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探尋千年古剎的歷史謎團(tuán)

2018-07-05 04:51朱婧
文化交流 2018年7期
關(guān)鍵詞:大殿蜘蛛建筑

朱婧

讓文物說話,把歷史智慧告訴人們。浙江傳統(tǒng)文化源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng),保存有極為豐富的歷史文化遺產(chǎn),素有“文物之邦”的美稱。到目前為止,浙江省共有全國(guó)重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位(國(guó)家文物局對(duì)不可移動(dòng)文物所核定的最高保護(hù)級(jí)別)200余處。今天,我們走進(jìn)浙江省寧波市保國(guó)寺,一探這座千年古寺的歷史謎團(tuán)……

學(xué)生敲開古寺大門 千年古剎重現(xiàn)世間

在靈山、馬鞍山之間的山坳中,古木掩映,寧波市保國(guó)寺在此屹立千年。作為浙東名剎,保國(guó)寺具有重要的歷史和科學(xué)藝術(shù)價(jià)值,也是欣賞自然勝景的絕佳之地。

筆者隨工作人員拾級(jí)而上,一路上溪水潺潺,層巒疊嶂。保國(guó)寺古建筑群占地面積13280平方米,建筑面積7000平方米,寺外自然山林達(dá)28公頃。

寺中主要殿宇建于三層臺(tái)地之上,沿中軸線自南向北有天王殿、大殿、藏經(jīng)樓等,兩側(cè)還有鐘樓、鼓樓等。說起保國(guó)寺,在寧波幾乎無人不知無人不曉,溯其歷史,最早可追溯到東漢靈山寺。

“驃騎山高萬丈松,祥符殿閣郁蔥蘢。登臨徒覺心神曠,信是東來第一峰。”根據(jù)《保國(guó)寺志》記載,東漢建武年間,驃騎將軍張意與他的兒子中書郎張齊芳見這里山清水秀,便隱居于此。到了唐代佛教傳入中原,宅院被改建成寺院,因建在靈山上,一開始叫作“靈山寺”,也叫“驃騎將軍廟”。

后經(jīng)會(huì)昌法難,靈山寺被廢。直到唐廣明元年,寧波國(guó)寧寺一位叫作“可恭”的高僧,應(yīng)當(dāng)?shù)厥┲饕?,前往長(zhǎng)安上書朝廷,請(qǐng)求復(fù)寺。當(dāng)時(shí)18歲的唐僖宗不但批準(zhǔn)了復(fù)寺重建的要求,還賜名“保國(guó)寺”。

歷史給予了保國(guó)寺無限生機(jī)。就當(dāng)古寺可能隱匿于山間無人過問之時(shí),三位年輕人的到訪,讓千年古寺得以重現(xiàn)世間。

1954年暑假,中國(guó)建筑研究室的三位學(xué)生——戚德耀和同學(xué)竇學(xué)智、方長(zhǎng)源組成實(shí)習(xí)小組,調(diào)查杭州、紹興、寧波一帶的民居及古建筑。7月30日,他們抵達(dá)慈城。聽說離城5公里的山坳里,有座規(guī)模很大的古剎,其中大殿為唐代所建的“無梁殿”,于是欣喜地趕過去探查。

當(dāng)時(shí)天陰將雨,三人在山中搜尋許久,直到在大雨中推開了大殿殿門,頓時(shí)被眼前的古建筑驚呆了。

1961年3月,保國(guó)寺入選第一批全國(guó)重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位。經(jīng)過多年的保護(hù)與研究工作,如今這里成了保國(guó)寺古建筑博物館,同時(shí)還是國(guó)家4A級(jí)旅游景區(qū)。

建筑史上地位較高 古人智慧熠熠生輝

古往今來,寺廟往往以其宗教性質(zhì)為人所熟知,而保國(guó)寺更是以我們祖先精湛絕倫的建筑工藝而聞名。

其中,尤以“千年大殿”北宋大殿最能代表保國(guó)寺建筑的精華。大殿不僅是寺內(nèi)主建筑,更是江南現(xiàn)存最古老、保存最完整的木構(gòu)建筑。保國(guó)寺是典型的宋代木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑,宋代出版的我國(guó)最早的建筑學(xué)規(guī)范性書籍《營(yíng)造法式》,就借鑒了許多保國(guó)寺的建造經(jīng)驗(yàn)。

大殿內(nèi)雖沒有佛像,但仍保存有須彌座式石座,背面嵌有北宋崇寧元年(1102年)“造石佛座記”一通144字題刻。石座上的佛屏背板淺淺地透著一尊佛像的影子。

殿內(nèi),每一處建筑構(gòu)件都蘊(yùn)含了豐富的歷史信息。在建筑學(xué)上,保國(guó)寺的地位較高。

抬頭細(xì)看大殿的天花板,你會(huì)驚嘆于其結(jié)構(gòu)的復(fù)雜程度。全部結(jié)構(gòu)不用一枚鐵釘,全憑精確的榫卯使斗拱巧妙銜接,將建筑物的構(gòu)件牢固地結(jié)合在一起,承托起整個(gè)殿堂屋頂50余噸的重量。

為了更好地承重,大殿里的柱子,尤其是前內(nèi)柱,都不是筆直的,而是與地面保持一定角度,由四周向中心傾斜。這是出于建筑穩(wěn)固的力學(xué)支撐需要,這樣的柱子能承受更多來自各方的力,且不容易變形、垮塌。

此外,這些柱子的外觀形狀如同南瓜,因而被稱為“瓜棱柱”。據(jù)了解,這種瓜棱柱在宋朝時(shí)期的沿海一帶非常流行。

保國(guó)寺工作人員介紹,這樣的瓜形并不是雕刻出來的,而是由木材拼合包鑲形成的。相比于整柱,這樣的拼合柱有許多優(yōu)點(diǎn)。因大殿承重需要,如果選用整柱,必須得是直徑超大的堅(jiān)固木材才行。但一根大木頭外面包上8根小木頭,或者4根大木頭包鑲四段拼合木,作用便能等同于整柱,真正做到小材大用、經(jīng)濟(jì)省料。同時(shí),拼合柱中留有的縫隙有助于潮氣揮發(fā),在南方潮濕的氣候影響下柱子也不容易腐朽霉?fàn)€。

另外,大殿還被稱為“無梁殿”,純木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)的大殿真的能夠做到“無梁”么?

其實(shí)不然,外表看起來像是沒有大梁支撐的大殿,其實(shí)在前槽天花板上,巧妙地安排了三個(gè)與整體結(jié)構(gòu)有機(jī)銜接的鏤空藻井,用天花板和藻井遮住了大殿的梁架。如此巧妙的設(shè)計(jì),讓人們實(shí)在難以發(fā)現(xiàn)梁架所在,也難怪會(huì)誤傳為“無梁殿”。

巧奪天工的技藝,精美絕倫的建筑構(gòu)造,使得保國(guó)寺成為眾多建筑界學(xué)者學(xué)習(xí)、參觀的圣地。

大殿留存未解之謎 科學(xué)監(jiān)測(cè)或能解惑

在民間,保國(guó)寺還有更為神奇的地方,那就是留存至今的四大未解之謎——“鳥不棲,蟲不入,蜘蛛不結(jié)網(wǎng),梁上無灰塵”。

在這樣結(jié)構(gòu)繁復(fù)的木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑里,歷經(jīng)千年卻很難見到鳥窩、灰塵、蜘蛛網(wǎng)等,著實(shí)令人費(fèi)解。要知道,在潮濕多雨還常有臺(tái)風(fēng)等光顧的江南,木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑能夠保存至今已屬不易。而保國(guó)寺大殿不僅屹立不倒,還能讓蟲鳥都“謝絕光臨”,實(shí)在難得。

筆者在保國(guó)寺北宋大殿內(nèi)細(xì)細(xì)看了一圈,的確沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)鳥類棲息過的痕跡,也沒有看見有什么蜘蛛網(wǎng),灰塵也并不多。

那么,究竟是什么原因讓保國(guó)寺大殿能夠如此特別呢?

寧波市保國(guó)寺古建筑博物館書記、副館長(zhǎng)徐學(xué)敏告訴筆者,早在10年前,保國(guó)寺就已經(jīng)安裝完善的監(jiān)控系統(tǒng),通過在各角落安裝與電腦連接的監(jiān)測(cè)設(shè)備,對(duì)保國(guó)寺大殿內(nèi)各角落的溫度、濕度、結(jié)構(gòu)的變形與傾斜、沉降等進(jìn)行24小時(shí)的監(jiān)測(cè)。

也正是這些監(jiān)測(cè)手段,讓專家們從大殿環(huán)境、結(jié)構(gòu)和材料等多方面對(duì)保國(guó)寺大殿四大未解之謎找尋答案。

首先,我們來說說“梁上無灰塵”。

上文已經(jīng)說到,大殿頂部的建筑構(gòu)成非常巧妙,有許多鏤空的設(shè)計(jì),透氣性極佳。而靈山一帶極高的森林覆蓋率更大大降低了灰塵量。因此,有人猜測(cè),這兩大因素或許就是大殿極難積塵的原因。

那么,“鳥不棲,蟲不入,蜘蛛不結(jié)網(wǎng)”又是怎么回事呢?

關(guān)于這些謎團(tuán),不少專家前來考察后都感到迷惑不解。1975年,人們?cè)诰S修保國(guó)寺大殿時(shí),意外地從換下來的梁柱中發(fā)現(xiàn)梁柱的木材有一股刺激性的香味。經(jīng)化驗(yàn)證明,該木材叫“黃檜”,它含有一種飛禽、昆蟲不愿聞的芳香油。據(jù)說,人們?cè)岩恢恢┲敕旁诖蟮畹牧荷?,不久,蜘蛛就昏迷過去了。后來,又有很多人刻意將蜘蛛放進(jìn)殿堂,可沒多久,這些蜘蛛照樣跑得無影無蹤了,殿堂里也始終沒見過有蜘蛛網(wǎng)。

但是,也有人存在質(zhì)疑:歷經(jīng)千年,黃檜木的芳香氣味早該消失殆盡才對(duì)。

對(duì)此,有人猜測(cè),大殿建筑結(jié)構(gòu)或許也有功勞。除了門窗,大殿頂部有許多通風(fēng)口和采光口,還有如魚鱗般層層相貼的斗拱結(jié)構(gòu),也形成形態(tài)不同的通風(fēng)道。這樣的構(gòu)造,使得大殿中能夠形成一種對(duì)流,從而產(chǎn)生一種超聲波,使得蟲鳥不敢接近。

除此以外,蜘蛛生存對(duì)濕度有特定要求,一般空氣濕度在40%~60%之間是蜘蛛生存所需??諝鉂穸瘸^70%會(huì)對(duì)蜘蛛吐絲造成困難。保國(guó)寺所處的環(huán)境濕度較高,常年能達(dá)到70%,這就超出了蜘蛛的適應(yīng)范圍。

不過,這些猜測(cè)依舊未成定論。雖然謎底沒有完全解開,但我們從中窺探到的,卻不僅僅是這些廣為流傳的神奇之處。無論是建筑選址選材,還是匠人建造工藝,保國(guó)寺北宋大殿都是古人創(chuàng)造性智慧的產(chǎn)物,能夠保存至今,于時(shí)代于我們而言,都是一種幸運(yùn)。

正如徐學(xué)敏所說,保國(guó)寺是文化遺產(chǎn)中的精粹,是海上絲綢之路申報(bào)世界文化遺產(chǎn)的申遺點(diǎn),也是后人汲取前人智慧的重要載體。

2013年,這座重建于北宋大中祥符六年的古建筑群迎來了它的千歲生日。我們期待,在持續(xù)的保護(hù)與研究中,這座承載著歷史、智慧、文化的古建筑群能夠迎來下一個(gè)千年。

Ancient Temple Offers Architectural Wonder and Mysteries

By Zhu Jing

Baoguo Temple in Ningbo in eastern Zhejiang fully deserves the top state protection, a status quo established in 1961. Snuggled in a wooded mountain in a suburb of Ningbo, the Buddhist sanctuary measures 13,280 square meters with a built-up area of 7,000 square meters. The temple is surrounded by woods.

The temples history can be traced back to the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220AD), according to a history book compiled and kept by the temple. A cavalry general of the Eastern Han dynasty and his son had a home built at the site where the temple stands today nearly 2,000 years ago. As Buddhism thrived in China, the compound was later converted into a Buddhism sanctuary called Linshan Temple, named after the hill where the compound was.

The temple went down in 845 AD when Emperor Wuzong cracked down on Buddhism because monks became a bad force of social disturbance. It was not until 876 AD that a monk from another temple in Ningbo went to the capital and submitted a petition to the new emperor, an 18-year-old who had come to throne three years before, for having the damaged temple rebuilt. The emperor approved and named it Baoguo Temple.

So Baoguo Temple made a comeback and lasted in history. However, the temple stayed local and unknown to the outside world for centuries. In 1954, three students from China Institute of Architectural Studies (1953-1965) put the temple on the map for architects and scholars all over the country. The three students were Qi Deyao, Dou Xuezhi and Fang Changyuan. During the summer vacation, they came to Zhejiang to do a field study of ancient architecture in Hangzhou, Shaoxing and Ningbo. On July 30, they came to Cicheng and learned that there was a huge ancient temple situated in a valley five kilometers out of the city.

They went to the temple in rain. Pushing open the door of a grand hall of the temple, they were overwhelmed by the majesty and elegance of the ancient structure. The historical discovery of the temple was a significant event. The state government put it on the first list of key cultural relics for top state protection in 1961.

The core of the temple is the grand hall constructed in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). It is the most ancient and best preserved wooden structure in Jiangnan (the south of the Yangtze River Delta). The techniques used in building of the hall are included in authored by Li Jie (1035-1110) and officially issued in 1103 by the Northern Song government. The book provided a unified set of architectural standards for builders, architects, and literate craftsmen as well as for the engineering agencies of the central government.

The ceiling and roof structure of the hall is a complex affair. The giant bracket system uses no iron nail. The bracket system works well with the walls to sustain the ceiling and roof structure which weighs more than 50 tons. It is widely believed that the hall is a living encyclopedia on ancient Chinese architecture.

Built in 1013, the hall presents not only a miracle of architectural wisdom but also some mysteries. It is said that the hall is mysteriously free of birds, spiders, insects, and dust.

The ceiling and roof structure is giant and complex. Normally, dust could gather there. But almost no dust can be found there. A reasonable explanation for the cleanness of the wooden structure is that the temple sits in a wooded valley and that the structure offers excellent ventilation. The two factors combine to create an environment that makes it difficult for dust to gather.

In a restoration project carried out in 1975, engineers found by accident that a pungent fragrance oozed from a beam taken down from the ceiling and roof structure. The odor repels birds and insects. It is said that someone put a spider on a beam in the upper structure and it became unconscious pretty soon. It is said that some people later released some spiders in the hall to see if the spiders would stay but the spiders disappeared pretty soon. No one has ever seen any spider web inside the hall. Some say humidity is a key factor that keeps spiders away from the temple. Water vapor in the air around the temple is over 70 % all around the year, which makes it difficult for a spider to make a web. But these are just guesses and legends. No thorough scientific research has ever been conducted to investigate the so-called mysteries. These mysteries add a spell to the 1,005-year-old wood structure.

朱婧

讓文物說話,把歷史智慧告訴人們。浙江傳統(tǒng)文化源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng),保存有極為豐富的歷史文化遺產(chǎn),素有“文物之邦”的美稱。到目前為止,浙江省共有全國(guó)重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位(國(guó)家文物局對(duì)不可移動(dòng)文物所核定的最高保護(hù)級(jí)別)200余處。今天,我們走進(jìn)浙江省寧波市保國(guó)寺,一探這座千年古寺的歷史謎團(tuán)……

學(xué)生敲開古寺大門 千年古剎重現(xiàn)世間

在靈山、馬鞍山之間的山坳中,古木掩映,寧波市保國(guó)寺在此屹立千年。作為浙東名剎,保國(guó)寺具有重要的歷史和科學(xué)藝術(shù)價(jià)值,也是欣賞自然勝景的絕佳之地。

筆者隨工作人員拾級(jí)而上,一路上溪水潺潺,層巒疊嶂。保國(guó)寺古建筑群占地面積13280平方米,建筑面積7000平方米,寺外自然山林達(dá)28公頃。

寺中主要殿宇建于三層臺(tái)地之上,沿中軸線自南向北有天王殿、大殿、藏經(jīng)樓等,兩側(cè)還有鐘樓、鼓樓等。說起保國(guó)寺,在寧波幾乎無人不知無人不曉,溯其歷史,最早可追溯到東漢靈山寺。

“驃騎山高萬丈松,祥符殿閣郁蔥蘢。登臨徒覺心神曠,信是東來第一峰?!备鶕?jù)《保國(guó)寺志》記載,東漢建武年間,驃騎將軍張意與他的兒子中書郎張齊芳見這里山清水秀,便隱居于此。到了唐代佛教傳入中原,宅院被改建成寺院,因建在靈山上,一開始叫作“靈山寺”,也叫“驃騎將軍廟”。

后經(jīng)會(huì)昌法難,靈山寺被廢。直到唐廣明元年,寧波國(guó)寧寺一位叫作“可恭”的高僧,應(yīng)當(dāng)?shù)厥┲饕?,前往長(zhǎng)安上書朝廷,請(qǐng)求復(fù)寺。當(dāng)時(shí)18歲的唐僖宗不但批準(zhǔn)了復(fù)寺重建的要求,還賜名“保國(guó)寺”。

歷史給予了保國(guó)寺無限生機(jī)。就當(dāng)古寺可能隱匿于山間無人過問之時(shí),三位年輕人的到訪,讓千年古寺得以重現(xiàn)世間。

1954年暑假,中國(guó)建筑研究室的三位學(xué)生——戚德耀和同學(xué)竇學(xué)智、方長(zhǎng)源組成實(shí)習(xí)小組,調(diào)查杭州、紹興、寧波一帶的民居及古建筑。7月30日,他們抵達(dá)慈城。聽說離城5公里的山坳里,有座規(guī)模很大的古剎,其中大殿為唐代所建的“無梁殿”,于是欣喜地趕過去探查。

當(dāng)時(shí)天陰將雨,三人在山中搜尋許久,直到在大雨中推開了大殿殿門,頓時(shí)被眼前的古建筑驚呆了。

1961年3月,保國(guó)寺入選第一批全國(guó)重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位。經(jīng)過多年的保護(hù)與研究工作,如今這里成了保國(guó)寺古建筑博物館,同時(shí)還是國(guó)家4A級(jí)旅游景區(qū)。

建筑史上地位較高 古人智慧熠熠生輝

古往今來,寺廟往往以其宗教性質(zhì)為人所熟知,而保國(guó)寺更是以我們祖先精湛絕倫的建筑工藝而聞名。

其中,尤以“千年大殿”北宋大殿最能代表保國(guó)寺建筑的精華。大殿不僅是寺內(nèi)主建筑,更是江南現(xiàn)存最古老、保存最完整的木構(gòu)建筑。保國(guó)寺是典型的宋代木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑,宋代出版的我國(guó)最早的建筑學(xué)規(guī)范性書籍《營(yíng)造法式》,就借鑒了許多保國(guó)寺的建造經(jīng)驗(yàn)。

大殿內(nèi)雖沒有佛像,但仍保存有須彌座式石座,背面嵌有北宋崇寧元年(1102年)“造石佛座記”一通144字題刻。石座上的佛屏背板淺淺地透著一尊佛像的影子。

殿內(nèi),每一處建筑構(gòu)件都蘊(yùn)含了豐富的歷史信息。在建筑學(xué)上,保國(guó)寺的地位較高。

抬頭細(xì)看大殿的天花板,你會(huì)驚嘆于其結(jié)構(gòu)的復(fù)雜程度。全部結(jié)構(gòu)不用一枚鐵釘,全憑精確的榫卯使斗拱巧妙銜接,將建筑物的構(gòu)件牢固地結(jié)合在一起,承托起整個(gè)殿堂屋頂50余噸的重量。

為了更好地承重,大殿里的柱子,尤其是前內(nèi)柱,都不是筆直的,而是與地面保持一定角度,由四周向中心傾斜。這是出于建筑穩(wěn)固的力學(xué)支撐需要,這樣的柱子能承受更多來自各方的力,且不容易變形、垮塌。

此外,這些柱子的外觀形狀如同南瓜,因而被稱為“瓜棱柱”。據(jù)了解,這種瓜棱柱在宋朝時(shí)期的沿海一帶非常流行。

保國(guó)寺工作人員介紹,這樣的瓜形并不是雕刻出來的,而是由木材拼合包鑲形成的。相比于整柱,這樣的拼合柱有許多優(yōu)點(diǎn)。因大殿承重需要,如果選用整柱,必須得是直徑超大的堅(jiān)固木材才行。但一根大木頭外面包上8根小木頭,或者4根大木頭包鑲四段拼合木,作用便能等同于整柱,真正做到小材大用、經(jīng)濟(jì)省料。同時(shí),拼合柱中留有的縫隙有助于潮氣揮發(fā),在南方潮濕的氣候影響下柱子也不容易腐朽霉?fàn)€。

另外,大殿還被稱為“無梁殿”,純木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)的大殿真的能夠做到“無梁”么?

其實(shí)不然,外表看起來像是沒有大梁支撐的大殿,其實(shí)在前槽天花板上,巧妙地安排了三個(gè)與整體結(jié)構(gòu)有機(jī)銜接的鏤空藻井,用天花板和藻井遮住了大殿的梁架。如此巧妙的設(shè)計(jì),讓人們實(shí)在難以發(fā)現(xiàn)梁架所在,也難怪會(huì)誤傳為“無梁殿”。

巧奪天工的技藝,精美絕倫的建筑構(gòu)造,使得保國(guó)寺成為眾多建筑界學(xué)者學(xué)習(xí)、參觀的圣地。

大殿留存未解之謎 科學(xué)監(jiān)測(cè)或能解惑

在民間,保國(guó)寺還有更為神奇的地方,那就是留存至今的四大未解之謎——“鳥不棲,蟲不入,蜘蛛不結(jié)網(wǎng),梁上無灰塵”。

在這樣結(jié)構(gòu)繁復(fù)的木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑里,歷經(jīng)千年卻很難見到鳥窩、灰塵、蜘蛛網(wǎng)等,著實(shí)令人費(fèi)解。要知道,在潮濕多雨還常有臺(tái)風(fēng)等光顧的江南,木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑能夠保存至今已屬不易。而保國(guó)寺大殿不僅屹立不倒,還能讓蟲鳥都“謝絕光臨”,實(shí)在難得。

筆者在保國(guó)寺北宋大殿內(nèi)細(xì)細(xì)看了一圈,的確沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)鳥類棲息過的痕跡,也沒有看見有什么蜘蛛網(wǎng),灰塵也并不多。

那么,究竟是什么原因讓保國(guó)寺大殿能夠如此特別呢?

寧波市保國(guó)寺古建筑博物館書記、副館長(zhǎng)徐學(xué)敏告訴筆者,早在10年前,保國(guó)寺就已經(jīng)安裝完善的監(jiān)控系統(tǒng),通過在各角落安裝與電腦連接的監(jiān)測(cè)設(shè)備,對(duì)保國(guó)寺大殿內(nèi)各角落的溫度、濕度、結(jié)構(gòu)的變形與傾斜、沉降等進(jìn)行24小時(shí)的監(jiān)測(cè)。

也正是這些監(jiān)測(cè)手段,讓專家們從大殿環(huán)境、結(jié)構(gòu)和材料等多方面對(duì)保國(guó)寺大殿四大未解之謎找尋答案。

首先,我們來說說“梁上無灰塵”。

上文已經(jīng)說到,大殿頂部的建筑構(gòu)成非常巧妙,有許多鏤空的設(shè)計(jì),透氣性極佳。而靈山一帶極高的森林覆蓋率更大大降低了灰塵量。因此,有人猜測(cè),這兩大因素或許就是大殿極難積塵的原因。

那么,“鳥不棲,蟲不入,蜘蛛不結(jié)網(wǎng)”又是怎么回事呢?

關(guān)于這些謎團(tuán),不少專家前來考察后都感到迷惑不解。1975年,人們?cè)诰S修保國(guó)寺大殿時(shí),意外地從換下來的梁柱中發(fā)現(xiàn)梁柱的木材有一股刺激性的香味。經(jīng)化驗(yàn)證明,該木材叫“黃檜”,它含有一種飛禽、昆蟲不愿聞的芳香油。據(jù)說,人們?cè)岩恢恢┲敕旁诖蟮畹牧荷希痪?,蜘蛛就昏迷過去了。后來,又有很多人刻意將蜘蛛放進(jìn)殿堂,可沒多久,這些蜘蛛照樣跑得無影無蹤了,殿堂里也始終沒見過有蜘蛛網(wǎng)。

但是,也有人存在質(zhì)疑:歷經(jīng)千年,黃檜木的芳香氣味早該消失殆盡才對(duì)。

對(duì)此,有人猜測(cè),大殿建筑結(jié)構(gòu)或許也有功勞。除了門窗,大殿頂部有許多通風(fēng)口和采光口,還有如魚鱗般層層相貼的斗拱結(jié)構(gòu),也形成形態(tài)不同的通風(fēng)道。這樣的構(gòu)造,使得大殿中能夠形成一種對(duì)流,從而產(chǎn)生一種超聲波,使得蟲鳥不敢接近。

除此以外,蜘蛛生存對(duì)濕度有特定要求,一般空氣濕度在40%~60%之間是蜘蛛生存所需??諝鉂穸瘸^70%會(huì)對(duì)蜘蛛吐絲造成困難。保國(guó)寺所處的環(huán)境濕度較高,常年能達(dá)到70%,這就超出了蜘蛛的適應(yīng)范圍。

不過,這些猜測(cè)依舊未成定論。雖然謎底沒有完全解開,但我們從中窺探到的,卻不僅僅是這些廣為流傳的神奇之處。無論是建筑選址選材,還是匠人建造工藝,保國(guó)寺北宋大殿都是古人創(chuàng)造性智慧的產(chǎn)物,能夠保存至今,于時(shí)代于我們而言,都是一種幸運(yùn)。

正如徐學(xué)敏所說,保國(guó)寺是文化遺產(chǎn)中的精粹,是海上絲綢之路申報(bào)世界文化遺產(chǎn)的申遺點(diǎn),也是后人汲取前人智慧的重要載體。

2013年,這座重建于北宋大中祥符六年的古建筑群迎來了它的千歲生日。我們期待,在持續(xù)的保護(hù)與研究中,這座承載著歷史、智慧、文化的古建筑群能夠迎來下一個(gè)千年。

Ancient Temple Offers Architectural Wonder and Mysteries

By Zhu Jing

Baoguo Temple in Ningbo in eastern Zhejiang fully deserves the top state protection, a status quo established in 1961. Snuggled in a wooded mountain in a suburb of Ningbo, the Buddhist sanctuary measures 13,280 square meters with a built-up area of 7,000 square meters. The temple is surrounded by woods.

The temples history can be traced back to the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220AD), according to a history book compiled and kept by the temple. A cavalry general of the Eastern Han dynasty and his son had a home built at the site where the temple stands today nearly 2,000 years ago. As Buddhism thrived in China, the compound was later converted into a Buddhism sanctuary called Linshan Temple, named after the hill where the compound was.

The temple went down in 845 AD when Emperor Wuzong cracked down on Buddhism because monks became a bad force of social disturbance. It was not until 876 AD that a monk from another temple in Ningbo went to the capital and submitted a petition to the new emperor, an 18-year-old who had come to throne three years before, for having the damaged temple rebuilt. The emperor approved and named it Baoguo Temple.

So Baoguo Temple made a comeback and lasted in history. However, the temple stayed local and unknown to the outside world for centuries. In 1954, three students from China Institute of Architectural Studies (1953-1965) put the temple on the map for architects and scholars all over the country. The three students were Qi Deyao, Dou Xuezhi and Fang Changyuan. During the summer vacation, they came to Zhejiang to do a field study of ancient architecture in Hangzhou, Shaoxing and Ningbo. On July 30, they came to Cicheng and learned that there was a huge ancient temple situated in a valley five kilometers out of the city.

They went to the temple in rain. Pushing open the door of a grand hall of the temple, they were overwhelmed by the majesty and elegance of the ancient structure. The historical discovery of the temple was a significant event. The state government put it on the first list of key cultural relics for top state protection in 1961.

The core of the temple is the grand hall constructed in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). It is the most ancient and best preserved wooden structure in Jiangnan (the south of the Yangtze River Delta). The techniques used in building of the hall are included in authored by Li Jie (1035-1110) and officially issued in 1103 by the Northern Song government. The book provided a unified set of architectural standards for builders, architects, and literate craftsmen as well as for the engineering agencies of the central government.

The ceiling and roof structure of the hall is a complex affair. The giant bracket system uses no iron nail. The bracket system works well with the walls to sustain the ceiling and roof structure which weighs more than 50 tons. It is widely believed that the hall is a living encyclopedia on ancient Chinese architecture.

Built in 1013, the hall presents not only a miracle of architectural wisdom but also some mysteries. It is said that the hall is mysteriously free of birds, spiders, insects, and dust.

The ceiling and roof structure is giant and complex. Normally, dust could gather there. But almost no dust can be found there. A reasonable explanation for the cleanness of the wooden structure is that the temple sits in a wooded valley and that the structure offers excellent ventilation. The two factors combine to create an environment that makes it difficult for dust to gather.

In a restoration project carried out in 1975, engineers found by accident that a pungent fragrance oozed from a beam taken down from the ceiling and roof structure. The odor repels birds and insects. It is said that someone put a spider on a beam in the upper structure and it became unconscious pretty soon. It is said that some people later released some spiders in the hall to see if the spiders would stay but the spiders disappeared pretty soon. No one has ever seen any spider web inside the hall. Some say humidity is a key factor that keeps spiders away from the temple. Water vapor in the air around the temple is over 70 % all around the year, which makes it difficult for a spider to make a web. But these are just guesses and legends. No thorough scientific research has ever been conducted to investigate the so-called mysteries. These mysteries add a spell to the 1,005-year-old wood structure.

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