Do you know Hanfu? Hanfu is traditional1 clothes in old China.
你知道漢服么?漢服是古代中國的傳統(tǒng)服裝。
“Hanfu is beautiful, but its not convenient2 for daily life. For example, how can we do some sports while we are in Hanfu?” said my classmate Zhou.
“漢服很美,但是在日常生活中(穿起來)很不方便。比如, 我們穿著漢服怎么參加體育活動(dòng)呢?”我的同學(xué)小周說。
“I think Hanfu is elegant3. We should keep this kind of clothes. In Japan, people wear their traditional clothes when festivals are coming. We can learn from Japan. We can keep Hanfu as our traditional clothes. When Spring Festival is coming we can wear Hanfu,” said Liu, a pretty girl with a pair of pink glasses.
“我覺得漢服很高雅。我們應(yīng)該保留(漢服)這種服裝。在日本, 人們?cè)诠?jié)日到來之際穿著他們的傳統(tǒng)服裝。我們可以向日本學(xué)習(xí), 把漢服作為我們的傳統(tǒng)服裝。春節(jié)的時(shí)候,我們可以穿漢服?!贝髦凵坨R的漂亮女孩小劉說。
Do you want to wear Hanfu? I think Hanfu is a part of Chinese culture. I suggest that we should keep this kind of old clothes for inheritance4. We dont need to wear it every day. We can wear it on special days or in our traditional festivals.
你想穿漢服嗎?我覺得漢服是中國文化的一部分。我建議我們應(yīng)該保留這種古老的服裝,傳承中國文化。我們不用每天都穿漢服,可以在特殊的日子或者傳統(tǒng)節(jié)日里穿。
Hanfu refers to the pre-17th century traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, the main part of Chinese people. It has a history as long as the history of the Han Chinese people, but it is largely unknown in China today.
漢服是指17世紀(jì)之前的中國主體民族——漢族的傳統(tǒng)服裝。漢服和漢民族的歷史一樣悠久,但是在現(xiàn)代中國,知道漢服的人不多。
根據(jù)中國歷史記載,漢服可以追溯到一位圣君——黃帝(Yellow Emperor)的統(tǒng)治時(shí)期,即大約五千年前。中國當(dāng)時(shí)已經(jīng)出現(xiàn)了原始的農(nóng)業(yè)和紡織業(yè),開始用織成的麻布來做衣服。黃帝的妻子嫘祖發(fā)明了飼蠶和絲紡后,人們的衣冠服飾日臻完善。漢服本身有記載的歷史就有3000多年。
殷商以后,冠服制度初步建立;春秋戰(zhàn)國時(shí)期,衣服的款式(style)空前豐富;秦統(tǒng)一中國以后,建立了各項(xiàng)制度,其中也包括衣冠制度。自此而下,一直到明朝末年,漢服一直在歷史的長河中不斷發(fā)展,成為了中華文明極其重要的組成部分。得體地穿著漢服也是一種重要的禮儀教養(yǎng)??鬃樱–onfucius)認(rèn)為漢服是中華禮儀典范(ceremony and ritual)的重要組成部分。
漢服于清朝初年失傳。清朝是滿族人(Manchus)建立的政權(quán)。滿族人占領(lǐng)中原后,強(qiáng)迫漢族男子剃發(fā)易服,留辮子,穿滿族服裝。清朝兩百多年的歷史中,漢族男子服飾基本以滿服為模式,旗袍、長衫、馬褂都是以滿族為主體的民族服飾的改良和發(fā)展,而非漢族傳統(tǒng)的民族服飾。
漢族長期的抵制斗爭使清政府也考慮做些讓步,以穩(wěn)定局勢,于是提出所謂“十從十不從”,即服裝上男從女不從,生從死不從,陽從陰不從,官從隸不從,老從少不從,儒從而僧道不從,娼從而優(yōu)伶不從,仕宦從婚姻不從,國號(hào)從官號(hào)不從,役稅從語言文字不從。這點(diǎn)有限的讓步,終于保留了一些漢服中的特點(diǎn),但總體而言漢服仍在清朝統(tǒng)治者武力鎮(zhèn)壓下逐漸消亡了。
近年來,中國興起了一個(gè)為了復(fù)興(revive)漢族傳統(tǒng)服裝而進(jìn)行的漢服運(yùn)動(dòng)(Han costume movement)。
Styles of Hanfu
漢服的樣式
One of the main features of Hanfu is its Jiaoling Youren(cross collar and right lapel), and tying with sash5 in place of buttons. And flat pattern cutting makes the clothes wide and loose and the wearers both look and feel comfortable.
漢服的一個(gè)主要特點(diǎn)是交領(lǐng)右衽,不用扣子而是系腰帶,平面的剪裁使得衣服很寬松,穿上后看起來和感覺起來都很舒適。
漢服主要有三種樣式:上衣下裙,連身裙,或者上衣下褲?;绢愋褪且?,即上衣;裳,裙子。以深衣為例,深衣是那種將衣和裳連起來包住全身的長款連身裙,這種穿法就是其名為“深衣”的原因。
Parts of Shenyi
深衣的組成
Ling(Jin):the collar of Yi
領(lǐng)(衿):衣領(lǐng)
Jin: the front of Yi
襟:上衣前端
Ren:the lapel of Yi
Jiaoling Youren:crossed collars, tying to the right
衽:衣的翻領(lǐng)
交領(lǐng)右衽是漢服的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)樣式。(男子與女子都須將漢服左襟壓在右襟上,反過來穿的是其他民族的穿法,或者是古代舉行葬禮時(shí)給逝者更衣的穿法)
Qu: sleeve cuffs
祛:袖口
Mei: sleeves
袂:衣袖
Yaodai: waist sash
腰帶:腰部系帶
Chang: skirt
裳:裙子
Ju: the hem of Shang
裾:裙子的下擺邊緣
The Influences Of Hanfu
漢服的影響
Because of the length of its history and Chinas cultural influence on the region, Hanfu has shaped the styles of traditional costumes of some Asian countries. Korean Hanbok and Japanese Kimono have the special style and some differences from Hanfu. But they had been influenced by Hanfu. These clothings have common features: Youren and wide sleeves.
由于中國悠久的歷史及其在亞洲形成的強(qiáng)勢的文化影響力,漢服對(duì)幾個(gè)亞洲國家的民族服裝樣式的形成有著深遠(yuǎn)的影響。韓國的韓服和日本的和服樣式獨(dú)特,與漢服有不同之處,但是它們都受漢服的影響至深,三者之間也有共同之處:右衽和廣袖。
The Han Chinese clothing mostly shows our own culture. In China, the Han Chinese clothing lovers are using their own action“Han costume movement” to show their pursuit6 of the Han Chinese clothing culture.
漢服很大程度上體現(xiàn)了我們本民族的文化。國內(nèi)漢服運(yùn)動(dòng)愛好者們正在用自己的實(shí)際行動(dòng)—— “漢服運(yùn)動(dòng)” 來表達(dá)自己對(duì)漢服文化的熱愛。