宋云峰

1. 《惡女訂制服》—— 澳大利亞近年來少有的成功電影

《惡女訂制服》（The Dressmaker，又譯為《裁縫》）是2015年上映的一部關(guān)于女性復仇的澳大利亞喜劇劇情片，由喬瑟琳·穆爾豪斯（Jocelyn Moorhouse）根據(jù)羅莎莉·漢姆（Rosalie Ham）2000年出版的同名小說改編并導演，由凱特·溫絲萊特（Kate Winslet）主演。影片講述女孩摩特爾·“緹麗”·鄧內(nèi)基（Myrtle “Tilly” Dunnage）在被冤枉殺人而被送走多年之后回到澳大利亞家鄉(xiāng)小鎮(zhèn)登加塔（Dungatar）照看體弱多病、精神恍惚的母親的故事。此時的緹麗已是美艷性感的時尚裁縫。她利用自己的性感和巧手徹底改變了保守家鄉(xiāng)的時尚觀念，也搞清了當年使自己蒙冤的案件，并對那些刻意欺侮冤枉她和母親的人實施了無情而有趣的報復。所以該片被導演穆爾豪斯戲稱為“縫紉機版的伊斯特伍德之《殺無赦》”（Clint Eastwoods Unforgiven with a sewing machine）。

《惡女訂制服》上映后在澳大利亞廣受好評，取得了票房、評論和評獎等各方面的成功。這部投資1，190萬美元的影片在全球收獲了2，411萬美元的票房收入，是2015年澳大利亞第二賣座的電影，位列其影史票房排行榜第11名。《惡女訂制服》在第五屆澳大利亞影視藝術(shù)學院評獎時獲得包括最佳影片、最佳導演、最佳制作、最佳原創(chuàng)音樂、最佳攝影在內(nèi)的多達13項提名，并且斬獲包括最佳女演員、最佳女配角、最佳男配角和最佳服裝設(shè)計等四項大獎。該片還獲得“澳大利亞電影觀眾選擇獎”。

2. 成功的雜糅——《惡女訂制服》影評選登

《惡女訂制服》在主題、形式和表演等方面都令人耳目一新。其主題探討了人性惡的一面——虛偽、盲從、偏見、虛榮和惡意如何影響和改變?nèi)说目捶?、情感和行為。影片在形式上融合了黑色電影（原著小說本身就具有哥特式黑暗風格）、美國西部片以及喜劇電影的形式，具有雜糅特點（hybridity）。在攝影和色彩上則融入了澳大利亞的地貌和氣候特征，再加上時尚服裝的絢麗多彩，使影片溫暖而明亮，與黑色的復仇主題形成有趣的對照。另外故事設(shè)定在20世紀50年代初，其中有多首當年的流行音樂插入其中，使影片具有濃郁的時代特征和懷舊感。溫絲萊特與其他演員出色的表演也是影片成功不可或缺的因素。

導演穆爾豪斯認為影片的女主人公與溫絲萊特的氣質(zhì)非常契合：“Kate is perfect for Tilly， shes beautiful， intelligent， and deeply mysterious on screen.”

爛番茄網(wǎng)站對《惡女訂制服》的綜合評價是：“The Dressmaker boasts a strong central performance by Kate Winslet and a captivating（迷人的）array of narrative weirdness（精靈古怪）—all of which may or may not be a comfortable fit with viewers.”

綜藝雜志Variety影評人賈斯汀·張（Justin Chang）這樣評價溫絲萊特的表演：“Winslet， a difficult actress to root agains（t對付）under any circumstances， has us in her palm from the moment she steps into frame（出現(xiàn)在銀幕上）， looking like an avenging dark angel bathed in 50s noir shadows（50年代黑色電影的陰影）.”

《國際銀幕》雜志（Screen International）影評人沙拉·沃德（Sarah Ward）贊揚《惡女訂制服》：“Light comedy， romantic drama， small-town secrets and revenge schemes might not seem an easy or winning mix； however in The Dressmaker， the combination fits.”她還高度評價影片中的服裝設(shè)計為其成功起到了關(guān)鍵作用：“with the intricate（錯綜復雜的）work of costume designers Marion Boyce and Margot Wilson clearly pivotal（關(guān)鍵的）.”

HitFix網(wǎng)站影評人格里高利·埃爾伍德（Gregory Ellwood）則對《惡女訂制服》的雜糅風格提出了批評意見：“Its hard to mix over-the-top（過多的）comedy and serious drama.”英國《衛(wèi)報》影評人本杰明·李（Benjamin Lee）也認為影片風格跳躍雜亂，只給了五星制的兩星：“The film is a tonally uneven（調(diào)子上不一致的）， genreshifting（風格上有變化的）hurricane（颶風）of a thing， wildly careering off the rails（脫離軌道）and smashing into everything in its view.”

3.《惡女訂制服》故事情節(jié)

In 1926 in the Australian outback town of Dungatar， schoolboy Stewart Pettyman dies in unknown circumstances. The only witness to his death， schoolgirl Myrtle Dunnage， is branded（打上……烙?。゛ murderer and exiled（流放）from the town by Stewarts father and town Councillor（地方議員）， Evan Pettyman.

Twenty-five years later in 1951， Myrtle， now an accomplished dressmaker and going by the name Tilly， returns to her hometown to take care of her ill mother Molly. Upon arrival， she is greeted by local police sergeant（警佐）Horatio Farrat， who is secretly a crossdresser（異裝者，偽娘）. Unable to remember the events of 1926， Tilly asks her mother about Stewart Pettymans death， as she believes that day left her cursed. Molly claims to know nothing about the incident.

The entire town is quickly alerted to Tillys return， as well as William Beaumont， son of the wealthy and snobbish Elsbeth Beaumont. Gertrude Pratt， the daughter of the owners of the towns general store， possesses feelings for William， but lacks the confidence to tell him.

The town gathers for the local football final game， and everyone is shocked when Tilly turns up to the match in a bright red couture（時裝）gown that distracts the Dungatar players. During the interval， the handsome Teddy McSwiney confronts Tilly about her distracting dress， and Tilly agrees to change. After changing into a black but equally alluring outfit（套裝）， Tilly gives her business card to Gertrude， offering to make her a dress for the upcoming footballers dance.

The last quarter of the game begins， with the teams having swapped ends of the field（交換場地）. Due to this， the opposing team from the nearby town of Winyerp are distracted by Tillys dress， and Dungatar emerges as the winner. Later， Gertrude arrives at Mollys house to take up Tillys offer. Tilly agrees to make the dress in exchange for the truth about Stewart Pettymans death. Gertrude reveals that Tilly had hidden from Stewart Pettyman who had been bullying her mercilessly， but that she did not witness what had happened.

At the footballers dance， Gertrudes dress is a huge success， and she successfully uses it to capture the attention of William. They later become engaged. Soon， all of the townspeople begin asking Tilly for extravagan（t奢侈的）dresses.

With her charm and tricks， Tilly learns more about what had happened that day and eventually proves her innocence. It turns out that Stewart had subdued（制服）her against a wall， threatening to come at night to murder her mother and assault her if she moved. He charged head-down at（低頭沖向）her， intending to injure her. Instead， she moved aside at the last moment， and Stewart hit his head on the wall and broke his neck. Teddy reveals that Barney， who had been sitting on the town silo（儲糧庫）at the time， saw the whole thing， but due to being developmentally disabled（智障的）， noone thought to ask him and he was afraid people would think he was lying and send him away.

Subsequently， Tilly punishes those who are guilty and evil one by one—Beulah， the teacher who had provided false testimony（證詞）， goes mad and is sent away to an asylum（精神病院）； Percival Almanac， the cruel town chemist（藥劑師，藥商）who mistreated Tilly as a child， drowns himself in a pond； and town Councillor Evan Pettyman， who turns out to be Tillys father， is killed by his wife. Tilly is also saddened by the deaths of Molly and Teddy who fell in love with her but died of an accident.

While the townspeople are away for the Eisteddfod（藝術(shù)表演比賽）in the nearby town of Winyerp， Tilly sets fire to her house and to a bolt of red fabric（一卷紅布）soaked in kerosene（煤油）that is rolled out down the hill towards the town. Tilly states that she is no longer cursed， and leaves the town by train， with her sewing machine her only luggage. The townspeople， having lost the Eisteddfod， return to the town to find that it has burned down.

4. 臺詞精選

Teddy Helps Tilly Recall the Accident and Heal Her Trauma

Tilly： （Teddy drags Tilly to the place of childhood accident） Stop it， Teddy.

Teddy： He cornered you like this， didnt he？ Made sure you couldnt scream， and then he said something to you. What did he say？

Tilly： “Stand... stand... stand really， really still（站著別動）， Dunnybum， or Ill come around to your house tonight and kill your mother， the slut（蕩婦）. And then， when shes dead， Ill get you.”

Teddy： And he let you go（放開你）， but you didnt run. You just closed your eyes and stood there. Why？

Tilly： Um... I was waiting.

Teddy： For what？ What were you waiting for， Myrtle？

Tilly： Um... To die. To die.

Teddy： Stewart used to run at kids like he was a bull（公牛）. You remember？ Hed run at them with his head down， ram（猛撞）straight in their gut（肚子）. Not this time. This time， it was just you and him.

Tilly： Yeah... （Gasping in pain）

Teddy： You were gonna die， but you didnt. Why？

Tilly： I moved.

Teddy： You moved.

Tilly： I mo... I moved！

Teddy： Barney saw the whole thing from on top of the silo. Stewart hit the wall full pelt（全力擊打）and broke his own stupid neck. He didnt tell anyone because... he was afraid theyd say he was lying and send him away again. Instead， they sent you away. Hey. You didnt kill Stewart Pettyman. He killed himself.

Teddy and Tilly Talk About Their Plan After Lovemaking

Teddy： I suppose we shold get married now. Why not？ Its what they hate most. Have a big wedding in Dungatar， rub their noses in it（借此整一下他們）... then move away.

Tilly： Oh... To Where？

Teddy： A better place. Where theres no Elsbeth or Beulah or Councillor Pettyman. No hate or revenge. Better Saturday night dances.

Tilly： What about my mad mother？ Will we take her too？

Teddy： Yeah. Why not？ Well even take my slow（遲鈍的）brother.

Tilly： Oh. Yes， Barney. Yeah， well take Barney.

Teddy： That a yes？ （Kissing Tilly）

Molly Persuades Tilly with Her Plan of Revenge

Tilly： （After refusing the townspeoples request of making them costumes） Id rather die than make one costume for those vile（卑鄙的）idiots！ How could you invite them up here？！ They left you to rot?。ㄋ麄儗δ悴还懿活?，見死不救?。?/p>

Molly： But Im still alive.

Tilly： They sent me away from you！

Molly： But now youre back. Stop it. Stop it. Stop it（embracing Tilly）. Stop it. （Tilly sobs） It nearly killed me when they sent you away. But I ended up hoping youd never come back to this dreadful place. You were better off away from here. You would have been stuck hiding with me on the top of this hill if you hadnt been sent away. But instead， you can create. You can... transform people. Thats very powerful. Use it. Use it against them. I have a plan， Myrtle.