周道 何芷翌

漠河，一座遙遠而又神秘的北方邊陲小城，被稱為中國最北部的“神州北極”。中俄界江黑龍江從這里發(fā)源，蜿蜒東流。人們因“極光”而知道她，因“最北”來尋覓她，因“幽靜淳樸”去想念她。

Mohe， a distant and enigmatic small town situated on the northern border， has earned thenickname of “China’s North Pole”. The Heilongjiang River， which marks the boundary betweenChina and Russia， originates here and meanders eastward. Travelers are drawn to Mohe by hermesmerizing “aurora”， lured by her claim as the “northernmost” point and captivated by her sereneand unpretentious charm.

夏季的漠河，沒有了白雪皚皚的夢幻，涼爽宜人。據(jù)氣象歷史數(shù)據(jù)顯示，漠河的日均氣溫僅17℃。探訪漠河，龍江第一灣必不可少。漠河的母親河是額爾古納河，她在漠河的洛古河村西北15 公里處與俄羅斯方向流過來的石勒喀河匯合，成為黑龍江的源頭。滾滾的黑龍江沿著內(nèi)、外興安嶺交界處的低谷，一路東流150 公里后，形成一個長度約30 公里的Ω 形弧度江灣，絕佳的地形讓雄渾的江水急轉(zhuǎn)回流、呼嘯而去，阻擋江水的一側(cè)壁立千仞、懸崖萬丈，于是造就了與黃河、長江相媲美的龍江第一灣，也是中國最美九大江灣之一。

During the summer months， Mohe sheds its snowyand dreamlike appearance and instead offers a cooland pleasant climate. Historical weather data revealsthat Mohe experiences an average daily temperature ofjust 17℃. No trip to Mohe would be complete withoutvisiting the First Bend of the Heilongjiang River. TheArgun River serves as the mother river of Mohe，merging with the Shilka River flowing from Russia atLuogu River village， located 15 kilometers northwestof Mohe. This confluence marks the origin of theHeilongjiang River， which flows through the valley atthe junction of the Inner and Outer Khingan Range.After a 150-kilometer journey eastward， the river formsa stunning -shaped bend stretching for about 30kilometers. The landscape gives rise to a majestic sight，as the mighty river abruptly turns back and rushes forthwith towering cliffs on one side， creating the magnificent“First Bend of theHeilongjiang River”.this remarkable bendrivals the grandeurof China’s famousYellow River andYangtze River bends，earning its place asone of the country’smost stunning nineriver bends.

由于獨特的地理位置，當夏至來臨時，漠河晝長夜短，有接近19 個小時的日照。從加漠公路前往北極村，路旁筆直、秀朗的白樺樹連成了一片，穿行于其間，感受著北國的靜謐與安詳，仿佛行走于自己的心靈之壁。美麗的額木爾河虬臥在寬闊的山谷中，在藍天白云下蜿蜒曲折地流淌，形成了天然濕地美景“九曲十八彎”，這是大自然最美的饋贈。沿途風景就是旅行者和攝影者的打卡勝地。

Due to Mohe’s unique geographical location， thesummer solstice brings about long days and short nights，with nearly 19 hours of sunlight in the day. As youtake the Jiagedaqi-Mohe highway to the Beiji Village，an enchanting sight unfolds before you： a continuousstretch of straight， beautiful white birch trees liningthe road. Strolling amidst these trees， you can’t helpbut sense the tranquility and serenity of the northernregion， almost as if traversing the very depths of yourown soul. The picturesque Emur River fiows through thewide valley， meanderingunder the vast expanseof the blue sky andwhite clouds， forminga mesmerizing naturalwetland known as “NineCurves and EighteenTurns”. It’s a breathtakinggi f t f rom nature， amust-see destinationfor both travelers andphotographers alike.

以“北”著稱的北極村，沒有人群的喧囂，炊煙裊裊，云霞漫天，張開手臂，整個中國都在你的懷抱。這里是中國唯一能欣賞“北極光”之地。每年夏至（6 月21 日前后）的午夜時分，向北眺望，如果天氣好的話，便能看到天空微微泛白，午夜恍若黎明。有時，晚霞未逝，朝云又起，異彩紛呈，絢麗多姿。這便是人們所說的“白夜”和“北極光”。

The Beiji Village rests in a serene， remote northlandwhere the hustle and bustle of crowds fade away，replaced by wisps of smoke rising from chimneys， andthe sky seemingly stretching into eternity. Standinghere， you feel as though you could embrace the entiretyof China with outstretched arms. This place standsas the only location in China where one can marvelat the captivating “aurora borealis”. On the night of the summer solstice （around June 21st）， weatherpermitting， you can gaze northwards and witness afaint brightening of the sky， akin to a midnight dawn.Sometimes， with the lingering evening glow andemerging morning clouds， a kaleidoscope of vibrantcolors illuminates the landscape， creating a splendidspectacle known as the “white nights” and the “auroraborealis”.

打卡北極村，可不僅僅是為了觀賞極光。來這里找“北”，這里有著許多中國的“最北點”。每一座山、每一條路都是“北”的盡頭。中國最北教堂，在這里和你愛的人許下誓言，用一生來珍藏；中國最北郵局，從這里把最美漠河的回憶寄給自己；中國最北人家，留下來住一住木刻楞房，睡一睡熱炕頭……

However， the charm of the Beiji Village extendsbeyond the aurora. The village serves as a gateway tocountless northernmost points in China， with everymountain and road leading to the farthest reaches ofthe north. At China’s northernmost church， you canmake vows with your beloved， cherishing them for alifetime. At China’s northernmost post offce， you cansend your fondest memories of Mohe to yourself. Andat China’s northernmost homes， you can experiencethe cozy comfort of wooden log cabins and rest upon aheated kang （a stove-bed）...

你以為這就打卡了漠河？還不夠。漠河石林是中國最北的石林，平均海拔1 200 米，綿延35 公里。大林河、古蓮河、阿巴河、烏瑪河及恩和哈達河五條河流發(fā)源于此。北緯53°的寒冷地帶，冬季氣溫可達零下50℃。除了銀裝素裹、美不勝收的雪景，漠河市還擁有中國境內(nèi)最大的冰川——黑河冰川。

Do you think that’sall there is to it， Mohe？Far from it！ Mohe is alsohome to the Mohe StoneForest， the northernmoststone forest in all ofChina， which spans animpressive 35 kilometersat an average elevation of 1，200 meters. It serves as the birthplace of fivemagnificent rivers： the Dalin River， the Gulian River，the Aba River， the Wuma River， and the EnhehadaRiver. Nestled in the frigid zone at an astounding 53°north latitude， Mohe experiences the chill of winterlike few other places. With temperatures plummetingto a bone-chilling —50°C， the region’s snowy landscapesbecome an ethereal sight. Mohe City also proudly boaststhe title of being home to China’s largest glacier —the Heihe Glacier.

滄海桑田，歷史的長河孕育了文化，文化又傳承了民族基因。這里的原住民鄂倫春族諳熟大自然的法則，靠著神秘的薩滿洞悉未知的奧秘。他們有自己的語言，卻沒有文字，用繩索記錄著歷史。鄂倫春族人勇敢堅強，以漁獵為生，他們以魚類、鹿肉、馴鹿肉等為主要食材，制作獨特的美食，如魚丸、鹿肉火鍋等。在漠河，你可以親身體驗漁獵的樂趣，感受這種獨特生活方式的魅力。

With the ebb and flow of time， the vast river ofhistory has nourished culture， and culture， in turn， haskept ethnic spirit intact. the indigenous Oroqen peopleare deeply attuned to the laws of nature， drawing on themystical knowledge of Shaman to unravel enigmaticsecrets. While possessing their own language， they lacka written script; instead， they use ropes to documenttheir history. These brave and resilient Oroqen peoplerely on fishing and hunting as their livelihood. Theirdiet features fish， deer meat， and reindeer meat，from which they skillfully craft unique delicacies likefish balls and deer meat hot pot. In Mohe， you canimmerse yourself in the delight of fishing and hunting，experiencing the allure of this distinctive way of lifefirsthand.

漠河的景點和故事很多，為人所知的又太少。漠河，不僅僅是“極光”“極北”“極寒”的代名詞，這里還有著極寒之下溫熱真摯的情感?！叭绻袝r間，你會來看一看我吧，看大雪如何衰老的，我的眼睛如何融化，如果你看見我的話，請轉(zhuǎn)過身去再驚訝……”2021 年，一首《漠河舞廳》，因其背后那個真實感人的愛情故事，感動了無數(shù)人。故事發(fā)生在1987 年春，大興安嶺發(fā)生了震驚全國的特大森林火災，八級大風讓大火從森林蔓延到漠河縣城。大樹被風連根拔起，房屋瓦片卷入空中，58 000 多名軍人、警察和村民經(jīng)過28 個晝夜的奮力撲救，才將大火撲滅。火災過后，人們在漠河市建了一座“五·六”火災紀念館。館內(nèi)全面展示了從起火、成災、撲火、救災到家園重建、生態(tài)恢復的全過程。

Mohe is a place of abundant attractions anduntold stories that have yet to reach the wider world.Beyond being synonymous with auroras， the extremenorth， and bitter cold， Mohe holds a deep reservoir ofsincere emotions beneath its icy surface. “If you havetime， would you come and see me？ See how the heavysnow ages， how my eyes melt. If you see me， pleaseturn around and then be surprised ...，” in the songcalled “Mohe Dance Hall”， which was released in 2021，the heartfelt and true love story captivated countlesshearts. The song is about the massive forest fire thatravaged the Greater Khingan Range in the spring of 1987 and sent shockwaves throughout the country.Fueled by a level-eight gale， the thre relentlessly spreadto Mohe County， causing havoc as trees were uprootedand roof tiles were swept into the air. More than 58，000soldiers， police oficers， and villagers fought for 28 daysand nights to extinguish the inferno. After the fire， a5/6 Fire Memorial Museum was established in Mohe.Inside the museum， the entire harrowing process ofthe re， from its ignition to disaster， thre suppression，disaster relief， home rebuilding， and ecologicalreconstruction， is painstakingly showcased.

《漠河舞廳》的男主角張德全在這場森林火災中失去了熱愛跳舞的妻子。思念從此就像一把枷鎖，困住了這個用情至深的人。在余后的30 多年，他未婚、無子，他用獨舞這樣的浪漫方式懷念著一生最愛的人：我永遠思念你，你便永遠存在。他用一輩子，在漠河詮釋了真摯、熱烈的愛情。

The song depicts the tale ofZhang Dequan， who tragicallylost his wife， a passionate dancer，in that fire. From that momenton， longing gripped him like ashackle， imprisoning his deeplyaffectionate soul. For morethan three ensuing decades，he remained unmarried andchildless. He turned to the art ofsolo dancing — a poignant andromantic expression to keep thememory of their love alive， “I will forever yearn for you， and you will forever dwell in myheart.” Throughout his journey， he found the essenceof sincere and passionate love amidst the enchantinglandscapes of Mohe.

是時候來漠河了吧？

Isn’t it about time we made a trip to Mohe？

和你摯愛的人來體驗一下十幾個小時的雪國列車，聽一曲周杰倫的《一路向北》，在列車的“哐當”聲中穿越莽莽林海、感受雪國風光，一起目睹極光的絢爛，與馴鹿來一次親密接觸，去擁抱北緯53°的風。

Imagine this： Embark on a picturesque snowycountry train journey that stretches over ten hours，hand in hand with your beloved. As you traverse vastforests and snowy landscapes， Jay Chou’s melodioussong “All the Way North” perfectly harmonizes withthe rhythmic clatter of the train. Witness the aweinspiringspectacle of the Northern Lights， get readyfor an up-close encounter with graceful reindeer， andembrace the winds at 53° north latitude.

看看不輸于貝加爾湖的“冰泡”湖，在茫茫的林海雪原上玩一次時下流行的“滴水成冰”。

Discover the enchantment of the “ice bubbles”lake， a worthy rival to Lake Baikal， and witness waterdroplets freezing amidst the vast snowy forest.

體驗一下馬拉爬犁馳騁雪地的快感，享受一次冰雪奇緣中滑雪的“嗨翻天”。

Race through the snowy terrain on a sled pulled byspirited horses and experience the pure joy of skiing inthis frozen wonderland.

更重要的是和你珍惜的人一起站在這片土地上，迎過它的風，看過它的雪，走過它童話般的白樺林，到過一生一定要去一次的最北之地——漠河。

Yet， above all else， stand on this remarkable landwith those you hold dear， embrace the winds， marvelat the snow， and wander through the birch forest.Finally， make a pilgrimage to Mohe， the northernmostdestination that you simply must experience at leastonce in a lifetime.