Marc Spears

How the NBAs fashion game has evolved in the 10 years since the 2005 dress code.

自2005年執(zhí)行著裝令后，NBA時尚在十年間完成了怎樣的演化……

Ten years ago on Oct. 17， 2005， NBA players received a surprising memo from then-commissioner David Stern. A league-wide dress code was going into effect. No more baggy jeans. No fitted baseball caps. No XXXL white T-shirts. No Timberland boots. Oversized necklaces – even ones with religious pendants – were also out.

十年前的2005年10月17日，NBA球員從當(dāng)時的總裁大衛(wèi)·斯特恩那里收到了一份意料之外的備忘錄。著裝令就此在全聯(lián)盟范圍內(nèi)生效。不許再穿肥大的牛仔褲，不許戴定制的棒球帽，不許穿超大號的白色T恤，不許穿Timberland的靴子。超大號的項鏈——甚至掛著宗教吊墜的項鏈都是被禁止的。

Players were not happy. Some jokingly called it the "A.I. rule" after Philadelphia 76ers guard Allen Iverson. Some thought it was racist toward black players or a slap at the hip-hop community.

球員們不高興。有人開玩笑地將其稱為“AI規(guī)則”，得名于76人后衛(wèi)阿倫·艾弗森。有人認為這是針對黑人球員的種族歧視，是對嘻哈文化的打擊。

"I remember a lot of guys being upset with it，" said San Antonio Spurs forward David West， who was then playing for the New Orleans Hornets. "A lot of guys thought they were being too intrusive. … I just remember felling like，Damn， Im a grown man and someone is telling me what to wear. "

“我記得有很多人對此感到不爽?！笔グ矕|尼奧馬刺前鋒大衛(wèi)·韋斯特表示，當(dāng)時他是新奧爾良黃蜂的一員，“很多人認為規(guī)定冒犯了自己……我記得自己當(dāng)時心里想的就是，‘媽的，我是成年人，還得讓別人告訴我穿什么?！?/p>

The NBAs mandatory dress code was for all NBA and NBDL players， who were expected to wear business-casual attire while participating in team and NBA activities that included arriving at games， departing games， conducting interviews and making promotional and other appearances. Specific penalties werent announced， but repeat violators were subject to fines.

NBA的強制著裝令適用于所有NBA和NBDL球員，在參加球隊和NBA活動時，包括抵達或離開賽場、參加采訪、參加宣傳或其他活動，他們必須穿上商務(wù)正裝。聯(lián)盟沒有公布具體的懲罰措施，但多次違反規(guī)定將會被罰款。

"It was like us versus the league，" former Detroit Pistons guard Chauncey Billups said， "and there was a little tag going on us on who we were and what we represented， the black players， the whole hip-hop culture."

“感覺就是我們在對抗聯(lián)盟?！鼻暗滋芈苫钊笮l(wèi)昌西·比盧普斯表示，“我們是什么人、代表什么都有著標簽，我們是黑人球員，代表整個嘻哈文化。”

Ten years later， the NBAs sense of style has evolved to the point where several stars routinely make their own unique fashion statements.

十年后，NBA里的時尚風(fēng)格已經(jīng)演變成為了幾位明星球員經(jīng)常做出獨特時尚聲明。

"It was kind of weird，" Golden State Warriors coach Steve Kerr said. "A predominantly black league with a white commissioner telling everybody what they had to wear. I wasnt sure how I felt about that. And I was wrong."

“這有些奇怪?！庇率恐鹘叹毷返俜颉た茽栒f，“一個主要由黑人球員組成的聯(lián)盟，要由一個白人總裁告訴他們應(yīng)該穿什么。我不確定自己的感受。我錯了。”

The NBA didnt think it needed a dress code in the 1980s when many players wore business attire clothing while flying on commercial planes with their teams. NBA stars like Julius Erving， Magic Johnson， Michael Jordan， Clyde Drexler， James Worthy and Alex English looked typically sharp when they arrived to games in the 1980s. Drexler believes NBA players began dressing more casually as teams started using charter planes in the early 1990s.

上世紀80年代，當(dāng)球員們穿著商務(wù)正裝，和球隊一起乘坐普通航班時，NBA不覺得有頒布著裝令的必要。像朱利葉斯·歐文、“魔術(shù)師”約翰遜、邁克爾·喬丹、克萊德·德雷克斯勒、詹姆斯·沃西和阿萊克斯·英格利什在1980年代抵達球館時，他們的穿著都很職業(yè)。德雷克斯勒認為，隨著球隊在1990年代初開始使用包機，NBA球員才開始穿著越來越休閑。

"We were pretty serious about how we dressed，" Drexler said. "I always had a personal tailor. Most teams had dress codes when traveling until most started chartering around 1990， 1991. Detroit was the first team to charter. Portland was the second.

“我們很認真地對待自己的穿著?！钡吕卓怂估照f，“我有私人裁縫。絕大多數(shù)球隊都有著裝令，直到1990年，或1991年，球隊開始有包機后。活塞是第一個有包機的，開拓者是第二個。”

"Once both Portland and Detroit played in the 1990 NBA Finals， most teams thought it created an advantage to charter. Then everyone started to charter."

“開拓者和活塞雙雙進入1990年總決賽后，大多數(shù)球隊認為包機能夠帶來優(yōu)勢。所以，所有球隊都開始包機了?！?/p>

Los Angeles Lakers coach Byron Scott， who won three championships as a guard with the Lakers in the 1980s， said players during his day simply wanted to look good.

洛杉磯湖人主教練拜倫·斯科特1980年代作為后衛(wèi)跟隨湖人拿到過三個總冠軍，他說他那個年代的球隊，想的只是讓自己看上去精神一些。

"We wore sport coats to the airport and slacks，" Scott said. "You didnt have to put in a dress code and rule."

“去機場時我們穿的是運動外套和寬松的褲子?！彼箍铺卣f，“沒必要制定著裝令?！?/p>

In the 1990s， hip-hop culture became popular with young adult fashion with its relaxed， baggy and sports-geared clothing. You didnt have to be from the so-called "hood" to be attracted to dressing that way. And it wasnt only black kids wearing the clothes.

1990年代，嘻哈文化憑借休閑、肥大和體育主題，在年輕人中流行起來。無須出身“貧民區(qū)”，你也會被那樣的服裝吸引。那樣穿衣服的不只是黑人孩子。

"I was in the era of when guys， especially rappers， were wasting tons of money， including myself， on extravagant， unnecessary and oversized jewelry，" former NBA player Jason Richardson said.

“那個時代的人，尤其是說唱歌手，把太多的錢花在了奢侈而不必要的珠寶上，包括我?！鼻癗BA球員賈森·理查德森表示。

The majority of NBA season-ticket holders， however， were older， well off and couldnt relate to hip-hop fashion.

但NBA大多數(shù)季票持有人的年齡更大、生活環(huán)境更好，嘻哈時尚無法引起他們的共鳴。

"I guess they wanted people in the arena to feel like they were at a business type of function，" said Warriors center Andrew Bogut， who was a rookie with the Milwaukee Bucks when the rule was implemented.

“我猜他們想讓坐在球館里的人感覺自己在參加商務(wù)活動。”勇士中鋒安德魯·博古特說，著裝令實施時，他還是雄鹿的新秀。

Former NBA player Grant Hill said then-Orlando Magic coach Johnny Davis asked him and teammate Pat Garrity to have a players-only meeting to come up with team rules for the 2004-05 season. The topics included fines for being late or missing practices and games， dress code and more. Hill said the players were in favor of a relaxed dress code.

前NBA球員格蘭特·希爾說，當(dāng)時魔術(shù)主教練約翰尼·戴維斯要他和隊友帕特·加雷蒂召開只有球員參加的會議，制訂2004-05賽季的球隊規(guī)定。他們的議題包括對遲到或缺席訓(xùn)練、比賽罰款，著裝規(guī)則等等。希爾說，球員們希望能有更寬松的著裝規(guī)則。

"Literally， the team voted and it was like， You can wear anything but shorts and sandals， " Hill said. "I was like， Are you guys sure about this？ So we went and presented it to Johnny Davis as coach and he was like， No.

“球隊的投票其實就是‘只要不穿短褲和拖鞋，其他都沒問題?！毕栒f，“我說，‘你們確定？我們把這個拿給教練約翰尼·戴維斯看，他說：‘不行。”

The "Malice at the Palace" brawl between the Indiana Pacers and Pistons on Nov. 19， 2004， in Auburn Hills， Mich.， also contributed to the NBAs decision to implement a dress code. The rule went into effect with the oneyear anniversary of the brawl on the horizon to counter image problems that hampered its then recent history.

2004年1 1月19日，在密歇根州奧本山爆發(fā)的步行者與活塞的“奧本山宮殿斗毆事件”，也是NBA決定推出著裝令的原因之一。著裝令的頒布時間正好在斗毆事件發(fā)生的一周年紀念日，目的就是為了應(yīng)對近年來惡性事件對聯(lián)盟形象產(chǎn)生的不良影響。

Billups was among those who heard the NBAs dress code referred to as the "A.I. rule." Iverson frequently wore hip-hop gear off the court and to games. In 2003， he wore a Milwaukee Bucks jersey and hat to NBA All-Star media availability while playing for the Sixers. He also wore a Michigan State jersey on the bench while sidelined during a USA Basketball Olympic qualifying game. Former Sixers forward Andre Iguodala said Iverson bought several oversized suits to adhere to the dress code.

比盧普斯聽說過NBA著裝令被叫成“AI規(guī)則”的說法。艾弗森經(jīng)常在球場內(nèi)外穿著嘻哈裝備。2003年還在為76人打球時，他穿著雄鹿的隊服、戴著雄鹿的帽子參加了全明星采訪。在美國男籃的奧運預(yù)選賽上，他還穿著密歇根州大的隊服坐在板凳上。前76人前鋒安德烈·伊戈達拉表示，為符合著裝令規(guī)定，艾弗森買了幾套肥大的西服。

"Allen wasnt a fan of it，" said Iguodala， now with the Warriors. "Allen just wanted to be comfortable. He wasnt trying to just be a rebel without a cause. He was like， I just want to be comfortable. I just want to go to the game and play basketball. He didnt want to be uptight or feel restricted.

“阿倫不滿意這個規(guī)定?！爆F(xiàn)在是勇士一員的伊戈達拉表示，“阿倫只想穿得舒服。他不想無緣無故地做一個叛逆者。他的意思是，‘只是想讓自己舒服一些，我只是想打籃球。他不愿意感到拘謹，不愿意被約束?！?/p>

Richardson was playing for the Warriors at the time and said he thought the dress code targeted blacks and the hip-hop generation. He wanted the NBA Players Association to get it reversed."Its funny how you mature and look back at things youve done or said and grow from them，" Richardson said. "At the time， being young， I thought it was a personal attack to most of the guys in the NBA."

當(dāng)時為勇士打球的理查德森認為，著裝令針對的是黑人及受嘻哈文化影響的一代人。他希望球員工會能推翻這個規(guī)定?！爱?dāng)你成熟后，回頭再看自己做過的事、說過的話，看到自己的成長，這很有意思?！崩聿榈律f，“那時候作為年輕人，我覺得那是對大多數(shù)NBA球員的人身攻擊?！?/p>

But there were also black NBA players and coaches who didnt have a problem with the dress code.

但也有不介意著裝令的黑人球員和教練。

"I was old school，" Hill said. "I was already dressed in suits and was trying to look professional."

“我是個老派的人?！毕栒f，“我穿的就是西服，我想讓自己表現(xiàn)得很職業(yè)。”

Scott， then the coach of the New Jersey Nets， also didnt have an issue with the rule.

那時擔(dān)任籃網(wǎng)主教練的斯科特對這個規(guī)定也沒有異議。

Jason Richardson said he thought the dress code targeted blacks and the hip-hop generation. He wanted the NBA Players Association to get it reversed."Its funny how you mature and look back at things youve done or said and grow from them."

賈森·理查德森認為，著裝令針對的是黑人及受嘻哈文化影響的一代人。他希望球員工會能推翻這個規(guī)定?！爱?dāng)你成熟后，再看自己做過的事、說過的話，看到自己的成長，這很有意思?！?/p>

West， however， ignored the rule and continued to wear sweats to games. His wallet faced the consequences. He said the league had fashion police at NBA arenas， and they took pictures and reported players who didnt adhere to the dress code.

不過韋斯特?zé)o視規(guī)定，仍然穿著T恤參加比賽。他因此受到了經(jīng)濟懲罰。他說聯(lián)盟在球館里安排了“時尚警察”，他們拍下照片，舉報沒有遵守著裝令的球員。

"I didnt really change much，" West said. "I got fined a couple times because Id rather be comfortable. My comfort comes first before anybody else."

“我沒做太多改變?！表f斯特說，“我被罰了幾次款，因為我寧愿讓自己感到自在些，我感覺自己舒服最重要?！?p>

And it wasnt just players who embraced hip-hop culture who struggled with the dress code. Bogut said Bucks teammate Toni Kukoc also was reprimanded.

事實上，和著裝令產(chǎn)生了沖突的并不只有接納嘻哈文化的球員，博古特說，他的雄鹿隊友托尼·庫科奇也受到過懲罰。

"I remember Toni Kukoc wore just wore a turtleneck， a [James] Bond type of turtleneck， with a jacket， and he got a warning for it，" Bogut said. "It was crazy. At that point， they were real strict. They wanted collared shirts. They thought he was trying to be demonstrative."

“我記得托尼·庫科奇穿了件高領(lǐng)套頭衫，像詹姆斯·邦德一樣的高領(lǐng)，外面穿了件夾克，結(jié)果他被警告了?！辈┕盘卣f，“這太瘋狂了。那時候他們真的很嚴，他們要求穿帶領(lǐng)的襯衣，他們認為他想公開表達什么?！?/p>

Oklahoma City Thunder guard Russell Westbrook has been lauded for his style and has an endorsement deal with Barneys New York. Lakers guard Nick Young and his girlfriend， singer Iggy Azalea， are Forever 21 models. Warriors guard Stephen Curry had a deal with the clothing company Express last season.

現(xiàn)如今，俄克拉荷馬雷霆后衛(wèi)拉塞爾·威斯布魯克的風(fēng)格廣受外界稱贊，他和紐約的巴尼百貨簽下了協(xié)議。湖人后衛(wèi)尼克·楊和他的女朋友、歌手Iggy Azalea是Forever 21的模特。勇士后衛(wèi)斯蒂芬·庫里上賽季和服裝公司Express簽了協(xié)議。

"Fashion in the NBA has been big for both sides， the fashion industry and the NBA，" Young said. "Its been 10 years since the dress code came out？ Thats crazy. I remember trying to buy a suit.

“NBA的時尚對雙方都很重要，無論是時裝界還是NBA?！睏钫f，“距離著裝令出臺已經(jīng)10年了？太瘋狂了，我還記得自己去買西服的事?！?/p>

"Were professionals. You have to dress the part. But we made it even better. People starting getting more fashion forward."

“我們是很職業(yè)的，你必須穿那樣的衣服，但我們做得更好。人們在時尚方面開始越來越前衛(wèi)了。”

Still， there are other players like West who could still care less.

當(dāng)然，還有像韋斯特這種對此毫不關(guān)心的球員。

"Im still not one of those guys who are going to come here all decked out and then get sweaty，" said West， who was wearing a Spurs sweatsuit after a recent preseason game. "I dont rock like that."

“我還是不能成為那種穿得整整齊齊進場、離場滿身是汗的人?！表f斯特說，最近一場季前賽結(jié)束后，他穿了件馬刺的T恤，“我不穿那樣的衣服?！?/p>