Anne+Zacardelli+孫夢(mèng)光

你是否也跟全世界其他不計(jì)其數(shù)的女孩一樣為美少女戰(zhàn)士的裙子而癡迷？那么漂亮的裙子設(shè)計(jì)靈感從何而來(lái)？穿法有何講究？又蘊(yùn)含著怎樣的文化意義呢？本文將為你一一揭曉。

Every superhero needs two things： super powers and a super awesome costume. The costume defines superheroes in many ways—who they fight for， where they come from—even their name. The massively popular anime2） heroine Sailor Moon is no different. Based on the sailor uniform worn by Japanese schoolgirls， Sailor Moon's iconic costume identifies her as a Japanese girl. But how did Japanese girls come to wear this uniform？ What does it mean to Japanese girls？ The answers may surprise you！

1 American women wore it first.

While the sailor uniform can trace its history to the British navy， it was American women who inspired the trend in Japan. In 1902， female students at Smith College3） wore sailor collars and bloomers4） which were easy to move in. Educator AkuriInokuchi brought the style back to Japan and her students did the same. However， the sailor uniform didn't really take off until 1922， when Japanese students wanted to emulate5） the style of their American headmistress， Elizabeth Lee. A local garment factory started to mass produce the uniforms.

2 High school girls don't wear sailor uniforms.

When the series starts， Sailor Moon， or Serena/Usagi Tsukino， is a middle school student and wears a sailor uniform that is royal blue with white stripes. However， in the final season， Sailor Stars， Usagi and her friends finally enter high school. Her high school uniform is now dark blue with red stripes. However， in Japan， sailor uniforms are reserved for middle school students. High school students wear a sweater vest or blazer6） with their skirts.

3 Watch out for school girls with cropped tops and long skirts！

At school， Sailor Moon and her friends wear sailor uniforms consisting of knee length skirts and shirts covering their belly button. In other words， they're normal girls. But in the 1970s in Japan， female gang members would wear cropped tops and long skirts down to their ankles. You can see this reflected in uniforms of anime characters such as former gang member Arisa Uotani in Fruits Basket.

Don't worry if you're wearing a long skirt in Japan nowadays though. The stereotype may be a fun homage to the 1970s in modern anime but no one's going to accuse you of being in a gang now if they see you walking down the street with a long skirt on.

每個(gè)超級(jí)英雄都需要兩樣?xùn)|西：超能力和一套超炫的服裝。這套服裝也從很多方面（他們?yōu)檎l(shuí)而戰(zhàn)，他們來(lái)自哪里）為超級(jí)英雄做著注解，甚至也注解了他們的名字。廣受歡迎的日本動(dòng)漫女超人美少女戰(zhàn)士水手月亮也是如此。水手月亮的標(biāo)志性服裝是以日本女學(xué)生穿的水手制服為設(shè)計(jì)基礎(chǔ)的，這就決定了她是一個(gè)日本女孩。但日本女孩們?yōu)槭裁磿?huì)穿這身制服呢？這對(duì)她們來(lái)說(shuō)意味著什么？答案或許會(huì)讓你吃驚！

1 美國(guó)女性率先穿起這種制服。

雖然水手制服的歷史可追溯到英國(guó)的海軍，但水手制服在日本的流行卻是美國(guó)女性激發(fā)的。1902年，史密斯學(xué)院的女學(xué)生們穿起了水手衣領(lǐng)和便于活動(dòng)的燈籠短褲。教育工作者亞久莉井栗把這種風(fēng)格帶回了日本，她的學(xué)生們也照著穿起來(lái)。然而，水手制服直到1922年才真正流行起來(lái)，當(dāng)時(shí)日本學(xué)生想要效仿她們的美國(guó)女校長(zhǎng)伊麗莎白·李的穿衣風(fēng)格。當(dāng)?shù)氐囊粋€(gè)服裝廠便開始批量生產(chǎn)這種制服。

2 高中女生并不穿水手制服。

這一系列動(dòng)畫剛開始時(shí)，水手月亮（或者叫塞麗娜/月野兔）是個(gè)初中生，穿著帶有白色條紋的品藍(lán)色水手制服。但在最后一季《美少女戰(zhàn)士最后的星光》中，月野兔和她的朋友們終于上了高中，這時(shí)她的高中校服是深藍(lán)底紅條紋的。但在日本，水手制服是僅限初中生穿的。高中生要穿毛衣背心或運(yùn)動(dòng)上衣，下面配裙子。

3 小心穿露臍上衣配長(zhǎng)裙的女生！

在學(xué)校里，水手月亮和她的朋友們穿的水手制服包括長(zhǎng)度及膝的裙子和蓋住肚臍的上衣。換句話說(shuō)，她們是普通女生。但在20世紀(jì)70年代的日本，女幫會(huì)成員會(huì)穿露臍上衣和長(zhǎng)到腳踝的裙子。你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)這一點(diǎn)在日本動(dòng)漫角色的制服上有所體現(xiàn)，比如《水果籃子》里前幫會(huì)成員魚股卯緒。

不過現(xiàn)在你如果在日本穿長(zhǎng)裙也不必?fù)?dān)心。在現(xiàn)代動(dòng)漫中，這種老套著裝可能是對(duì)70年代的一種有趣的致敬，但如果人們看到你穿著一條長(zhǎng)裙走在街上，不再會(huì)有人指責(zé)你是幫會(huì)成員。

4 There's a whole museum dedicated to uniforms in Japan.

The Tombow Uniform Museum is located in Okayama， right across from the Tombow school uniform factory. In fact， the majority of school uniforms manufactured in Japan come from Okayama. The museum also includes a photo of the first Japanese school girl sailor uniform from 1920.

5 Sailor Moon doesn't have just one costume.

She powers up to get two more！ You'll see Sailor Moon wear her iconic red and blue costume for the first three seasons of the anime. In the third season， Sailor Moon powers up to Super Sailor Moon by using the Holy Grail7）. Her costume keeps the original color scheme， but adds embellishments to her shoulders， waist and skirt. In the final season， her costume undergoes an even more drastic change. Usagi powers up to Eternal Sailor Moon， her most powerful form and most elaborate costume. Eternal Sailor Moon has three layers of skirts， white boots， pink puffy8） sleeves and to top it all off9）—wings！

6 The sailor uniform signifies freedom and possibilities.

While a sailor uniform may mean a charming and attractive heroine to many anime fans， the uniform means much more to Japanese girls and women. The sailor uniform reminds them of their time in school， a time without the pressures of work， marriage and children. So it's no wonder that Sailor Moon is a champion of the hopes and dreams of young girls！

4 日本有一整座專門的制服博物館。

蜻蜓制服博物館位于日本岡山，正對(duì)著蜻蜓校服制造廠。實(shí)際上，日本產(chǎn)的大部分校服都來(lái)自岡山。博物館里還收藏著1920年日本女學(xué)生的第一套水手制服照片。

5 水手月亮的制服可不止一套。

水手月亮升級(jí)會(huì)多兩套制服！在動(dòng)漫的前三季中，你會(huì)看到她穿著標(biāo)志性的紅藍(lán)制服。在第三季中，她使用圣杯變身為超級(jí)水手月亮。這時(shí)制服的配色設(shè)計(jì)沒有變，但肩部、腰部和裙子上都加了裝飾品。最后一季中，她的制服經(jīng)歷了更大的變化。月野兔變身為永恒水手月亮，這是她最強(qiáng)大的形態(tài)，這時(shí)的制服也最精致。永恒水手月亮有三層裙子、白色戰(zhàn)靴、粉色的泡泡袖，最棒的是，還有翅膀！

6 水手制服意味著自由和可能性。

對(duì)于許多動(dòng)漫愛好者來(lái)說(shuō)，水手制服或許意味著迷人又好看的女主角，但對(duì)日本女孩和女性它卻意味著更多。水手制服讓她們想起了自己的校園時(shí)光，那段沒有工作壓力、婚姻和孩子的時(shí)光。因此，也難怪水手月亮是年輕女孩們希望和夢(mèng)想的捍衛(wèi)者！

日本：國(guó)民文化的一部分

日本校服質(zhì)量和做工都是一流的，并以時(shí)尚著稱，校服不僅是學(xué)校的標(biāo)志，而且是時(shí)髦的象征，日本校服已經(jīng)成為其國(guó)民文化的重要組成部分。日本女生校服基本以水手服、短裙和長(zhǎng)襪為主，男生則是中山裝或西裝制服。部分學(xué)校甚至還會(huì)統(tǒng)一外套、背包和鞋的款式。

韓國(guó)：明星代言校服

韓國(guó)男生校服大多是白襯衫和西裝褲，女生通常是白襯衫加花格子百褶裙和蝴蝶結(jié)。韓國(guó)校服注重質(zhì)量和品牌，很多校服制造商都不惜花重金邀請(qǐng)當(dāng)紅青春偶像作代言人。

英國(guó)：校服經(jīng)典款的起源

經(jīng)典校服起源于英國(guó)，以教會(huì)學(xué)校和貴族學(xué)校為代表，當(dāng)時(shí)已經(jīng)具有制服、禮服、運(yùn)動(dòng)服、學(xué)位服等分類。英國(guó)校服款式經(jīng)典、簡(jiǎn)潔，男生為正統(tǒng)西裝、正規(guī)皮鞋，需要佩戴領(lǐng)帶；女生也是統(tǒng)一的西式正統(tǒng)服裝、正規(guī)女式皮鞋，并且必須佩戴領(lǐng)花。

美國(guó)：學(xué)校自行決定

除教會(huì)學(xué)校和部分私立學(xué)校外，美國(guó)的公立學(xué)校都不要求學(xué)生穿校服。不過學(xué)校還是會(huì)在學(xué)生畢業(yè)時(shí)準(zhǔn)備統(tǒng)一的服裝，讓學(xué)生以統(tǒng)一的形象參加畢業(yè)典禮、拍集體照。1996年，美國(guó)前總統(tǒng)克林頓提出統(tǒng)一中小學(xué)生校服，但因遭到反對(duì)而未實(shí)施，美國(guó)各州教育行政部門建議學(xué)校自行決定是否統(tǒng)一校服。