建筑房屋。這里發(fā)現(xiàn)的一排木板護坡遺跡，底部放置了墊木，防止下陷，再在墊木上豎立木板。

良渚先民臨水而居，當(dāng)時的河道兩岸分布著成排房屋和臨水碼頭，先民乘獨木舟、竹筏穿梭其間。這種五千年前的江南景觀，一直傳承至今。

外城南部卞家山村落，是一處帶有水岸碼頭的聚落，南部為生活居址。村落南側(cè)臨水，水岸邊發(fā)現(xiàn)木樁140余個，分三排沿河岸有序排列，是棧橋的木樁。另一排木樁徑直向水面伸展，是碼頭遺址的木樁基礎(chǔ)。還發(fā)現(xiàn)有木槳，由此得知此處為良渚晚期的水埠及木構(gòu)碼頭。

北部的卞家山墓地是典型的良渚平民墓地，共發(fā)現(xiàn)了墓葬 66 座，墓中隨葬品平均不超過10件。文家山墓地，是一處不同等級墓葬同存的中等級家族墓地，遺址中還出土有不少石器制作過程中產(chǎn)生的廢棄物，表明附近應(yīng)有石器加工作坊。

城郊的祭壇

古城東北部的郊區(qū)約5公里處是瑤山墓地。這是一處高等級墓地，具有壇墓一體的結(jié)構(gòu)特征。

在現(xiàn)存的瑤山頂部，沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)生活遺跡或遺物，紅土臺、灰土圍溝、礫石面等遺跡邊壁平齊，轉(zhuǎn)角方正，布局規(guī)整，連圍溝內(nèi)的灰色填土，也是特意從山外搬運來的?？梢姡@是一項經(jīng)過精心設(shè)計、認(rèn)真施工、具有特定用途的建筑。瑤山遺址，比古城、水壩營建的時間都要早。

實測發(fā)現(xiàn)，日出的方向與祭壇四角所指方位驚人一致。可見，當(dāng)年良渚人在這里進(jìn)行莊嚴(yán)的儀式，也觀測星象。

祭壇廢棄之后，變成了埋葬貴族的高等級墓地，13座大墓，C位11號墓葬的是良渚王的女人——良渚王后。

在瑤山墓葬的玉器中，發(fā)現(xiàn)了完整的神人獸面像，這是良渚人唯一的LOGO。圖案上部，是頭戴“介”字形羽冠的人的形象，下部是圓圓的眼睛、露出獠牙的猛獸的面目，下肢作蹲踞狀，還有飛禽的利爪。這是良渚部族崇拜的“神徽”。

另外，在良渚古城郊區(qū)，還有許多建在水邊低地的普通聚落，體現(xiàn)了當(dāng)時社會已出現(xiàn)了明顯的城鄉(xiāng)分界，廟前遺址就是其中之一。這里發(fā)現(xiàn)了多處房址、墓葬、窖穴、木構(gòu)水井等遺跡。

水利：中國第一壩

中華文明幾千年的歷史，從某種意義上說就是一部治水史。

良渚古城反山王陵。

據(jù)記載，新中國成立前2155年間，中國發(fā)生較大洪水災(zāi)害1092次;黃河在歷史上曾決口泛濫1500多次。

先于“大禹治水”近千年，良渚水利系統(tǒng)是中國迄今發(fā)現(xiàn)的最早的大型水利工程遺址，也是世界上迄今發(fā)現(xiàn)的最早的堤壩系統(tǒng)之一。

良渚地處太湖平原，位于暴雨中心，海拔僅2米多高，易發(fā)洪澇災(zāi)害。良渚古城外圍有大型多功能水利系統(tǒng)，是古城規(guī)劃的重要組成部分。

水利系統(tǒng)位于古城西北，由谷口高壩、平原低壩、山前長堤與自然丘陵圍合而成，規(guī)劃有致，規(guī)模宏大，嘆為觀止。

谷口高壩發(fā)現(xiàn)的6條水壩，分東西兩組，東組包括崗公嶺、老虎嶺、周家畈，西組包括秋塢、石塢、蜜蜂壟，每組各自封堵一個較高山體中的較大谷口。

平原低壩發(fā)現(xiàn)獅子山、鯉魚山、官山、梧桐弄4條堤壩，并通過自然崗地與山前長堤連接成一體。山前長堤長約5公里，是水利系統(tǒng)中最大的單體遺存。

整個水利系統(tǒng)東西兩端相距11公里，南北相距5.5公里，總占地面積76.2公頃。

堤壩有效保護良渚古城及周邊稻田不受直接沖擊。防洪的同時，能夠在山谷高地和平原低地內(nèi)進(jìn)行蓄水。

大量水資源的存蓄，形成連接多個山谷的水運網(wǎng)絡(luò)，起到調(diào)節(jié)河道水位的作用，為古城的水運交通和日常用水提供保障。同時，來自于天目山的豐富石料、木材，以及動植物等資源，可以通過水路運輸?shù)竭_(dá)古城。

Liangzhu：Chinas Number One City 5，000 Years Ago

The ancient Liangzhu City is now considered Chinas number once city five thousand years ago. The Inner City which includes the palace area measures nearly 3 million square meters， four times the Forbidden City， the magnificent palace complex of the Ming and the Qing dynasties in Beijing. The Liangzhu City is more than an urban center. It represents an ancient state. Archaeological evidences indicate that the grand city was constructed on the basis of a well-conceived plan over a long time and by a large number of people well trained and well coordinated.

良渚古城區(qū)域分布圖。

1.City Layout：

Centripetal Triple Format

The Liangzhu City comprises four relatively separate sites， which combine to the city site， the peripheral water conservancy system， graded cemeteries and altars， a system of jade artifacts that present power and faith， and the environment of river networks and adjacent mountains which were closely associated with the city itself.

The city adopts a centripetal triple format. In the very heart of the city is the palace complex. The Inner City encircles the palace complex and the Outer City surrounds the Inner City. As this centripetal triple format can be seen in many subsequent capital cities of dynasties in Chinese history， the ancient Liangzhu City can be considered the prototype of early urban planning for construction of a capital.

The walled Liangzhu City is protected by water. The city is accessed by eight water gates and one land gate. The water gates connect a complex of watercourses within and without， conducive to the transportation of people and goods. Liangzhugang， a local river to the south of the site of the ancient city， has existed for more than 5，000 years. In the center of the southern section of the city wall is an opening where no trace of foundation rocks and ancient watercourse can be detected. Apparently the opening is a land gate. The southern city wall doesnt stand in water. The other three sides of the city wall are all flanked by rivers on the either side. The rivers form a network that connects the inside and the outside.

2.Inner City： Center of Power

The palace complex is in the very center of the ancient city including Mojiaoshan， Huangfenshan and Chizhongsi， three terraces that add up to about 390，000 square meters in area. The Mojiaoshan terrace accounts for the one tenth of the ancient city. It is Chinas most ancient palace site and biggest prehistoric palace complex.

To the north and the south stands Daxiong Mountain and Dazhe Mountain， part of the Tianmu Mountain Range. The two mountains form a natural protection to shelter the capital city of Liangzhu. The 20，000-square-meter Big Mojiaoshan is the tallest place in the city from where the supreme ruler could have a commanding view of his state. From this place one could imagine the magnificent ancient state that flourished for ten centuries from 5，300 to 4，300 years ago.

The Chizhongsi Terrace， to the southwest of Mojiaoshan， is home to a large-scale granary， as evidenced by 100，000 kilograms of charred rice found there by archaeologists. The granary and its scale enable people of today to take a look at the cereal storage and administration and the population within the city of that time.

Fanshan Royal Cemetery

紅土臺。

There are graded cemeteries within and without the ancient capital city of Liangzhu. Five cemeteries are singled out of the cemeteries to represent the social hierarchy of the Liangzhu society. The Fanshan and Yaoshan cemeteries are sacred places for the highest class of the society. The Jiangjiashan cemetery is for nobles. The Wenjiashan cemetery and the Bianjiashan cemetery respectively cater to the middle and low classes of the Liangzhu society.

These cemeteries as well as those unearthed in recent years around the Taihu Lake area combine to constitute a social hierarchy of the Liangzhu state. The cemeteries are material evidence of the social differentiation five thousand years ago.

The Fanshan cemetery is a top-class graveyard which yielded the largest quantity of jade artifacts， which can be categorized into a complete system. Such a large quantity of jades in such a complete system has never been seen anywhere else in prehistoric China. Located in the northwest of the Inner City and next to the Mojiaoshan Palace Complex， the cemetery spread on a 7-meter-tall and 20，000-square-meter manmade terrace. The royal status of the dead buried in Tomb 12 is corroborated by a large galaxy of top jade artifacts. No other tombs unearthed so far in Liangzhu yielded such supremely-made grave goods. Archaeologists agree that buried in the tomb is the supreme ruler of Liangzhu State.

3.Outer City：

Commoners Everyday Life

The Outer City is composed of 17 manmade long terraces which are arrayed in the shape of C. The semi-closed area is now known as the Outer City， home to many settlements with cemeteries， handicraft workshops and living quarters. All the settlements are located by rivers. Rows of houses and docks flank a river and local residents move around by canoe. Such a lifestyle can still be seen today in Jiangnan， a vast region in the south of the Yangtze River Delta.

The settlement at Bianjiashan in the south of the Outer City is typical of the living arrangement. The south of the settlement borders the river. Three rows of wood piles stand orderly along the riverside. The wooden piles support a trestle bridge. One row of wood piles extends into the river. This row of wood piles supports a pier where goods are loaded and unloaded. The cemetery attached to this settlement has 66 tombs. Burial objects from these tombs average fewer than 10 per tomb and the burial objects differentiate men and women. It was a cemetery of low-class commoners. The Wenjiashan cemetery is a middle-class cemetery where people from different classes are somewhat mixed.

4.Suburban Altars

At the Yaoshan Site， 5 kilometers northeast of the city， is a top-class cemetery. The site holds a cemetery and an altar. The top of Yaoshan shows no sign of anybody ever living there. A truncated-pyramid-shaped altar formed of three earthen circles varied in color and surrounded by a stone revetment. Atop the altar are 12 large-sized Liangzhu Culture tombs similar to those discovered at Fanshan. The Yaoshan Site is a manmade structure， which is much older than the capital city and the dam system. When it was first made， it served as an altar. It probably also served as an astronomical observation platform. After the site was scrapped as an altar， it became a cemetery. Of the unearthed jade objects is a piece adorned with a sacred human and animal face motif， which is considered the logo of the Liangzhu Culture.

In relatively remote suburbs of Liangzhu City are many settlements in riverside lowlands， portraying the distinct urban-rural divide of the society. The Miaoqian Site is such a low-grade settlement where houses， tombs， underground storages and wood-structured wells are found.

5.The Water Conservancy System： Number One Dam of ancient China

It is said that the history of China of several thousand years is a history of water control. Historical records show that during 2，155 years before 1949， flood disasters on large scale occurred 1，092 times and that the dikes of the Yellow River burst more than 1，500 times. The water conservancy system excavated in Liangzhu is about 1，000 years older than the flood control project carried out by the legendary Yu the Great. The water control system of the Liangzhu Culture is Chinas earliest large-scale water conservancy engineering undertaking and one of the worlds earliest dam systems.

Located in the Taihu Lake Plain and just 2 meters above sea level， Liangzhu could easily fall a victim to floods. The capital city of Liangzhu is surrounded by a large-scale multifunctional water conservancy system， which is a key component of the urban planning of Liangzhu.

莫角山宮殿區(qū)。

Situated to the northwest of the city， the system comprises high-dams at the mouth of the valley， low-dams on the plain， causeways in front of mountains， and the natural foothills. They form a closed water-control system， presenting an elaborate and amazing planning and engineering.

There are six high-dams at the mouth of the valley. The six dams are in two separate sets， each blocking a valley. On the plain are four low dams connected with causeways. The total length is 5 kilometers， the largest single structure in the system.

The water conservancy system stretches 11 kilometers from east to west and 5.5 kilometers from south to north. The dams effectively protect the city and the rice farmlands from the direct onslaught of floods issued from the mountains. The water conservancy system also functions as a reservoir， which in turn adjusts the water level of the river network. The system ensures daily water supply for the city and makes it possible for stone and timber and other mountain resources shipped out to the city from the Tianmu Mountain Range.