粵菜新“潮”

廣東地處亞熱帶，四季常青，物產(chǎn)富饒，這使得廣東的飲食得天獨(dú)厚。做法精致、食材新鮮、口味清淡都是廣東菜的特點(diǎn)。其中潮州菜更備受美食家推崇 ，在中國(guó)美食界地位卓然。

在不同食客的心里，潮州菜的面貌可能截然不同，有可能是一頓熱氣騰騰的牛肉火鍋，有可能是一盤(pán)香味四溢的鹵鵝頭，有可能是一場(chǎng)酣暢淋漓的“打冷”宵夜……《舌尖上的中國(guó)》美食顧問(wèn)、汕頭市美食學(xué)會(huì)主席張新民在應(yīng)邀參加“重新發(fā)現(xiàn)中國(guó)味·巡旅”系列活動(dòng)時(shí)接受筆者采訪時(shí)指出：“潮州菜在食客心目中出現(xiàn)這些不同的面貌和觀感，只是整個(gè)菜系中不同流派的分支的區(qū)別，同時(shí)也是中國(guó)社會(huì)經(jīng)濟(jì)文化演進(jìn)過(guò)程中人們?cè)陲嬍承枨笊细淖兊慕Y(jié)果。”在上世紀(jì)80年代，經(jīng)濟(jì)實(shí)惠的潮州“打冷”從港澳地區(qū)回流進(jìn)入廣州等城市飲食市場(chǎng)，而到了上世紀(jì)末本世紀(jì)初，中國(guó)經(jīng)濟(jì)高速發(fā)展，人們物質(zhì)生活需求提高，潮州菜則開(kāi)始表現(xiàn)出豪華精細(xì)的一面……但說(shuō)到底，潮州筵席才是潮州菜的精華。

潮俗常用“食十二菜桌”來(lái)形容潮州筵席的豐盛程度，且十二菜中以硬菜為主，鵝肝、花膠、鮑魚(yú)、龍蝦等高端食材盡攬，做法有生腌、白灼、魚(yú)飯、鹵制等，看似極簡(jiǎn)，卻又心思滿滿，即便所用到的調(diào)味料、配菜、火候等都必有說(shuō)法。比如一道白灼香螺，最后上盤(pán)時(shí)一定要浸潤(rùn)在用心熬制的雞湯中，此舉是為了讓響螺的清鮮甘甜愈發(fā)明顯。而野生紫菜螺頭湯里的紫菜，必須要烘烤過(guò)的，皆因經(jīng)過(guò)烘烤方能讓紫菜的細(xì)胞壁自然破裂，迷人的香氣一躥而出。打冷中的魚(yú)飯，新鮮魚(yú)肉是冰鎮(zhèn)后直接上桌的，多吃幾口難免會(huì)發(fā)膩，此時(shí)沾上些許普寧豆醬，發(fā)酵過(guò)的醬料會(huì)優(yōu)雅地襯托魚(yú)肉的清甜彈牙，給予魚(yú)飯更絕美的味蕾誘惑。

潮州筵席中，通常還會(huì)有酒加持。早在上世紀(jì)80年代，使用洋酒佐餐的風(fēng)潮便開(kāi)始在潮汕餐桌上盛行，成為給潮州菜增色的神來(lái)之筆。這股風(fēng)潮在世界名酒廣泛進(jìn)入中國(guó)飲食消費(fèi)市場(chǎng)的近十年中愈演愈烈，很多老饕在撰寫(xiě)自己的美食心得時(shí)，都會(huì)針對(duì)各式潮汕名菜給出不同的洋酒配搭。這種組合隨著美食家味蕾的進(jìn)化，從最早期的紅白葡萄酒，換成了名品干邑，搭配愈加豐富，品類(lèi)細(xì)分更精確，向高品質(zhì)國(guó)際化方向演進(jìn)。也正是這一趨勢(shì)吸引了“重新發(fā)現(xiàn)中國(guó)味·巡旅”來(lái)到汕頭，開(kāi)啟一段帶有實(shí)驗(yàn)性和探索性的美食文化之旅。

Chaozhou beef hotpot潮州牛肉火鍋

Chaozhou beef hotpot is very particular about the quality of the fresh beef. The cow has to be freshly slaughtered and butchered, so restaurants are usually located near the abattoir. Cutting techniques are greatly valued. The beef should be hand-sliced into exactly the right thickness. The thinner slices are silky and smooth, while the thicker slices are chewy and satisfying, “to please your throat,” as they call it.

Iced red crab凍紅蟹

The iced red crab is one of the must-order dishes of Chaozhou cuisine. Red crabs are a local specialty in Shanwei. The red crabs are steamed, and then iced before being tasted. Red vinegar and Puningmade bean sauce can bring out the mellow fl avour and the popping texture.

Spiced goose鹵鵝

In Chaoshan there's a fi ne-breed of goose called “Lion Head”. Spiced goose dates back a long way in Chaoshan. In the past, every household would cook the dish at home: boiled with spices, cooled, sliced into thick pieces, covered with spiced sauce and Chinese parsley, and completed with vinegar-soaked mashed garlic.

Ark shell血蚶

The ark shell was called “shell coins” for the tinkling sound it makes when shells are rubbed against each other. In Chaoshan there's a saying that the more ark shells you eat, the richer you can become. There're two popular ways of cooking ark shells. Scald them in boiling water and eat with sauce, or preserve them with salt and soybean sauce into instant food.

Chaozhou-style cold dish潮式“打冷”

Chaozhou-style cold dish “Da Lang” is a traditional Chaoshan dish made by steaming and cooling all kinds of seafood in natural air. The cooled seafood usually goes with garlic oil or bean sauce, which can bring out the unique freshness of the fi sh. It is said that this kind of cold dish was created by Chaoshan fi shermen by coincidence, but became quite popular and was carried down through generations.

The door to this church in Cartagena is so big that it makes an adult look like a child.卡塔赫納教堂大門(mén)與紅衣女子。