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那條魚，在來鳳古驛的往事里游弋千年

◇ 文|本刊記者 董 茜 圖|受訪者提供

四五斤重的魚，用油兩斤多。將現(xiàn)宰的鮮魚切塊，放熱油中汆八九成熟時出鍋?；ń?、海椒、豆瓣醬、泡椒等佐料入油炒香……端上桌的來鳳魚，麻辣鮮香與嫩白的魚肉配合得天衣無縫。江湖口味十足的來鳳魚，不知從什么時候起，被譽為重慶江湖菜的鼻祖得此地位，不僅與最具江湖氣的口感有關(guān)，還有那段存續(xù)已久、被塵封在歷史典籍中的故事。

A fresh fish, about four or five jin in weight, is cut into chunks, boiled in hot oi weighed over 2 jin, and got out of the pot when it is almost well down. Such seasonings as Chinese red pepper, chilli, thick broad-bean sauce, and pickled chilli are fried…Then we get a tongue-numbing, spicy, fragrant dish of Laifeng Fish, a dish hailed as the ancestor of Chongqing Jianghu cuisine. Its highly position results not only from its flavor, but also a story in history.

唐代“燒魚尾”“Shaowei Feast” in the Tang Dynasty

來鳳魚，剛剛被列入重慶市第五批非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。作為非遺傳承人的龍大江，才被更多“好吃狗”所認識。說起來鳳魚，吃過的人總會將它與那盤用紅辣椒和大紅袍花椒覆蓋、鮮嫩醇厚的白色魚片聯(lián)系起來。而每每與食客聊及來鳳魚，龍大江總會慣性地普及一個概念：來鳳魚不是一道菜，是一個涵蓋了120多道菜品的“來鳳魚菜系”。“偏愛江湖菜的重慶人，都應該知道這個事。”龍大江固執(zhí)地認為，這不僅僅關(guān)乎一道菜，更關(guān)乎那段應該被知曉的來鳳往事。

要尋根來鳳魚江湖菜“鼻祖”的美譽，繞不過璧山區(qū)來鳳鎮(zhèn)。穿梭于來鳳鎮(zhèn)書香怡景的古街巷口，當?shù)厝藭蛔杂X指引游客，去看看那段位于古街中心區(qū)域的老墻。

老墻上嵌著一塊頗有年頭的石碑。石碑中間豎刻著“新開坦（途）”四個字。雖風化，石碑上的字依舊可見：“前來鳳橋系驛站沖道每逢場期人多□□行春苦□開新路中造石橋自西路口至東路口計長一百三十八丈四尺俱系募資在田中新砌大路以便行人?！弊筮吺牵菏痂瞪娇h事。最末一排刻著：嘉慶十七年歲次壬申仲夏揭立。

石碑殘存文字描寫的人來人往景象，正是來鳳古驛昌盛時期的面貌。作為成渝古驛道上最大的一個商驛，來鳳驛與龍泉驛、雙鳳驛并稱古驛三金花。早在唐代來鳳建鎮(zhèn)、設置軍寨時，迎官接駕、換馬休息的繁華已讓來鳳古驛聲名遠播。盛產(chǎn)鮮魚的來鳳鎮(zhèn)，用魚待客、商用，早已成為街頭吃市最上臺面的菜品?！皝眸P魚江湖地位的奠定，就應該從那時的燒尾宴說起?！睘榱松陥蠓沁z項目，龍大江把來鳳魚的前世今生整理了個遍。

燒尾宴，自唐代就是官員升遷、學子高中時舉行的一場盛大宴會。在來鳳鎮(zhèn)，以魚為貴的習俗中，“燒魚尾”也正是宴席上的壓軸菜品。承載慶賀禮儀習俗的“燒魚尾”，經(jīng)歷千年，到民國時期依舊非常時興。

Laifeng Fish was listed among the fifth batch of Chongqing intangible cultural heritage a short while ago, and thus Long Dajiang, a traditional bearer of intangible cultural heritage, was known by more foodies. The mention of the dish always reminds one who has tasted it of tender white fresh flesh covered with chili and Chinese red pepper. Long Dajiang would always explain the concept of Laifeng Fish to food aficionados: it is not a dish but a cuisine consisting of more than 120 dishes. “Jianghu cuisine fans in Chongqing should know the concept,” he insisted, “It is not only about a dish but also a chapter of history of Laifeng Town, which should be made known.”

The popular acclaim of Laifeng Fish originated in Laifeng Town, Bishan District. Locals of this town would guide travelers to see an ancient wall in the central district of ancient alleys.

A time-honored stone tablet is inlayed in the wall. Despite weathering, the characters on it are still discernible, describing the hustle and bustle of Laifeng ancient courier station when it was prosperous.

As the largest courier station along the Chengdu-Chongqing ancient courier station route, Laifeng courier station is among “three golden flowers of ancient courier station”, another two of them being Longquan and Shuangfeng courier stations. In the Tang Dynasty, Laifeng Town was built where fastnesses were set up. During that period, the courier became famous, as it was extremely prosperous, where officials were welcomed and couriers rested. Laifeng Town abounding with fish, people there treated guests to fish, and sold and bought fish, making it the most popular dish in the restaurants. “The great status of Laifeng Dish stemmed from the ‘Shaowei Feast’ back then.” Long Dajiang researched into the history of the dish in order to apply to the government to make it one of the intangible cultural heritage.

Since the Tang Dynasty, “Shaowei feast” has become a grand dinner party to celebrate official’s promotion and students’ good results in the imperial examina-tion. As fish were the most valued by Laifeng people,“Shaowei” became the last but crucial dish in the banquet. The dish, customarily carrying celebration and wishes, was still prevailing in the Republic of China era.

以魚興業(yè)的來鳳驛Fish-Driven Business

2016年7月，來鳳魚被列入重慶市級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。因為這件事，來鳳魚的歷史文化被首次清晰地推向世人。此前，“來鳳魚”這條被來鳳鎮(zhèn)看作寶貝的魚，一直為當?shù)貛砜捎^的經(jīng)濟效益。僅僅2016年一年，就為來鳳街道創(chuàng)造了2400多萬元收入。

來鳳魚的蝴蝶效益，從宋代就已非常明顯。來鳳明代碑載，當時聲名遠揚的以來鳳魚為賣點的酒樓，就有王來魚樓、醉春風樓、浮玉亭樓等。酒樓均在河岸邊，吊腳樓式建筑。每每入夜，燈火輝煌，熱鬧非凡。酒樓、娛樂的興盛，更吸引著南來北往的客人。以魚興盛的餐飲業(yè)沿襲至今，以來鳳魚為招牌菜的璧山餐館就以千計。

多如繁星的來鳳魚餐館酒樓，在食客味蕾間躥紅大江南北。當下，在世界各地的唐人街，同樣也能看到來鳳魚的身影。喜歡吃魚的人們，為求正宗甚至不惜專程到來鳳追根溯源。然而，往往因為口感上的各種差異，無法辨來鳳魚真身。

5月的一天，因為申報非遺的事，龍大江在辦公室和朋友閑聊。連續(xù)忙于瑣事半月的龍大江，被朋友的一個疑問徹底挑怒?！澳闶欠沁z傳承人，那你給我說說，啷個做一盤來鳳魚才最正宗。”“來鳳魚120多道菜，你說哪個最正宗？”看得出來，龍大江是強壓著怒氣，追加了一句“你娃就是不懂歷史”。

雖是個插曲，但朋友對于正宗來鳳魚的追問，其實也是“好吃狗”的普遍誤區(qū)。對很多重慶人來說，來鳳魚就是一道菜，就是那盤堆積著紅海椒和花椒的麻辣魚。

Laifeng Fish was listed among Chongqing intangible cultural heritage in June, 2016. Accordingly, the history and culture attached to it were made known to people for the first time. At one time, the dish, valued by Laifeng people, always brought considerable benefits to the town, creating over 24 millon yuan income in the year of 2016 alone.

The remarkable Butterfly Effect caused by Laifeng Fish originated from Song Dynasty. According to a stone tablet in the Ming Dynasty, there were many restaurants run on Laifeng Fish, including Wanglai Fish, Zuichunfeng and Fuyuting. Those stilted wooden houses were built along the riverbank, which turned into a bustling place aflame with light in the dark. The flourishing restaurants and entertainment venues attracted customers from across the nation. Now the catering industry carrying on as before, thousands of restaurants in Bishan District take Laifeng Fish as their specialty.

The numerous restaurants selling Laifeng Fish shot to fame across the country among diners. Currently, Laifeng Fish can be found in each China Town. Fish goers even travel all the way to Laifeng Town to find the original fish taste. However, the various flavors make it hard to pursue it.

One day in May, in the office, Long Dajiang was chatting with his friend about the application of intangible cultural heritage on Laifeng Fish. "Since you're the bearer, tell me, among the various Laifeng Fish dishes which is the most authentic one.” Long Dajiang was enraged by his words, “Over 120 Laifeng dishes, you tell me which one is.” Obviously, Long locked up his anger and added, “You just don’t know the history attached to it.”

The question about Laifeng Fish, which Long’s friend asked, reflects the misunderstanding of manyfoodies. For Chongqing people, Laifeng Fish is just a course, the Spicy Fish piled up with chili and Chinese red pepper.

120多道菜都叫“來鳳魚”120“Laifeng Fish” Courses

“大家認識的來鳳魚，應該叫麻辣魚，或是豆瓣魚這兩種?！饼埓蠼庥行┘痹?，他耐著性子，把一堆剛剪好的干海椒和一碗紅艷艷的豆瓣醬推到我們面前。兩道菜選用的佐料不一樣，燒制的手法不一樣，呈現(xiàn)出來的樣子和最后的口感都有很大的區(qū)別。龍大江認為，這就是人們吃到各種不同的來鳳魚、反而越來越迷糊的原因。

產(chǎn)生這些困惑的原因，他認為還是與來鳳魚的歷史有關(guān)?！安檎蚁嚓P(guān)的歷史記載，我們現(xiàn)在吃的麻辣口感來鳳魚，應該是沿襲了宋代比較流行的一種烹魚手法?！痹邶埓蠼喌墓偶涊d中，最接近現(xiàn)代來鳳麻辣魚的“辛辣魚”，就出自狀元馮時行之手。在當時，作為狀元的馮時行非常喜愛吃魚，也會親自烹飪“辛辣魚”接待貴客。但要追溯現(xiàn)代來鳳魚技藝的起源店，就要數(shù)康熙時來鳳最著名的魚店鄧家魚館。

道光璧城舉人鄧洪享的《雙三娘魚藝》中記載：乾隆初，吾族女高祖三娘始改為食肴，以不費物之故。三娘喜制麻辣魚，烹群鯽過江、龍舟魚、善以雙烏（魚）炸制雙龍戲珠，單烏炸烏龍吐珠，形色皆備報精工，肉皆酥香、脆美，渝（州）璧（山）賓客嘆贊云，妙絕冠世?！皝眸P魚多種烹飪手法沿襲下來成就的不同魚菜，緣于鄧家魚館多年經(jīng)營的不斷創(chuàng)新?！饼埓蠼趤眸P魚的申遺材料中，特意將120多道菜品集合申報。在他看來，來鳳魚的幾十種烹飪技藝，120多道來鳳魚菜品，正是對來鳳魚歷史的一種追溯和認證?！俺猿雒牢叮菍眸P魚的評價。吃出歷史，才是對來鳳魚的認可。”

"The well-known Laifeng Fish is also called Spicy Fish or Fish stewed by thick broad-bean sauce." Long Dajiang explained. He cut a pile of dry chili and Chinese red pepper and spread it in front of us. The two courses differed in seasonings and cooking methods, and their colors and flavors are notably different. That was the reason why people get confused when tasting various flavored Laifeng Fish, Long Dajiang believed.

However, Long Dajiang thought the reason for their confusion derived from the history of Laifeng Fish.“According to historical records, the spicy Laifeng Fish originated from the Song Dynasty.” “Pungent Fish,”similar to present spicy Laifeng Fish, was created by Feng Shihang, a Number One Scholar, who was very fond of eating fish and also cooked “Pungent Fish” to treat distinguished guests. The origin of modern cooking skills of Laifeng Fish dated back to Deng’s Fish, the most famous restaurant in the Kangxi reign during the Qing Dynasty.

In the Daoguang reign, Deng Hongxiang, a firstdegree scholar in Bicheng, recorded in his book, Shuang Sanniang’s Fish-Cooking Skill: early in the reign of Qianlong, Sanniang revised recipes for the reason of saving seasonings. She was fond of cooking spicy fish, schools of carp, Dragon Boat Fish, double mullets and single mullet. Those courses she made were in perfect color and delicacy, which tasted crispy and delicious. Diners in Yuzhou and Bishan Districts were full of praise and complimented it one and only. “Deng’s Fish continuously made innovation in cooking Laifeng Fish, which brought about various fish courses.” Long Dajiang declared in the material, where over 120 courses were included, which was prepared for intangible cultural heritage application. In Long’s opinion, dozens of fish-cooking skills and over 120 courses identified the history of Laifeng Fish, and they have proved to be a memory of the history. “The delicacy of Laifeng Fish wins diners’ approval while the history of it wins their respect.”

The Fish Wandering in the Long History of Laifeng Ancient Courier Station

Article | Dong Qian Pictures | Interviewee